OEM locker bypass with independent locker switch wiring question

[Grumpy’s Rubi]

I have a 06 Rubicon that I’m looking at doing the locker bypass on, I understand the jumper between pin 1,4&5. I want to install OEM style diff lock switches which I have but every forum and post are adding to OEM switch or as Jerry did running new wires. I’m trying to tap into the OEM wiring and best I can tell on the individual switches if I put pin 3 to the + in and pin 1 - to ground I should be able to put pin 6 load or pin 7 load. This should give me indicator lights on switches and independent locker control without either rewiring or adding any relays as they already exist as installed stock.

Does that sound correct or am I missing something? I don’t want to over think it or cook a compressor or switch. I have looked through FB groups, and other jeep forms as well as the builds and how to’s on here. If I missed the answer to my question I apologize in advance.

 

[PRNDL]

I've done this twice. Once the simple way, and once using relays. There are no issues just using switches between pin 6/7 and ground for independent locker control. It works just fine, but the lights on the switches don't work. Its simple and effective when combined with the "safety" defeat switch to allow lockers under any condition.

Last year, I rewired it all following that Greg Donohoe diagram installing three relays (master, front and rear) and it worked very well. Sri posted a simpler diagram for just the lockers, no master here. I have a separate switch installed to jump pins 1, 4&5 to allow lockers in any t-case position. I tapped into the factory wiring with T-Tap clamp style connectors.

I kept the factory switch for no good reason, but it does still work just like factory. The master switch and safety bypass switches are hidden elsewhere because kids.

Switch lights work when on and the F/R lock lights work just like factory on the dash, best of all worlds. Let me know if you need anything more specific.

 

[Grumpy’s Rubi]

I've done this twice. Once the simple way, and once using relays. There are no issues just using switches between pin 6/7 and ground for independent locker control. It works just fine, but the lights on the switches don't work. Its simple and effective when combined with the "safety" defeat switch to allow lockers under any condition.

View attachment 555520

Last year, I rewired it all following that Greg Donohoe diagram installing three relays (master, front and rear) and it worked very well. Sri posted a simpler diagram for just the lockers, no master here. I have a separate switch installed to jump pins 1, 4&5 to allow lockers in any t-case position. I tapped into the factory wiring with T-Tap clamp style connectors.

I kept the factory switch for no good reason, but it does still work just like factory. The master switch and safety bypass switches are hidden elsewhere because kids.

Switch lights work when on and the F/R lock lights work just like factory on the dash, best of all worlds. Let me know if you need anything more specific.

View attachment 555514

 

[Grumpy’s Rubi]

Thanks, I tried it as I stated and was getting a small voltage even when the switches were off. I tried some various ways with some jumpers I made even used different switches but was not happy with em so went back together with the factory switch and a jumper between 4&5. Works as it should. I looked at the thread you sent and will regroup and give that a try.

 

[LONGJP2]

I want to install OEM style diff lock switches

Be careful running oem style switches in a bank of similar switches (without a master switch).
A passenger or different driver may accidently turn a locker on causing loss of control.

 

[Grumpy’s Rubi]

@PRNDL I’m back at my locker by-Pass project and was wondering if I run the separate locker switches can I pull my OEM locker switch out and repurpose that spot. All I have read is everyone has left the switch in place to fill the slot.
I plan on doing the simple toggle switch with cover only (no relays). TIA

 

[PRNDL]

@PRNDL I’m back at my locker by-Pass project and was wondering if I run the separate locker switches can I pull my OEM locker switch out and repurpose that spot. All I have read is everyone has left the switch in place to fill the slot.
I plan on doing the simple toggle switch with cover only (no relays). TIA

I believe you can remove the factory switch and splice into the harness. Would be simple to test the separate locker switches with the factory switch disconnected before any permanent changes are made.

 

[Camdenst]

I put the master switch inside the center console.

 

[Grumpy’s Rubi]

I put the master switch inside the center console.

View attachment 586925

Did you put separate switches in and remove your OEM switch by any chance? Or did the bypass of the interlock only and add a master switch?

 

[Camdenst]

Did you put separate switches in and remove your OEM switch by any chance? Or did the bypass of the interlock only and add a master switch?

Nope. I left the OEM switch in place and added a master when I did the bypass. I really like the OEM look and getting the other switches to light up was too much. So far I’ve wheeled once since the mod and I just kept the rear locked and toggled the front as needed.

 

[Grumpy’s Rubi]

Finally got the time to do just the simple toggle switch mod for independent locker control. While testing my connections in a quite garage I discovered my front locker pump is just clicking and not pumping, on the good side the rear is good!! As @PRNDL stated you can take the OEM locker switch out once toggles installed and lights well work as before. Any suggestions on what to check on the front pump? I hear a single click like a solenoid or relay and that’s it.