Pop noise when turning steering wheel

[TJ Hunnicutt]

Are you talking about the pin seen here on the left (from this angle) side of the steering shaft U-joint?

If it is, that's the pin that holds the U-joint to the gearbox shaft collar at the end of the lower steering shaft and SHOULD NOT MOVE AT ALL! If it does, don't drive the Jeep (if at all possible) until you get a replacement lower steering shaft!

About two inches closer to the gearbox is the collar that mounts to the gearbox and it has a bolt that goes through the side. Looking down between the side of the fan shroud and the radiator:

 

[AndyG]

Are you talking about the pin seen here on the left (from this angle) side of the steering shaft U-joint?
View attachment 84648
If it is, that's the pin that holds the U-joint to the gearbox shaft collar at the end of the lower steering shaft and SHOULD NOT MOVE AT ALL! If it does, don't drive the Jeep (if at all possible) until you get a replacement lower steering shaft!

About two inches closer to the gearbox is the collar that mounts to the gearbox and it has a bolt that goes through the side. Looking down between the side of the fan shroud and the radiator:
View attachment 84650

Thanks TJ , that’s the one in the first pic..... Parts are on the way man.

Thank you for posting that and for everyone helping.

 

[AndyG]

Alright , about 30 minutes AFTER I installed the new 600 dollar + borgersen unit , I fixed the crazy pop. Yep.

I thought , well, it does it when you turn the wheel , and that stresses the track bar , so I loosened up a bolt on my lowered track bar mount and the pop stopped immediately .

It wraps the frame and the track bar has some leverage on it.

I will likely weld it .


I realize I am going against regulations running a dropped pitman arm , but since I have a dropped track bar mount also , and the Jeep is a first year Rubicon , Chris says he's going to grandfather me in and let me stay on here,as long as I only perform routine maintenance and dont try to actually fix anything .

I thought that was fair.

On the bright side , my steering shaft had play , so I was glad to replace that and grease the needle bearings too .

 

[mrblaine]

Alright , about 30 minutes AFTER I installed the new 600 dollar + borgersen unit , I fixed the crazy pop. Yep.

I thought , well, it does it when you turn the wheel , and that stresses the track bar , so I loosened up a bolt on my lowered track bar mount and the pop stopped immediately .

It wraps the frame and the track bar has some leverage on it.

I will likely weld it .


I realize I am going against regulations running a dropped pitman arm , but since I have a dropped track bar mount also , and the Jeep is a first year Rubicon , Chris says he's going to grandfather me in and let me stay on here,as long as I only perform routine maintenance and dont try to actually fix anything .

I thought that was fair.

On the bright side , my steering shaft had play , so I was glad to replace that and grease the needle bearings too .

I almost don't like pointing out the obvious but a lesson is here for others to hopefully learn from. If you go back to post number 2 and then your reply to that suggestion, that would have been the perfect time to remind everyone as to how your rig is set up. Had you said that the stock mount was fine and it had a dropped mount on there as well, I would have said that it is very common for those to move around a tiny bit and pop since there are no sleeves in the frame and it is hard to keep the bolts tight since they just squeeze against the frame. We see most of them have been welded in place to stop the popping which makes them a real bitch to remove when folks decide to correct the geometry and do it right. Garbage in, garbage out. We are only as good as the info we get to figure stuff out.

 

[AndyG]

I almost don't like pointing out the obvious but a lesson is here for others to hopefully learn from. If you go back to post number 2 and then your reply to that suggestion, that would have been the perfect time to remind everyone as to how your rig is set up. Had you said that the stock mount was fine and it had a dropped mount on there as well, I would have said that it is very common for those to move around a tiny bit and pop since there are no sleeves in the frame and it is hard to keep the bolts tight since they just squeeze against the frame. We see most of them have been welded in place to stop the popping which makes them a real bitch to remove when folks decide to correct the geometry and do it right. Garbage in, garbage out. We are only as good as the info we get to figure stuff out.

You guys were great and my apologies for not giving the complete details... I was all over the place trying to sort it out.

Are there any positive or negative consequences to going back to a stock bracket and pitman arm if I get the correct length track bar such as I jks adjustable?

My Jeep drives so good that I'm reluctant to make any drastic changes.

 

[mrblaine]

You guys were great and my apologies for not giving the complete details... I was all over the place trying to sort it out.

Are there any positive or negative consequences to going back to a stock bracket and pitman arm if I get the correct length track bar such as I jks adjustable?

My Jeep drives so good that I'm looking to make any drastic changes.

It really doesn't matter which way you go with the exception of matching the parts. Drop pitman needs a drop bracket. Stock pitman uses a stock mount. The only thing to worry about is if you decide that you want to change to a flipped tie rod or get some shocks that allow more uptravel or want to lower the ride height some. Typically the dropped set up is run with lots of lift height. That's the only way it can work reasonably well.

Just points to consider before you grab the welder.

 

[AndyG]

Thank you that makes complete sense.