Long story short for those not following my build thread - I bought an LJ, swapping my build over to it, returning the TJ to close to stock and selling it.
I was thinking I would return to a stock track bar by drilling the 5/8" hole out to 3/4" and installing a tapered insert like what is done to install or reverse OTK steering. I have the Teraflex insert that's split and knurled so it's held in by the clamping force of the taper. Last night I started with the drill but by the time I got 1/8" deep I could tell the drill bit was getting loose in the hole and if I keep going I don't think it's going to be suitable for the insert. So I'm re-evaluating.
I thought about trying an 11/16" drill bit and hoping the extra slop it creates ends up right at 3/4".
I'm aware of the existence of something called a reamer, but Google results were overwhelming. I don't know what type I would need for this, how to use it, or if it's the right solution...a lot of them look like machine tools, not something to chuck into an 18V cordless drill.
Then I started thinking about how I would react as a buyer if I went to put an aftermarket track bar back on it and found a 3/4" hole with an insert. At least one of the welded inserts could be drilled back to 9/16" for a JKS or 5/8" for a Currie, but not the split one.
The springs i have are measuring about 1" of lift in the rear, so I might be ok to use JKS's track bar for 1-3.5" lift, but with stock arms I don't know if I'll be able to set it up to not need 2" of bump stop, which would suck with 1" of lift.
I can't be the first person to have wanted to do this, so what has proven to be the best way about it?
I was thinking I would return to a stock track bar by drilling the 5/8" hole out to 3/4" and installing a tapered insert like what is done to install or reverse OTK steering. I have the Teraflex insert that's split and knurled so it's held in by the clamping force of the taper. Last night I started with the drill but by the time I got 1/8" deep I could tell the drill bit was getting loose in the hole and if I keep going I don't think it's going to be suitable for the insert. So I'm re-evaluating.
I thought about trying an 11/16" drill bit and hoping the extra slop it creates ends up right at 3/4".
I'm aware of the existence of something called a reamer, but Google results were overwhelming. I don't know what type I would need for this, how to use it, or if it's the right solution...a lot of them look like machine tools, not something to chuck into an 18V cordless drill.
Then I started thinking about how I would react as a buyer if I went to put an aftermarket track bar back on it and found a 3/4" hole with an insert. At least one of the welded inserts could be drilled back to 9/16" for a JKS or 5/8" for a Currie, but not the split one.
The springs i have are measuring about 1" of lift in the rear, so I might be ok to use JKS's track bar for 1-3.5" lift, but with stock arms I don't know if I'll be able to set it up to not need 2" of bump stop, which would suck with 1" of lift.
I can't be the first person to have wanted to do this, so what has proven to be the best way about it?
