LJ Purchase Help

[BoundlessBasu]

Hi,

Really not sure where to post this, so will put in here.

I have been looking into a TJ or LJ as my first vehicle, and thus this would be my first purchase as well. There's a lot to take in but I have been researching for the past few months into the Jeeps and used vehicles in general. ChrisFix has been a very fun channel to learn from.

No wrenching experience...yet! Need to get a lot of tools too, basing initial kit from a few posts on this forum including this one; https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-tool-kit.2696/page-2#post-45998

Looked into LJ, thoughts on the condition? Anything that stands out as a flag?
It looks good to me, fender rust a little but no big deal on that. Can sand down and repair, does not seem that bad.

https://imgur.com/a/pisUjIQ

PO of last 120 km out of 180k
Last 30k replaced:
Steering stabilizer (what stabilizer?)
Brakes (find out about the replacement specifically, pads/rotors/brake lines/ebrake? fluid replace?)

Notes from owner:
No leaks on seals
Fluids flushed regular, tcase very recent.
No holes on tub
Brought from west coast, wax undercoating every season
Serp belt should be replaced soon before winter
Soft top never unfolded nor back seat, always been stored.
2yr old battery
Radiator good shape, coolant flush every other year

Notes for myself:
* Need to find out what fluids he uses, and when diffs/trans/ps were flushed and replaced.
* Check for any rust on floor pans, tub
* Check for any leaks on driver floor pan from cooling assembly I believe (heater core/water pump?)
* Fill up gas during test drive to test fuel pump? What should I look out for aside from just fuel overspilling?
* Check lo & hibeam/turn signs/washer, cold/heat, blower etc., all interior functions
* Anything else to note for when inspecting? Specific to TJ/LJ's and vehicles in general.
* OPDA/Air Filter/Valve Cover Gasket/Cap/Rotor/Wire/Plugs as preventive maint. (I think RMS has been done but will check when I'm in there anyways).
* Throttle Body, IAC, Thermostat clean/possible replace as preventive maint

Quick sidequestion: LJ's come with Dana 44 Rear 3.73 and LSD in spec right?

From the history it looks well maintained with an appealing price as well, ~$12000 in snow money.
I'm going to take a look at this hopefully later this week and no issues on, can aim to enjoy the last moments of summer with it!

Thanks so much for reading, and hope for continued great advice from this forum

 

[mots]

Hi, we will need some good quality body, frame and other general underbody pics to be able to give any worthwhile advice for you.

Also, just another word to the wise. A lot of sellers in the snow-belt like to say “this used to be a West coast Jeep” or “it’s Southern Jeep”. While it might be true, I’ve found some lying about it. Make sure you check the Carfax to prove where it has likely been most of it’s life. That undercoating can hide a lot of sins, make sure you check under it so you can see the frame and underbody condition real good!

 

[BoundlessBasu]

Will definitely update with more underbody pictures when I go see it this week.

Earlier I was advised to check the interior of the frame around the rear control mounts, oval openings, checking for flaking on the inside. Plan on doing that too. How can I really check frame condition with undercoating applied?

The borescope I bought from Amazon isn't working with my phone so need to return and replace that then will schedule a meet.

 

[L J]

* Fill up gas during test drive to test fuel pump? What should I look out for aside from just fuel overspilling?

Slow fill or pump continually shutting off before full. It's an easy fix, though.

* Check lo & hibeam/turn signs/washer, cold/heat, blower etc., all interior functions

Rotate the multifunction switch stalk (left side) in a small circle and see if the fog light indicator comes on. It could mean the switch is going bad. Sometimes it can be repaired at home if not it's fairly expensive to replace with a MOPAR unit.

* Anything else to note for when inspecting? Specific to TJ/LJ's and vehicles in general.

Buy yourself an inexpensive borescope off of Amazon that utilizes a phone for the screen. Use it to inspect the inside of the frame especially at the skid plate and before the rear wheel arch.

* OPDA/Air Filter/Valve Cover Gasket/Cap/Rotor/Wire/Plugs as preventive maint. (I think RMS has been done but will check when I'm in there anyways).

LJs and TJs of the same year are a coil on plug setup with a coil rail so you won't have a cap, rotor or wires. Throw some XP985 Autolite Iridium plugs in it and never worry about them again. You can get them at RockAuto for ~$1 a piece with rebate: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/autolite,XP985,spark+plug,7212

Quick sidequestion: LJ's come with Dana 44 Rear 3.73 and LSD in spec right?

correct (Rubicon models came with factory air lockers)

Thanks so much for reading, and hope for continued great advice from this forum

good luck and fire away with any other questions or concerns

 

[Chris]

That price is totally worth it IF the frame is rust free.

We need to see pictures of the frame, notable where the transfer case skid plate meets the frame, and where the control arm brackets attach to the frame. Those are the two most common areas for frame rot it seems like.

 

[mots]

Will definitely update with more underbody pictures when I go see it this week.

Earlier I was advised to check the interior of the frame around the rear control mounts, oval openings, checking for flaking on the inside. Plan on doing that too. How can I really check frame condition with undercoating applied?

The borescope I bought from Amazon isn't working with my phone so need to return and replace that then will schedule a meet.

Good, glad you have that covered! The frame is the most important aspect of buying an older TJ and I noticed you hadn’t mentioned it, other than what the owner said. Yeah, a borescope would be best if you can check it out from the inside where it is harder to hide frame issues. I have yet to buy one, but might eventually do so after seeing some reviews. You can also insert your fingers or a long magnetic retriever to see what you can can pull out of the frame. Also make sure you have a good light with you to help with inspection underneath and taking good pictures.

If it has a thick undercoating all over and you can’t see anything, then it becomes an issue for me. Perhaps the owner will let you remove some of the coating, if possible, to inspect closer in the known problem areas. The only good underbody paint or undercoating is what I do choose to apply myself, haha! Anything else is just in the way of seeing the actual condition of the vehicle. Thin coats of rattle can paint is one thing, but if it has a really thick undercoating all over hiding the actual frame condition, and especially if it has some rust on the tub, then I immediately expect the worst! This is just how my mind works since I have seen so many rusty Jeeps around here and what folks do to conceal their rust issues. This is also why I use Fluid Film on my TJ, instead of something that can’t be easilu removed back to the bare metal surface. Great stuff for slowing down the oxidation process, but without raising suspicion of hiding potential problems underneath.