The driveline: not liking what I see

[Capt'n]

Winter is coming on and I'm starting to think about Jeep projects in the shop.... I've been looking underneath my 2003 TJ Sport X at the stock driveline condition for several years now (both shafts and all the U Joints) and I certainly don't like what I see. Sure looks like a bucket of rust underneath. I've never had any issues with vibrations or otherwise. I'm just wanting all that pitted, ugly rust to go away and the thought was that replacing the driveshafts and (whatever else is needed) might be the way to go. Or maybe just taking a Grinder to is all and cleaning it up? This Jeep is not my primary off road rig, (just an around towner) so I don't need anything "beefier" than the OEM, but I'm not opposed to upgrading parts. I've never delved into this area of wrenching but I'll learn the how, but what I do need is a shopping list of quality parts & brands that I are highly recommended that I will need to order to have on hand to do the replacement... Also, any comments based on the photos of what I need to or should remove / replace would be appreciated. Photos are ordered front to rear.

 

[AndyG]

Well Barnacle Bill, Evaporust is a good option, but don’t confuse cosmetics with performance-

What really matters is the front shaft cardan and ujoints don’t fail- it is near catastrophic for a TJ, and then the rear.

You can steel brush them and paint while they are off.

Spicer X joints are the way to go.

Some of factory joints are teflon injected - you need a torch to get them out. Be good to watch some videos.


Aye Aye,
Andy

 

[Capt'n]

Well Barnacle Bill, Evaporust is a good option, but don’t confuse cosmetics with performance-

What really matters is the front shaft cardan and ujoints don’t fail- it is near catastrophic for a TJ, and then the rear.

You can steel brush them and paint while they are off.

Spicer X joints are the way to go.

Some of factory joints are teflon injected - you need a torch to get them out. Be good to watch some videos.


Aye Aye,
Andy

Well I’m a fan of both…. Cosmetics & performance…. So my take away from your comment is…
* I should look at replacing the front and rear cardans
* And replace U Joints Qty 5 Spicer ‎5-1310X
2 for the front & 3 for the rear shafts. All are the same?

 

[AndyG]

Well I’m a fan of both…. Cosmetics & performance…. So my take away from your comment is…
* I should look at replacing the front and rear cardans
* And replace U Joints Qty 5 Spicer ‎5-1310X
2 for the front & 3 for the rear shafts. All are the same?

I can’t remember the part numbers but I’m going to tag @Jerry Bransford

He could quote them in his sleep- if he slept.

If they are stock only the front has a double cardan

If the jeep has any miles and you don’t know the history and you’ve got the money, it’s not a waste of money to go through the drive shafts if you plan to keep it.

 

[Capt'n]

I can’t remember the part numbers but I’m going to tag @Jerry Bransford

He could quote them in his sleep- if he slept.

If they are stock only the front has a cardan

If the jeep has any miles and you don’t know the history and you’ve got the money, it’s not a waste of money to go through the drive shafts if you plan to keep it.

I think that full replacement is the way I should go. The Jeep only has 78,000 on it and but was "born and raised" back east and it appears that road salts have taken a toll on the shafts / joints. I was looking into either Adams or Toms shafts. I assume that the shafts come with the U-Joints already in place. But, I don't have clue about the "cardon". Also, the rear differential is leaking fluid around the "Yoke?". Its running down the differential and around the U Joints and is flinging oil against the upper tub and exhaust.... Any thoughts on what I need to add to my to do list regarding this? Photo doesnt show the oil leak very well.

 

[AndyG]

I think that full replacement is the way I should go. The Jeep only has 78,000 on it and but was "born and raised" back east and it appears that road salts have taken a toll on the shafts / joints. I was looking into either Adams or Toms shafts. I assume that the shafts come with the U-Joints already in place. But, I don't have clue about the "cardon".

You are thinking right all the way- the cardan is the big connection in the front shaft that has 2 joints close together- the design allows a drive shaft not to need 2 opposing angles to cancel out elliptical vibrations.

It’s been my experience if you’re not going to do the work yourself you can probably buy the new shafts about as affordably -

And yes- at that mileage the joints can he dried out- I did two axle u joints day and one of them was completely dry in a Tj that had 85,000

 

[deadbeat son]

Also, the rear differential is leaking fluid around the "Yoke?". Its running down the differential and around the U Joints and is flinging oil against the upper tub and exhaust.... Any thoughts on what I need to add to my to do list regarding this? Photo doesnt show the oil leak very well.

