Steering / suspension a budget crunch

[GASnBRASS]

My '98 TJ has all original steering, track bars, and control arms and it's all worn out. The jeep is stock height, 33's with high fenders, and the driveline is improved and gtg.

Option one was upgrade everything to Currie, JKS, and Rokmen stuff but then sticker shock: it's adding up to well over $2000. The other problem is I've read how the aftermarket track bars and steering upgrades don't always play nice with a stock height TJ.

Option two is Moog track bars and steering parts (with the ZJ tie rod mod) and some replacement factory arms for around 1/3 the cost (about $700 total).

Is option one overkill for a stock height TJ with 33's?
Is option two throwing good money away on cheap parts?

 

[Chris]

Option one isn't going to work for a stock height TJ. Aftermarket track bars and the Currie Currectlync all specifically state that they are designed to work on vehicles with over 2" of lift. Sure, you could put them on a stock height vehicle, but you're going to run into all sorts of issues.

If it was me, this is what I would do:

Crown HD steering kit (includes new tie rod and drag link)
Crown Factory Replacement Control Arm Kit (with bushings)
Crown Front Track Bar (with bushings)
Crown Rear Track Bar (with bushings)
Spicer 706944X ball joints

That would bring it back to factory new. Obviously I would recommend OE Mopar parts, but most of those parts are no longer made, so Crown is going to be the next best choice.

 

[Rob5589]

Option 2 or what Chris listed would be my choice.

 

[DizJeep]

I have to ask, with no lift, do you ever find your 33" tires scrubbing the fenders (or flares)? If so, you might consider a minimal (2" or so) lift which would likely include replacements for most or all of the parts causing your current problems (verify track bars though, as they tend to not be include in many low-rise kits). Just a thought.

 

[GASnBRASS]

I have to ask, with no lift, do you ever find your 33" tires scrubbing the fenders (or flares)? If so, you might consider a minimal (2" or so) lift which would likely include replacements for most or all of the parts causing your current problems (verify track bars though, as they tend to not be include in many low-rise kits). Just a thought.

I'll have metalcloak fenders on it, so no need for a lift. I'd prefer to keep the LOG low and the road manners tame. If I ever was to lift it in the future, it would only be an inch or two at most.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I'll have metalcloak fenders on it, so no need for a lift. I'd prefer to keep the LOG low and the road manners tame. If I ever was to lift it in the future, it would only be an inch or two at most.

The right size suspension lift doesn't raise the COG enough to worry about. New Jeepers are usually overconcerned with their COGs after having read about how prone to rollovers Jeeps are... except that is old information that has not been true since the Wrangler YJ came out. Older CJs had a narrow short wheelbase and were indeed easier to roll if you weren't careful. So after the news and lawyers got rolling on that information, Jeep introduced the longer and wider wheelbased' YJ. Old outdated information is hard to kill.

And with the right suspension lift and shocks, road manners are just fine with a suspension lift. I tow my pop-up tent trailer (about 1800 lbs.) behind my TJ with its 5" of lift (4" SL and 1" BL) and 35" tires through winding tight twisty mountain roads all the time without issue. It handles fine.

Don't believe everything you read, there's absolutely zero reason a TJ with a suspension lift can't handle well and drive just fine on the highways and mountain roads. Poorly conceived lifts, clueless owners who modify their Jeeps without knowing what they're doing, lift their Jeeps stupid-high (like over 5") are going to have problems... most of us don't do those things so we don't have problems.

And just for grins, here's a Jeep that forum member @mrblaine built for a customer. I don't recall its lift height but in having seen and wheeled with it, I'd guess no less than 4" and probably more like 5". Notice how far it is tipped over without rolling? That indicates a properly installed suspension/body lift without a high COG.

I shot the below photo while having the pleasure of wheeling with it one day out in Johnson Valley on, I believe, its first run. The last pic below is in its final configuration.

 

[GASnBRASS]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I've had this TJ for 15 years and it's been stock most of that time. I was always wary of a lift cause it seems to open a can of worms with unintended problems and handling issues. If I did get a lift it would be an OME setup, but I figured the MC fenders would be enough clearance to remain stock. I've been doing a mild build-up over the past few years and the costs have been adding up:

$1200 - rebuilt HP30 with chromoly shafts
$2500 - new Dana 44 with Ox locker and chromoly shafts
$1200 - clayton and rokmen skids for engine/tcase/gas tank/rockers/corners/steering/radiator
$2600 - new factory frame
$1000 - replacement body stampings
$1600 - front and rear metalcloak fenders
$1200 - wheels and tires
$600 - sye and driveshaft
$800 - misc upgrades

I've dumped $12K into this project already, and doing a lift, arms, track bars, and improved steering is gonna run another $3000. To be honest, the wife is on me to finish the jeep this summer, but with a baby and associated expenses plus some medical bills and debts we are trying to pay off, the expendable income for things like the jeep are just not there anymore. I'm weighing all my options at this point, but the money situation is like running out of steam with 3 miles left in the marathon run. I guess worst case I just reuse the old stuff and replace it a couple years down the road cause I'd hate to spend 7-800 on basic aftermarket parts if they are just going to fail or get replaced in a couple years.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That's a lot of upgrades to only have 1.5" more ground clearance, which is due to your 33" tires. If you're wheeling on trails tough enough to require 33" tires, my opinion is your TJ needs more ground clearance than what it has and that is only possible with a suspension lift.

