Looking for instructions on changing brake rotors and pads

TJim

TJim

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2019
Messages
1,201
Location
Athens, Greece
Hey everyone,

My front brakes are almost dead. My rotors are warped, and pads are living the last days of their life.

I decided that I want to replace both the rotors and pads on my own. So, can anyone please write down for me all the steps as detailed as possible? Even the obvious ones.

For example:
1) Jack the TJ
2) Remove Tires
3) ETC


Do I have to bleed the brake fluid? Is this a necessary step?

Looking forward to your responses, since I want to do it as soon as possible. Thanks in advance
 
TJim said:
Hey everyone,

My front brakes are almost dead. My rotors are warped, and pads are living the last days of their life.

I decided that I want to replace both the rotors and pads on my own. So, can anyone please write down for me all the steps as detailed as possible? Even the obvious ones.

For example:
1) Jack the TJ
2) Remove Tires
3) ETC


Do I have to bleed the brake fluid? Is this a necessary step?

Looking forward to your responses, since I want to do it as soon as possible. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
No ble.
 
Let's start at your tires off and in the air.

Things you need.
Have a little hanger or big S hook ready. Have a big hammer on the ready....have a big pair of channel locks or brake caliper compressor tool. Screwdriver or small pry bar. Wheel bearing grease. Wire wheel or brush. Brake cleaner.

Spray that whole region down with brake cleaner. Don't get any ricochet in your eyes. It's nasty stuff.

Get a screwdriver or small pry bar.
You're going to stick that in the middle of the caliper and pry towards you. Only a little is needed. You're backing the piston off some to make it easier to pull components off the rotor.

Loosen and remove the caliper bolts from the mounting bracket.

Hang caliper with hook on spring. You don't want stress on the rubber line with the caliper dangling from the rubber hose.

Collapse the caliper with caliper compressor tool or the like. All the way collapsed. Be mindful of the caliper boot.

Remove rotor. If stuck hit rotor face with big hammer. Not near the studs...on the braking surface of the rotors. Smack it good

Discard the old shit.

Remove guide pins. Clean guide pins. If corroded (they shouldn't be) use wire wheel on those as well

Clean all areas the pads ride on the bracket with wire wheel. Bare metal is the goal.

Know this...the more expensive the pad you buy the better it will fit.
Cheap pads often times have too much powder coating on them and or the metal holding the shoe has too much material remaining. People just jam that shit on there and crack a beer saying I just did a brake job.

Make sure your pads are free flowing with the surface they're riding against. If not you will have to clean the areas up so they do.

Wheel bearing grease any spot the pad rides against the mount. You don't have to be liberal with the grease. You don't want it oozing on the rotor.

Grease the guide pins.


Spray new rotors with brake cleaner. Both sides. This removes all the shipping oil on it.

Wheel bearing grease the back side of the new rotor where it mounts to the face of the wheel bearing.

Place rotor on

Install new pads.

Tighten all back up.

Repeat other side.

When you jump in...pump brake pedal until you've got good pedal again. (Taking up the slack in the caliper from collapsing them.)

Now you're ready to bed them if that's your thing or just drive it.

Done.


Go wheeling
 
You don't have to bleed, but you should. If done before you press the pistons in, it will lessen the chance of contamination.
Plus it doesn't hurt to replace some with fresh fluid once in a while.
 
Last edited:
When using brake cleaner, be aware that some leave a petroleum residue which I don't like leaving on the rotor. I don't know about the laws in Greece but states like California where I live limit our access to some brake cleaners that don't leave a residue.
 
I just did a complete brake job, including replacing the drums, rotors and calipers. I also replaced the rear lines that run over the axle (great family owned vendor on Amazon makes them). Full flush of course as well, the PO had green fluid in there. My question- do I need to bed the brakes or is that an old-school thing? One post above says to bed them "if that's your thing"?
 
I know this is an old thread, and I don't know what year TJs came with ABS but on a vehicle with ABS it is recommended to open the caliper bleeder before pushing the piston in since debris tends to accumulate in the caliper and you don't want to push it back into the ABS module.
 
NCLife said:
I just did a complete brake job, including replacing the drums, rotors and calipers. I also replaced the rear lines that run over the axle (great family owned vendor on Amazon makes them). Full flush of course as well, the PO had green fluid in there. My question- do I need to bed the brakes or is that an old-school thing? One post above says to bed them "if that's your thing"?
Click to expand...

Yes. Bed the brakes
 
B1Toad said:
I know this is an old thread, and I don't know what year TJs came with ABS but on a vehicle with ABS it is recommended to open the caliper bleeder before pushing the piston in since debris tends to accumulate in the caliper and you don't want to push it back into the ABS module.
Click to expand...

TJ’s that have/had ABS are a little all over the board. It wasn’t based on year. Someone should check for the module near the master cylinder.
 
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