Subwoofer rumbles when changing CD tracks

Hey, thanks very much.

Head unit has a meter on it, and it reads 11.8V when turned on without the engine running, and 14V immediately after starting the engine. It's relatively cold here right now (40s and 50s), and I haven't run the Jeep in 24 hours.

As for the sleeve, I like that idea, but I don't understand it yet. When the subwoofer is turned down, I don't hear any of these sounds. So it doesn't seem like the sounds are getting into my speaker wires in the first place, to cause interference in my subwoofer wires. Or am I misunderstanding how you think these co-bundled wires are messing with each other?

Hey, thanks very much.

Head unit has a meter on it, and it reads 11.8V when turned on without the engine running, and 14V immediately after starting the engine. It's relatively cold here right now (40s and 50s), and I haven't run the Jeep in 24 hours.

As for the sleeve, I like that idea, but I don't understand it yet. When the subwoofer is turned down, I don't hear any of these sounds. So it doesn't seem like the sounds are getting into my speaker wires in the first place, to cause interference in my subwoofer wires. Or am I misunderstanding how you think these co-bundled wires are messing with each other?

When the volume is on low it can still produce the interference, you will not hear/notice the interference. Try unbundling all of your wires, keep them separated, and listen for any improvements.

You are combining the power/signal/electrical wires so I do think that could be the root cause.

Any ideal on capacitor to recommend

Always liked T Spec

https://www.tspeconline.com/product/V6-1-5DDC
 
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Just for reference, I recently installed a new amp & a powered sub in our '03, to go along with the upgraded head unit that I installed about 6 months ago.
I now have a significant buzz in the speakers that I had not heard previously (likely excluding the radio as the source).
My experience (along with a bit of recent research) suggests that I have a ground loop, and/or ignition noise from the alternator.
I have a relay that turns on the hot wire for the amp & sub with the ignition, (as well as the trigger wire from from the radio).
My ground wires are connected under the center console, but likely has a different potential compared to grounding directly at the battery. This difference in potential is what is known as the ground loop, which can cause noise on the power wire & cause a static hum or buzz through the speakers.

My plan is to install noise suppression on the power wire, along with routing a new ground wire for the amp & sub directly to the battery.

Nice, thanks. I think I've ruled out the possibility of a ground loop on mine, but I'll be eager to hear what works out for you.
 
I'd probably try a 50v 250uf electrolytic. That type is polarized so make sure you connect it that way. Yes it's only a 12v circuit but potential noise spikes will be higher voltage.

Also are any of the components set to auto select the inputs? If so I'd change that and set it manually to the correct type of input.

Thanks Jerry. Ok, will do. And if I understand correctly, this will eliminate any higher-voltage noise spikes, but will not interfere with any of the music, of course?

And no, the input selection on the PS-8 is manual, and is set to "low", since I'm using RCA cables from a low power sub channel on the back of the head unit.

Thanks again.
 
Thanks Jerry. Ok, will do. And if I understand correctly, this will eliminate any higher-voltage noise spikes, but will not interfere with any of the music, of course?

And no, the input selection on the PS-8 is manual, and is set to "low", since I'm using RCA cables from a low power sub channel on the back of the head unit.

Thanks again.
Won't affect music so long as the capacitor is placed on the DC power wires leading to the amplifier and not on the speaker wring.

No guarantees it'll help since my 250uF size choice was a gut feel. It'd take an oscilloscope to see the actual noise causing the rumbling so its frequency could be determined so proper engineering math could be performed to actually calculate its uF size.
 
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