Upgrades like the HP30 and Dana 44 were in my opinion premature with only 33" tires. And why did you install the SYE kit without a suspension lift? SYE kits and CV driveshafts aren't normally required or installed until the Jeep has a minimum of a 3" to 4" suspension lift.

With no suspension lift and only 33" tires, your existing build is puzzling to say the least. Did a shop recommend those upgrades?

 

[GASnBRASS]

No shop was involved. I want a driveline stronger than what I need, so I ditched the stock LP30 and Dana 35 (3.07 gears) for stronger axles with the proper gearing for 33's and got a deal on the alloy shafts years ago. I have a clayton belly skid, which raises the T-case about an inch, and some 1" taller TJ rubicon take off springs and 1/2" spacers to clear my previous 31's. So my T-case output and rear diff pinion have shifted a few inches vertically from each other. Rather than putting in a MML and TC drop I opted for the sye. Overall I've gained 4" of extra clearance at the center skid over stock. But most of these upgrades were when I was a bachelor, gotta love all the disposable income when you're single!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Overall I've gained 4" of extra clearance at the center skid over stock.

But not at places like the gas tank, oil pan, frame, etc. A suspension lift to raise them all up 3-4" would make a major impact on how well your Jeep would do on more difficult trails like your 33's are capable of. No need to be afraid of suspension lifts on a TJ, the COG is not the issue newer Jeepers think it is. As illustrated by the above photo of Jon's Viking Rock Yacht.

 

[GASnBRASS]

That's true, it's not as much clearance everywhere else. At this point my budget is gone so I'm trying to do the best I can with as little as possible.

 

[JMT]

I think a SL would really make your Jeep. You've done stuff that would be way down the line for me, except the 33's. If you have the mulah, go for the OME and call it a game...If you already have good shocks that will work with that lift (IF) then just get the coil springs and the rear track bar bracket and the 10mm coil spring spacers. You can do that for $375. Or if you don't have shocks that will work then get some of the new Rancho 5000's (can't remember the number) for a couple hundred bucks and the coil springs and that's $575. Basically I'm saying you can do the OME lift without paying the $900 if you choose another shock combination

 

[Mike_H]

The suspension lift is on top of the fact that he needs all new control arms and track bars. Honestly, I'd drive it if you can, and replace them later. The stock components have lasted this long...what makes you think that the new replacements will wear out in two years?

 

[bobthetj03]

You make no mention of replacing springs/shocks, so my vote is get MOOG ZJ steering, the Crown factory style CA's and drive the damn thing.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Bumping an old thread with a couple quick questions. I too am about due for a steering and suspension refresh. I'm running a stock set-up with no plans for a lift. Don't plan to run anything bigger than 30x9.5x15 either.

Is there any problem with not doing your control arms all at the same time? I was thinking I'd do the lowers first, then uppers at a later date as they seem to maybe be more time consuming.

I want to swap the track bars or at least their bushings too at some point in the future. Any issue with doing one first, then the other later?

Lastly, for the ZJ tie rod upgrade, is it worth it to just try and do ball joints at the same time while that stuff is partially out of the way? I'm going to either buy Moog parts myself or just order the Crown HD kit for a full refresh. I've seen the video on replacing ball joints and it seems like it would make sense to do all that front end work at the same time.

 

[Quigley]

I’d do the arms in pairs at least.

It’s okay to replace the trac bars at different intervals. Or at least I did years ago and I didn’t die or feel the sky was falling.

When I did my ballpoints. I bought the ballpoint removal tool from amazon. I replaced my axle ujoints and my unit bearings while I was there and since they all come off to get to the ball joints and had 130,000 miles at the time. I did the ZJ tie rod and steering stabilizer while I was at it since it was off anyway. I like tackling things sections at a time and it made sense to me.

These tools make it easier. You can probably find a better deal at harbor freight for some of them. If you have a bench vice you’ll be able to use the ball joint clamp to remove your driveshaft u joints so they come in handy. Along with some liquid wrench , a BFH, and 1/2” impact you should be set.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Thanks this is really helpful, my goal is to do bottoms first, then uppers. Track bar seems to be just straight up bolt on so I guess do that as budget allows. My father-in-law has just about every tool I could ever possibly need so I'm good there but it's helpful to remember what I'll need.

Good info on the ball joints, any chance you can confirm what you used (manufacturer or #) for the unit bearings? I don't really know much about those parts yet. U-joint thread has info on spicers to use I know...

 

[Quigley]

I used Timken unit bearings. Amazon had them has them for around $70. Parts geek is another good resource. Spray everything you are going to remove down a week before hand with kroil (Napa or amazon) or liquid wrench. You might want to spray it several times over the week before you start. Everything you plan on replacing spray down.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Hey thanks again for this info - I'm about to go for all lowers I think. I want to use CK series Moog rather than the R series so I'm buying 4 of the Moog CK660203 "front" lower control arms for front and back. As far as I can tell, there's no difference between front and rear but I've only found one post that says it's fine to use those for all 4 lowers.

Since I'm just replacing stock arms, there's no reason I can't just use 4 of those right even though they're listed for front right?

 

[Quigley]

Front lowers are the same as the rear lowers. You could always just get bushings and press them in if your arms are in good shape which would be even cheaper.