Sorry...BRB...shopping cars with the oldest daughter at the moment...
Needed maintenance
- Thread starter VallenMaes
- Start date
The lifter tick could also be a weak/collapsing lifter, or one that's gummed up from a lack of oil changes and such. That would also explain a misfire. I don't know if that was ever a problem on the 4.0, or not. Just an idea. By the way, I'm not sure you mentioned what you have? The 4.0 six cylinder, or a four cylinder? Might make a difference in the diagnosis...(shrug).
OP
Cool. Lots of folks on here with all kinds of knowledge. And yes, the 195 degree thermostat should be the correct one.
Alrighty then...
Checking for vacuum leaks.
This is a time consuming effort. Start at the manifold and pull the connections for each vacuum line coming off of there. The rubber connectors should be at least somewhat pliable. Visually inspect the connector for cracks and wear or damage. When you slide them back on, they should be a snug fit. Visually inspect the lines too. Check for wear and scuffs, nicks and melted spots. Do the lines one at a time. The service manual can be a huge help here. Check the throttle body to make sure it hasn't come loose. Check the IAC to make sure it isn't loose. Check the grounds and connections for the O2 sensors while you're in there as well.
The ECM in a TJ does a really good job of trying to manage the air fuel ratio. But if there is a vacuum leak, or a sensor on it's way south, it will go full rich, or full lean trying to compensate. A full rich condition will cause a rough idle every time because the engine is getting flooded with more gas than the ignition can light off. A cracked exhaust manifold or a bad exhaust gasket can let just enough air into the system to fool the O2 sensors into thinking that the engine is running lean. The ECM dumps more gas in trying to compensate. The reverse of that is an intake leak, the engine IS running lean. A lean mixture is harder to ignite, so the engine stumbles and runs rough from idle all the way through part open throttle. Sometimes, the more throttle you give it, the leaner it gets and the worse it runs.
Hope that helps. Electronic fuel injection is one of the best inventions ever, but it can be a bugger to troubleshoot because the computer tries to cover up a multitude of sins.
Oh, hold off on replacing the thermostat. It may be a fuel mixture issue and not a thermostat issue. 195 is correct, but we don't really need to replace parts that are working.
Ok this is going to be a little expensive but it is worth it. On my 2000 I decided to swap the Head because it is the crack prone one. 150 at the junk yard for 2003 that has been checked out for warps. Not bad. So since it has to be removed to fix the lifter I was going to do them all. However, there was only one that was bad. It had come off the push rod or something like that. Damaged the one lifter. The mechanic had one and replaced it. The cost is in removing the head to get to the lifters. Lifters are cheap.
OP
OP
Just got my plugs. ill be checking the intake gasket, replacing plugs, and if i have enough time im gonna open him up and take a look. Got a buddy i work with who i would trust my life to when it comes to auto mechanics, brilliant really. Also going to rebalance my tires. Things have been a little shaky.
OP
OP
UPDATE!
Changed plugs last night had no shimmy or shake from a miss fire until it ran for about 10 min. Lifter tick is now gone. sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold and it doesnt seem to have a leak. Time for a vacuum check?
Changed plugs last night had no shimmy or shake from a miss fire until it ran for about 10 min. Lifter tick is now gone. sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold and it doesnt seem to have a leak. Time for a vacuum check?
OP
Update!
After pulling into my parking spot back from lunch i can now hear a lifter tick with a second intermittent lifter tick..... no new codes. How do i clear the old ones to see if they come back? I know ive accidentally done it by draining the battery totally dead, but im not really trying to do that again. Im just tired of shaking and listening to a tick at each stop light and its going to drive me bat sh!t crazy if i cant fix this before summer.
After pulling into my parking spot back from lunch i can now hear a lifter tick with a second intermittent lifter tick..... no new codes. How do i clear the old ones to see if they come back? I know ive accidentally done it by draining the battery totally dead, but im not really trying to do that again. Im just tired of shaking and listening to a tick at each stop light and its going to drive me bat sh!t crazy if i cant fix this before summer.
Remove the negative battery cable from the terminal for a few minutes. That should clear it.
OP
...or stop by an auto parts store and have them clear the codes.
Are you sure it's not an exhaust tick? If you're sure it's not, then try an engine cleaner like Rislone or equivalent. Be prepared for lots of oil drips afterwards though. Has your engine been over rev'd or suffered from lack of oil changes?
Are you sure it's not an exhaust tick? If you're sure it's not, then try an engine cleaner like Rislone or equivalent. Be prepared for lots of oil drips afterwards though. Has your engine been over rev'd or suffered from lack of oil changes?
OP
Bounced off the Rev limiter for several, 20 - 30, seconds. Three or four things come to mind for your situation. A bent push rod or a rocker arm stud pulled loose. That pretty rare for a 4.0 Jeep engine. A collapsed lifter. That's not so rare, but not common. If the engine has gunk in it, putting synthetic oil in with it's high detergent content will get crud loosened up. It doesn't take much to clog a lifter and cause it to collapse. Camshaft wear, where it goes through the case hardening on a lobe will cause a tick as well. I was hoping that it was a bad exhaust gasket or manifold bolt. That's pretty cheap and easy. The other stuff, not so much.
OP
@StG58 Ive never bounced off the rev limiter however i do enjoy the occasional drifting obstacles my friends and i set up in the snow.(i know how to drive and control my jeep better in 2H than in 4H or 4L in the snow). That keeps up at pretty high rpms but as soon as i can while continuing to maintain control i shift.
But i Never bounce it off the limiter.
But i Never bounce it off the limiter.
OP
That shouldn't be a huge problem. Not especially good for the overall lifespan but not fatal. You may only get 350,000 miles out of it instead of 400,000...
If it's a lifter, fix it sooner rather than later. If it gets bad enough it will eat a cam lobe. With that being said, it may go just like it is for a good long time. No way to really tell for sure. Look at it this way, the lifter is already gone, probably. The cam is getting pounded by that lifter, even if just a little. I suppose that you could drive it until it dies, and then put a cam and lifters in it.