Rubicon locker bypass

DavidBT

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I attempted to do the Rubicon locker bypass according to the Ken White method. I followed his directions and in his picture he did a ground jump from switch to switch and then to the main ground wire, which I duplicated. Then I connected the switches to the corresponding violet/ blue wire and the corresponding violet/green wire. I haven't taken it for a test run yet, but the rear locker locks in in 2wheel, 4wheel high and in 4lo. The front locker only locks in 4lo and only after pushing the factory switch. I'm terrible with electrical anything and tried to follow the directions as best I could. If only have the rear locker in any drive mode I think I'll be happy having the rear locker when I want it. Any ideas with the front locker?
 
X2, using two dedicated switches is the way to go. You'll be able to control either locker independent of the other.
 
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I'm not that good with electrical. I've tried to find something that Jerry has written up, but for the most part he just talks about wiring a 12 volt light. Not in my DNA. Thanks for suggestions. I think I will put everything back together today and go test it out on a dirt road near by.
 
This might help, it's basically how I wired mine. You cut the wires off the locker air pumps and provide each one with a switched source of 12 volts. They don't draw much current so 14-16 gauge wiring is fine. I used standard heavy-duty on-off switches and then installed those two orange flip-up covers. A buddy that understands the basics of electrical circuits even a little bit should be able to help you get this working.

Capture.webp






Locker Switches 2.webp


Rubicon Locker Switches.webp
 
I'm not that good with electrical. I've tried to find something that Jerry has written up, but for the most part he just talks about wiring a 12 volt light. Not in my DNA. Thanks for suggestions. I think I will put everything back together today and go test it out on a dirt road near by.
On top of Jerry's post, most relocate their pumps to the engine bay but if you're not doing a tummy tuck then the pumps can be wired from their current location on top of transfer case skid plate. It's a very easy job to accomplish and you'll enjoy the new way of locker activation.
 
Thanks Jerry. That helps a lot. Since I now have the switches in place, if I find someone who can help I will definitely use your system. This is why this forum is awesome 👍
 
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On top of Jerry's post, most relocate their pumps to the engine bay but if you're not doing a tummy tuck then the pumps can be wired from their current location on top of transfer case skid plate. It's a very easy job to accomplish and you'll enjoy the new way of locker activation.

I have been thinking about doing the pump relocation at some point. Thanks
 
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Here's a picture of a lockers wiring out of the pump. (not mine)
The pink and green are terminated as shown, the two red wires are joined together and are fed after your 12v fuse & switch. The black wire is your ground wire. Fuse should be installed close to battery for each locker pump and not like this picture below.
Lastly I took the plugs I cut from the pumps, sealed the wires and plugged them into their previous stock location to keep dirt out of the plugs.


Locker Pump.webp



I mounted my pumps on the inner drivers side fender as well but mine is installed under the mounting frame for protection.

20210126_114837.webp
 
Here's a picture of a lockers wiring out of the pump. (not mine)
The pink and green are terminated as shown, the two red wires are joined together and are fed after your 12v fuse & switch. The black wire is your ground wire. Fuse should be installed close to battery for each locker pump and not like this picture below.
Lastly I took the plugs I cut from the pumps, sealed the wires and plugged them into their previous stock location to keep dirt out of the plugs.


View attachment 403199


I mounted my pumps on the inner drivers side fender as well but mine is installed under the mounting frame for protection.

View attachment 403202
I'm going to have to issue you a WTF citation for excessive cleanliness. Two more and you'll have to kiss Blaine's feet and genuflect. :eek: :ROFLMAO:
 
Then I connected the switches to the corresponding violet/ blue wire and the corresponding violet/green wire. I haven't taken it for a test run yet, but the rear locker locks in in 2wheel, 4wheel high and in 4lo. The front locker only locks in 4lo and only after pushing the factory switch.

Somehow you did not make a good connection to the front locker (V/DB) wire; or the switch to switch jumper.
Or it's a bad switch.
Obviously, the front locker still works (as intended) with the factory switch.
 
Somehow you did not make a good connection to the front locker (V/DB) wire; or the switch to switch jumper.
Or it's a bad switch.
Obviously, the front locker still works (as intended) with the factory switch.

I think you're right about the connection. I took it out on a local dirt trail today and the rear locker worked in all three TC gears. Since I really only need the front locker for serious off-road trails, I think I'll be happy with the outcome.
 
I think you're right about the connection. I took it out on a local dirt trail today and the rear locker worked in all three TC gears. Since I really only need the front locker for serious off-road trails, I think I'll be happy with the outcome.

Just an update on my locker bypass. My neighbor was going to help me do the bypass per @Jerry Bransford as we were going over the wiring that I had done, I noticed that I connected to the VT/LB wire. I switched over to the VT/DB wire and all is right with the world now. Thanks for your suggestion of a bad connection.
 
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