Operation Phoenix

Well back from Sand Hollow. New engine performed flawlessly. Got about 6-8 mpg crawling and running 4-5k rpm in the sand dunes. Got anywhere from 11-13 on the freeway. Generally feels like I've lost about .5 mpg in exchange for more power.

Three trail fixes during the trip. One...rear lockers were not engaging. Took apart the relay box and dash... eventually figured out the metal pin for the fuse holder had slipped out no longer powering the switch triggering the relay. Snapped it in, reseated the fuse and locker fired right up.

Second was several days of messing with adjusting the Steinjager shift cable. It wouldn't shift reliably into 4 low and would pop out violently 3-4 times before settling in. I actually think the lever is hitting my plastic console so I'm planning on adjusting that back a 1/4" if possible. My center console appears to be from a later model TJ.

Third my 25a fused blew on the iBooster circuit. Replaced it with a 35a fuse. Going to move it to the Maxi fuse section of the PDC.

Last fix was on the freeway driving home. Lost three skid plate bolts. Put in the two spares I had, drove home... replaced the spares with grade 8 flange bolts and put the two spares plus three more in my emergency kit.

Very little rock damage. Rear outboard shocks are fantastic. Did some pretty bad hopping climbing some obstacles... guessing that's the black max shocks in the front or me not changing the dial on the rear reservoirs.

Worst damage I did was getting a milkshake in town...they had yellow pylons just under hood height and I turned into one driving out of the drive through. I don't know if that slightly bowed the slider or if it was something else. It definitely caved in the tube slightly in two spots. Rock Hard sliders.

Pulled the exhaust manifold and replaced it with my warranty replacement freshly back from ceramic coating. Noticed I was missing one exhaust flange nut and I must have missed an exhaust header bolt.

Got a DPST switch coming in. The ground interrupt I'm using as a locker safety isn't working. Going to run each of the relay trigger wires through a single switch with seperate indicator lights. I don't like the added complexity but I need a safety.

I also need to take apart the dash because my Midland GMRS isn't sending. Guessing the cheap bulkhead Amazon fitting is bad. I ended up using my Baofeng most of the trip. Also the puck on the back of the handset was off. Nobody in town had a 2mm x 8mm bolt so I ordered one on Amazon and picked it up at a UPS store.

Also the new Bulletproof Mounts wireless charger cradle I got stopped opening automatically on Thursday running the Maze. I emailed Bulletproof and they've already shipped a replacement.

Heated gloves were great for cold morning freeway driving.

Brought extra gas for Oregon and Nevada. 2 one gallon cans that were easy to tuck between my rack and the side of the tub. Ran out of gas once in sight of a gas station. Had to use both cans to make it from Winnemucca to Lakeland.

Very happy with the Jeep.

Probably not going to do any additional mods for at least a year while I pay down the CC.

Would like to do a front coilover conversion. Seems prudent since a coilover is roughly the same cost as a fox shock in stock configuration.

Rear aluminum fenders. And some hooks or slots for my camping grill or a table. Just picked up an aluminum welder that does mig and tig.

Also want to do a cold air intake.

And I want to use the original engine to figure out how to get a Haltech to run the Jeep.

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-Mac

Oh and P.S. fixed the neighbors truck. You're supposed to replace the pads before you're using the pistons in the rotor.

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Resealed the exhaust donut flange with red RTV good to 650 degrees. It was leaking. So tired of that terrible connection. Hoping now that I've glued it together that I don't have to touch it for a couple of years.

Pulled apart my dash. One...to check on my Midland GMRS radio. Wasn't transmitting. Plugging the handset directly into the radio...without the ethernet cable and bulkhead connector...same results. Ordered a new handset for $65 from Midland.

Installed a new DPST locker master arm switch and indicator lights. Previous switch attempted to interrupt the grounds to the relay and failed to function. New switch essentially turns on two separate circuits. So it's wired in series with the relay trigger switch on the dash. I also added two bright LED indicator lights. While the Carling switches on the dash light up when turned on...the light is faint enough that you can't see it in bright sunlight. Also removed the self tappers holding down the oil pressure/temp gauge and replaced them with rivets and slightly angled the gauge for readability. Looked at adding clearance for my transfer case shifter...but it's hitting the metal gate under the console...not the console itself. While I could clearance that...that leads me to think the problem might still be in the adjustment or the transfer case itself.


View: https://youtube.com/shorts/-eJVv6b6dhI?feature=share

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-Mac

-Mac
 
Resealed the exhaust donut flange with red RTV good to 650 degrees. It was leaking. So tired of that terrible connection. Hoping now that I've glued it together that I don't have to touch it for a couple of years.

Pulled apart my dash. One...to check on my Midland GMRS radio. Wasn't transmitting. Plugging the handset directly into the radio...without the ethernet cable and bulkhead connector...same results. Ordered a new handset for $65 from Midland.

