Measuring cut to fit axle shafts

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billyp

TJ Enthusiast
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May 27, 2020
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Colorado
I’m installing an Eaton 30 spline elocker and upgrading to Yukon chrome moly axle shafts. The shafts are cut to fit. I’m not sure since the carrier is different if I can use the old shafts to measure the new ones?

If not should I install the seal, bearing and retainer first and then insert into the axle and measure from bearing race to bearing?

Just worried about destroying a $300 axle shaft by cutting it wrong.

Thanks!
 
billyp said:
I’m installing an Eaton 30 spline elocker and upgrading to Yukon chrome moly axle shafts. The shafts are cut to fit. I’m not sure since the carrier is different if I can use the old shafts to measure the new ones?

If not should I install the seal, bearing and retainer first and then insert into the axle and measure from bearing race to bearing?

Just worried about destroying a $300 axle shaft by cutting it wrong.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
For what axle? Dana 35 with Super 35 kit or a Dana 44? I've not heard of having to cut any axle shafts to fit.
 
billyp said:
I’m installing an Eaton 30 spline elocker and upgrading to Yukon chrome moly axle shafts. The shafts are cut to fit. I’m not sure since the carrier is different if I can use the old shafts to measure the new ones?

If not should I install the seal, bearing and retainer first and then insert into the axle and measure from bearing race to bearing?

Just worried about destroying a $300 axle shaft by cutting it wrong.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Install the bearings, collars and 4 bolt retainer. Insert the shaft into the housing and diff. Note when it bottoms out. Measure from the housing end at some point you can cross reference to the bearing. I'd measure to the race where it bottoms out in the housing end. Add 1/8" to that dimension and hack that much off the end of the shaft. I've done several cut to fit shafts with zero issues. Take a sanding flap disc and put the same chamfer back on the end of the shaft where the cut is so it matches OEM or what you cut off.
 
mrblaine said:
Install the bearings, collars and 4 bolt retainer. Insert the shaft into the housing and diff. Note when it bottoms out. Measure from the housing end at some point you can cross reference to the bearing. I'd measure to the race where it bottoms out in the housing end. Add 1/8" to that dimension and hack that much off the end of the shaft. I've done several cut to fit shafts with zero issues. Take a sanding flap disc and put the same chamfer back on the end of the shaft where the cut is so it matches OEM or what you cut off.
Click to expand...

Blaine, do factory tj shafts need cut for an elocker?
 
astjp2 said:
Blaine, do factory tj shafts need cut for an elocker?
Click to expand...

No idea since at no point where I would install a locker would I also not be installing higher strength shafts. But, given that we don't modify aftermarket stock replacements for the TJ rear 44, I would guess since they fit the same as stock, then probably not.
 
mrblaine said:
No idea since at no point where I would install a locker would I also not be installing higher strength shafts. But, given that we don't modify aftermarket stock replacements for the TJ rear 44, I would guess since they fit the same as stock, then probably not.
Click to expand...

Thanks, just temporary until I get a set of aftermarket shafts.
 
Put some gear paint or grease on the end of the shaft and push it all the way in...if it doesn't fit all the way in that answers one question.

Then pull it out and see how much spline engagement you have.

-Mac
 
Bandsaw works great! Took off just enough on both sides and didn’t have any heat issues. I thought they would be harder than they were and would need to be abrasive cut.

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