Lowering the fuel tank

[CodaMan]

I need to lower the fuel tank 3-6 inches so I can install 4 bolts for my new rear bumper. I have a couple of questions before I start:

1) To only lower it a few inches do I need to disconnect the fuel line? Filler neck?

2) The 3 inner bolts are pretty rusty, should they break, how would one go about the repair?

I like to evaluate risks beforehand, so I'm just trying to get things in line before I start.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The top/inner bolts are carriage bolts, I recall them as being replaceable. Spray the heck out of all the bolts ahead of time with Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or Break-Free.

The vacuum pump assembly inside the rear passenger-side corner makes dropping the tank a little more complex, I recall that in my '04 being the larger of the PITAs when I had to drop the tank. I don't recall if they would have to be disconnected to drop it 3-4" but it wouldn't surprise me. As soon as I saw how more difficult my '04 was to drop its tank when compared to my '97, I suddenly hated my '04 just a little more.

 

[CodaMan]

The top/inner bolts are carriage bolts, I recall them as being replaceable. Spray the heck out of all the bolts ahead of time with Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or Break-Free.

The vacuum pump assembly inside the rear passenger-side corner makes dropping the tank a little more complex, I recall that in my '04 being the larger of the PITAs when I had to drop the tank. I don't recall if they would have to be disconnected to drop it 3-4" but it wouldn't surprise me. As soon as I saw how more difficult my '04 was to drop its tank when compared to my '97, I suddenly hated my '04 just a little more.

hmmmm. It's always something

 

[glwood]

I need to lower the fuel tank 3-6 inches so I can install 4 bolts for my new rear bumper. I have a couple of questions before I start:

1) To only lower it a few inches do I need to disconnect the fuel line? Filler neck?

2) The 3 inner bolts are pretty rusty, should they break, how would one go about the repair?

I like to evaluate risks beforehand, so I'm just trying to get things in line before I start.

Just so you know, I had to do this when I installed my Dirtworx rear bumper. I did find out, however, that you don't need to go down 3-6 inches. I just let the tank go down as far as it would sag on its own once the nuts were removed from the bolts that hold the tank skid up. That gave me enough room to fish those 4 bolts and/or nuts through the holes in the cross member behind the tank. Like you, I was planning for the worst. I did everything I could to leave the tank in place, but ultimately had to lower it an inch or so to get a wrench on the bolt heads, which I did manage after all. There was just enough room from the side once the tank was lowered a bit. Also, I did not have to disconnect any lines, wiring, or hoses.

 

[Rob5589]

I just had mine out, 2005. You can probably get away with 3-4" but, disconnecting the fuel line is easy and a good idea. I went too far with mine and broke the pump assembly at the fuel hose neck. Like Jerry said, spray the bolts for a day or two before dropping it. The po of mine had to cut through the skid to get the bolts out. I ended up replacing the skid at the same time as well as replacing all the carriage bolts with stainless steel. The tube on the passenger side that goes to the charcoal canister has more leeway but not a bunch.

At a minimum I would do the fuel filler hose, vent line on the filler neck, and fuel lines. Go slow and see if that will be enough for you.

 

[CodaMan]

Just so you know, I had to do this when I installed my Dirtworx rear bumper. I did find out, however, that you don't need to go down 3-6 inches. I just let the tank go down as far as it would sag on its own once the nuts were removed from the bolts that hold the tank skid up. That gave me enough room to fish those 4 bolts and/or nuts through the holes in the cross member behind the tank. Like you, I was planning for the worst. I did everything I could to leave the tank in place, but ultimately had to lower it an inch or so to get a wrench on the bolt heads, which I did manage after all. There was just enough room from the side once the tank was lowered a bit. Also, I did not have to disconnect any lines, wiring, or hoses.

Nice to know. Hopefully I'm as lucky as you

 

[CodaMan]

I just had mine out, 2005. You can probably get away with 3-4" but, disconnecting the fuel line is easy and a good idea. I went too far with mine and broke the pump assembly at the fuel hose neck. Like Jerry said, spray the bolts for a day or two before dropping it. The po of mine had to cut through the skid to get the bolts out. I ended up replacing the skid at the same time as well as replacing all the carriage bolts with stainless steel. The tube on the passenger side that goes to the charcoal canister has more leeway but not a bunch.

At a minimum I would do the fuel filler hose, vent line on the filler neck, and fuel lines. Go slow and see if that will be enough for you.

Thanks. Every bit of info helps.

 

[CodaMan]

Getting ready to drop the tank and I'm thinking I should replace the carriage bolts. There are 4 bolts at the rear of the tank and 3 at the front. Are they all (7) carriage bolts and are they all the same size (thread and length)?

 

[Rob5589]

Yes, all carriage, all the same size. The forward ones are a pita to feed through. I used a straw to slide over the threads and pull it through, a wrap of wire will work to. If you have a body lift it should be much easier.

 

[CodaMan]

Yes, all carriage, all the same size. The forward ones are a pita to feed through. I used a straw to slide over the threads and pull it through, a wrap of wire will work to. If you have a body lift it should be much easier.

@Rob5589, can they be replaced with the tank only lowered a few inches?

 

[Rob5589]

Oh yea, they are all within reach. The forward ones will be the fun ones.

 

[CodaMan]

Oh yea, they are all within reach. The forward ones will be the fun ones.

Fun? I don't think I believe you.

 

[Mike_H]

How are you guys replacing those forward bolts? Without lifting the body, they are trapped in the crossmember on my 04. I got 2 outta 3 last time I dropped the tank. Figured I'll fix it when I do a body lift.

 

[CodaMan]

How are you guys replacing those forward bolts? Without lifting the body, they are trapped in the crossmember on my 04. I got 2 outta 3 last time I dropped the tank. Figured I'll fix it when I do a body lift.

I haven't done mine yet but I'm interested to know too.

 

[Rob5589]

I used a straw; put the straw through opening, slid the bolt inside straw with a small piece of duct tape to hold, and pulled it through. A small wire wrapped around the threads should work too. Those are the fun ones, @CodaMan

 

[CodaMan]

I used a straw; put the straw through opening, slid the bolt inside straw with a small piece of duct tape to hold, and pulled it through. A small wire wrapped around the threads should work too. Those are the fun ones, @CodaMan

My bolts are on order, so maybe next week. Did you also replace the inserts or whatever they call them @Rob5589?

 

[Mike_H]

Hmm...mine are standard 5/16 -18 carridge bolts. They are held in place with bolt retainers (should be able to get them at an auto parts store). I guess if you fish the wier up through the hole and then between the body and crossmember, you might be able to get the head back through. Clever.

 

[Rob5589]

There are no inserts just the clips like ^^^^ stated. I didn't have clips so I used small rubber bands to hold them in place.

 

[CodaMan]

There are no inserts just the clips like ^^^^ stated. I didn't have clips so I used small rubber bands to hold them in place.

Gotcha, thanks.

 

[Carve]

I used a straw; put the straw through opening, slid the bolt inside straw with a small piece of duct tape to hold, and pulled it through. A small wire wrapped around the threads should work too. Those are the fun ones, @CodaMan

That gets the bolt through, but how do you get a wrench on it to tighten it?