Installed a new DPST locker master arm switch and indicator lights. Previous switch attempted to interrupt the grounds to the relay and failed to function. New switch essentially turns on two separate circuits. So it's wired in series with the relay trigger switch on the dash. I also added two bright LED indicator lights. While the Carling switches on the dash light up when turned on...the light is faint enough that you can't see it in bright sunlight. Also removed the self tappers holding down the oil pressure/temp gauge and replaced them with rivets and slightly angled the gauge for readability. Looked at adding clearance for my transfer case shifter...but it's hitting the metal gate under the console...not the console itself. While I could clearance that...that leads me to think the problem might still be in the adjustment or the transfer case itself.


View: %5BURL%5Dhttps://youtube.com/shorts/-eJVv6b6dhI?feature=share[/URL]

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-Mac

-Mac


Great to be hearing from you again, Mac.

🙂
 
Well back from Sand Hollow. New engine performed flawlessly. Got about 6-8 mpg crawling and running 4-5k rpm in the sand dunes. Got anywhere from 11-13 on the freeway. Generally feels like I've lost about .5 mpg in exchange for more power.

I noticed you're running head studs rather than bolts. Is there a particular reason? Just curious.
 
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I noticed you're running head studs rather than bolts. Is there a particular reason? Just curious.

Nope...just new Felpro bolts. Didn't know the provenance of the ones off the XJ block... especially since someone had replaced the pistons once...so I bought new ones.

-Mac
 
Not sure if I missed it. How many miles were on the engine when you rebuilt it?
 
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How do you sleep at night knowing that lives behind the dash?

That gives me anxiety issues :D

90 percent of those wires are essentially bus lines. Every switch needs two grounds, one illumination circuit and a positive feed to run through the switch...and run through a wire back to the relay block.

I probably could and should just daisy chain the wires rather than running them into a pigtail.

Problem is too I've added circuits and rearranged things...so that's added to the mess.

I also made the mistake of individually fusing each of the 12v trigger feeds. Realistically that could run off the cigarette lighter fuse.

Damn thing is it all works. And like @E-Ticket 's solid state relay failure and plenty of stories of failures of modern switch panels...old school just works.

And that sound the switches make is a positive reminder you actually turned something on.

-Mac
 
Not sure if I missed it. How many miles were on the engine when you rebuilt it?

Excellent question. Odometer read 251,000. PO claimed the engine was refreshed and ran strong. I suspect otherwise. I still need to tear down the original one. Love to know the cause of low compression on 3.

I have three theories as to why I lost compression.

One...mouse ate through my air filter and I didn't notice it until day 2 of Moab. Engine ate a lot of trail dust.

Two... smashing in the oil pan and the rods on 1-2 making contact with the girdle.

Three...cracked piston. Folks who have listened to the engine say that's the sound.

-Mac
 
Sold the Sayonara Sahara's engine, my old AX-15, bellhousing, wiring harnesses and PCM to a fella doing a 4.0 swap on his 4 cylinder. Spent the day pulling the engine and transmission. Rust was a bastard.

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-Mac
 
Ok got back from a whirlwind couple of days of volunteer trash pickups on Saturday and Sunday and DJ'd a grad party until 4 am Saturday night. Got some time this afternoon to work on my projects.

First off my TJ got trashed outside of Idahana, OR finding trash for the Brush Beaters OHV club. It was supposed to rain a little around 1 pm and ended up raining all day. Thank goodness for insulated coveralls. Pulled a bunch of stuff out of my Jeep...it was full of rocks and leaves...and wet under the bed rug. My new electric top handle Makita is dead... apparently can't handle the rain.

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Then I messed with steering...tried figuring out why I'm wandering all over the road. Passenger side lower ball joint castle nut was loose. Red loctite, torque to 80 and new cotter pin. And my Hooke Road steering linkage correction bracket was loose. Need to get it up to speed tomorrow and see if that improves things. I have the Sayonara's steering box as a hail Mary.


View: https://youtu.be/wVKKuiW00n8?si=bNPGmaDFG9W3OkI6

Next up separated the 32RH from the Sayonara Sahara's 4.0. Made a nice stack on a moving dolly for possible future swap potential. I can't believe how small the torque converter bolts are.

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Made another stack for the engine. Couldn't get the condenser disconnected and the fuel injector plugs started breaking so I just left them on the rail. All ready for pickup.

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Then I put away DJ stuff and sorted and cleaned tools.

This was four hours of RV dismantling.

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DJ setup.

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Oh and I'm stuck on the plasma table. After a week of YouTube lessons on Autodesk Fusion I got a part I wanted cut out modeled.

Then I found out I had to add the Everlast plasma cutter to Fusion to export to G Code. Part of that was asking the size of the torch head...1 inch...and then an offset...which was zero...then threw an error stating the offset had to be less than the torch size...which it was. Four hours of throwing numbers and researching led me to this is a well known bug that Autodesk has been planning on fixing for at least five years and apparently hasn't. Even tried just drawing a circle and same error.

Really need to make new grapple hinges. And cut a lower valence for my aluminum armor.

-Mac
 
researching led me to this is a well known bug that Autodesk has been planning on fixing for at least five years and apparently hasn't

The autodesk native stuff sucks for 3d printing too. I wonder if you could export for another program (I use lightburn for my laser cutter, but I don't think it does plasma cutters natively)