Iam having an issue with my Jeep wandering. I am constantly sawing at the steering wheel. It’s not bad but more a nuisance.I just had the vehicle safetied so the front end is good. I purchased this Jeep with limited mods but unfortunately they were done by the owner prior to the guy I bought it from so he didn’t know to much about it. I tightened up the steering box but this didn’t make a differerance. It has a 1 1/2” body lift and has 33” tires which are brand new. This is my first Jeep I have owned. Is this normal having such a narrow and short wheel base. If not has anybody had this problem.
Sawing steering wheel (Jeep wanders)
- Thread starter Tinker
- Start date
Have you done an alignment recently?
[Removed inaccurate statement regarding toe]
Second thing to check is how much play there is in the steering. While stopped with the engine off, rock the steering wheel back and forth. There should be a small amount of backlash, but if it is excessive, it could cause issues.
3rd would be to crawl under and start checking joints. In particular you need to focus on the track bar ends, the tie rod ends, and any other steering joints.
You should also jack it up and check ball joints and wheel bearings. Any play in either of those may cause a wandering issue. If play is found, those will need to be replaced ASAP so your entire wheel doesn't come off on the highway.
[Removed inaccurate statement regarding toe]
Second thing to check is how much play there is in the steering. While stopped with the engine off, rock the steering wheel back and forth. There should be a small amount of backlash, but if it is excessive, it could cause issues.
3rd would be to crawl under and start checking joints. In particular you need to focus on the track bar ends, the tie rod ends, and any other steering joints.
You should also jack it up and check ball joints and wheel bearings. Any play in either of those may cause a wandering issue. If play is found, those will need to be replaced ASAP so your entire wheel doesn't come off on the highway.
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Thanks for these recommendations. No the alignment has not been checked. With the engine off and my hand at 12 o’clock in either direction before I feel any resistance. When do I know when I have tightened up the steering box enough. The allanhead stud in the middle of the 5/8” nut is flush with the top of the nut.
Sorry. “With the engine off and hand at 12 o’clock I can move steering wheel about 2” in either direction before I feel resistance “
jeepndogs
TJ Enthusiast
Caster is actually what centers the wheel. And to adjust the steering box properly you would actually need to pull it off the Jeep and do it on the bench. Too low of caster will cause what you are describing so will worn suspension components. Google dry steer test and have someone help you do that. I would avoid making any other additional adjustments to the box.
We'll be most interested in your caster angle and toe-in angle from your upcoming alignment check. Those are the two angles that affect how well your vehicle tracks on the highway.
Even lifted Jeeps can be safe and enjoyable to drive . Be thorough ...Jeeps are featherweight vehicles really , often fitted with larger tires than the manufacturer designed them for ...search “dry test” and “dropped pitman arm” here and you will be on the path to Jeep Steering 101 mastery.
I think the pitman is not the factory arm. It has a bout a 3 to 4 inch drop. Does this cause issues. Should I put a factory arm back on.
You don't need a dropped pitman arm unless your track bar has a drop bracket on it.
For what it's worth, my front suspension is in good working order. But I do find running 33x12.5x15 inch tires, the wider tire does lend itself to some correcting. Having a light short wheel based solid front axle vehicle, with wide tires = more steering corrections. My TJ tracks pretty darn straight with zero bump steer or death wobble. This is my first Wrangler though, and the more experienced may add input to support or negate my findings.
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I just got finished replacing all the steering links under my TJ. I did it one piece at a time to save some coin. I had the very slightest of movement at the rod ends. On a full size truck it would be a complete non-issue. But every little bit added up to a HUGE difference. It was vague and didn't track terrible, but now it is amazing. One finger through the worst pot holes. And this with me doing the toe adjust and no real alignment
It is very easy to quickly think to tighten up the steering box, but unless you really know what you are doing you are probably going to over tighten and do more harm than good in the long term. ANY slight movement in a rod end means replacement time. Good luck. I really enjoyed working on such an easy to reach system.
It is very easy to quickly think to tighten up the steering box, but unless you really know what you are doing you are probably going to over tighten and do more harm than good in the long term. ANY slight movement in a rod end means replacement time. Good luck. I really enjoyed working on such an easy to reach system.
A dropped Pitman arm on a TJ, when the driver's side track bar mount has not be lowered an equal amount to work with it, can definitely cause a big problem called 'bump steer'. If your driver's side track bar mount is stock, that dropped Pitman arm should be replaced with the OE factory Pitman arm asap.
The Pitman arm and driver's side track bar mount must match. Both must either be stock/non-dropped, or both must be dropped. Mixing dropped and undropped causes bump steer on the TJ.
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