View attachment 463935

That would be your pinion seal that needs replaced.

 

[Capt'n]

That would be your rear pinion seal that needs replaced.

Ok, Thank you... I just watched a couple of of You Tubes on how to replace them and I will add that to the list!

SO, on the front differential... Is this the Cardan? Marked with the red arrow.

 

[Capt'n]

What about "This" joint coming out of the rear of transfer case? There is the rusty "Donut" and the booted joint fits into the transfer case.... What are their names?

 

[freedom_in_4low]

What about "This" joint coming out of the rear of transfer case? There is the rusty "Donut" and the booted joint fits into the transfer case.... What are their names?
View attachment 463945

The donut is a harmonic dampener. It's basically just a mass that dissipates vibration from the drivetrain before it gets passed up into the transfer case and onward.

The booted joint is called a slip yoke. Inside that you'll find an externally splined output shaft from the transfer case that the internally splined end of the driveshaft slips onto.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Ok, Thank you... I just watched a couple of of You Tubes on how to replace them and I will add that to the list!

SO, on the front differential... Is this the Cardan? Marked with the red arrow.

View attachment 463941

Negative, that's just a standard "single cardan" u joint. The double cardan is the big assembly where the front driveshaft meets the transfer case. It has two u joints in close proximity, joined by an H-yoke and a centering yoke. The centering yoke is another serviceble joint which is what people are telling you to replace to maintain the double cardan assembly.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Well I’m a fan of both…. Cosmetics & performance…. So my take away from your comment is…
* I should look at replacing the front and rear cardans
* And replace U Joints Qty 5 Spicer ‎5-1310X
2 for the front & 3 for the rear shafts. All are the same?

Yes the driveshaft u-joints are all the same for all TJs except for the Rubicon model, they're all 1310 size so the Spicer 5-1310x would be a great choice.

In stock TJs there are three 1310 u-joints on the front driveshaft and two on the rear.

For the axle shafts I'd go with the Spicer 5-760x. Both the Spicer 5-1310x and Spicer 5-760x are direct replacement u-joints that are stronger and more durable than what the factory installed.

 

[Capt'n]

Yes the driveshaft u-joints are all the same for all TJs except for the Rubicon model, they're all 1310 size so the Spicer 5-1310x would be a great choice.

In stock TJs there are three 1310 u-joints on the front driveshaft and two on the rear.

For the axle shafts I'd go with the Spicer 5-760x. Both the Spicer 5-1310x and Spicer 5-760x are direct replacement u-joints that are stronger and more durable than what the factory installed.

Thanks Jerry for the specific info. Much Appreciated. I think based upon the amount of time / effort it will take trying to clean up those stock front & rear drivelines, that replacing them with a couple of “stock” Tom Woods would be a worthwhile upgrade. Any advice concerning the Yokes on the differentials and on the front / rear ends of the transfer case? Should I just pull them and put in new yokes while I’m at it? Or try to salvage the originals? All I’m seeing online is “crown automotive” replacements for the yokes. Any other options out there?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The existing yokes should be fine. If you are ordering new driveshafts from Tom Wood you can specify that they use the Spicer 5-1310x u-joints which are a better choice than their brand of u-joints. They have built 4-5 driveshafts for me, each with Spicer u-joints.

 

[Capt'n]

The existing yokes should be fine. If you are ordering new driveshafts from Tom Wood you can specify that they use the Spicer 5-1310x u-joints which are a better choice than their brand of u-joints. They have built 4-5 driveshafts for me, each with Spicer u-joints.

Thanks for this… I have read several of your posts concerning Tom Woods shafts and the use of Spicer joints. I will follow that lead

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks for this… I have read several of your posts concerning Tom Woods shafts and the use of Spicer joints. I will follow that lead

By the way, and this is a minor point, it's actually Tom Wood, of Tom Wood's Driveshafts.

 

[JustDandee]

I can’t remember the part numbers but I’m going to tag @Jerry Bransford

He could quote them in his sleep- if he slept.

allow me a slight off topic, comment For Top Gear fans.

• Some say he never sleeps as he is up all night memorizing TJ FSM manuals
• Other say he has a Only Fans page filled with Jeep Porn
• around he we just call him Jerry, the Jeep whisperer!

Ps… I maybe taking medication.