2.5 clutch issues

High Line

High Line

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2018
Messages
70
Location
Tulsa, OK, USA
I have a 97 TJ with the 2.5 4 banger. I've had it for almost three years now, and for the whole time, the clutch has always been on it's way out, but I've nursed it along for as long as I could. This past Winter it started something odd, and I figured that I'm probably not the first person this has happened to on here. On take off, most of the time it shakes some or just slips. When I shift into 2nd, it's fine. I shift into 3rd and when I'm at speed above 2000 rpms, if I lean into it very hard the engine just free revs, clutch slippage. When I shift into 4th, it's even more sensitive above 2000 rpm. When I'm at speed, if I touch the clutch pedal with even the slightest pressure, the engine immediately free revs. In V8 cars with manual clutch forks, you can obviously adjust the clutch engagement point, but this is the first vehicle I've ever owned with a clutch slave and master.

1. Is there anyway to adjust the throw on the slave cylinder? I'm kind of afraid that my pedal is "riding the clutch" and never fully engaging.

2. I was going to just replace the clutch, but don't want to prematurely wear the new clutch if the slave is not adjusted/working correctly.

3. I'm out of work right now so I don't have any wiggle room on funds for this, but I don't want to waste time with cheap parts. Are the Luk clutches and kits good? I thought about getting an OEM Zoom from Summit Racing. What about the EFT brand kits on Amazon?

4. I think I read somewhere on here a while back that the flywheels on these suckers are not exactly flat so you can't just get the flywheel resurfaced. I guess that means I'm buying the flywheel as well?

5.what fluid would the trans and transfer case take? I guess I may as well replace that fluid while I'm down there.


Thanks in advance for the help,
Doug
 
mine does the same thing with a 4.0. I'm planning on changing it over the holidays. only does it taking off in 1st gear the shaking i'm talking about, mine doesn't slip. LUK is the only brand i've seen recommended here. full kit with flywheel is $230 on ebay
 
You may need to either bleed or replace the master/slave unit. I recently replace the clutch and flywheel on my 2.5 with Luk units. Some go with a National throwout bearing as the one that comes with the Luk is a plastic casing. I stuck with the plastic as I don't put a ton of miles on my rig. I watched a couple Youtube videos on both the bleeding and clutch install, but don't couldn't find the link. Here is a link to a replacement master/slave unit:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...+lXKNK3SpZBJ7CWzi+lGHS1KhlbPw6nqjp3dcpldTXg==

The clutch job is pretty easy if you have the right tools and a trans jack. I would recommend a good flywheel holder, I got a cheap short one and it slipped and knocked me right in the forehead.
 
Worn and/of contaminated clutches often chatter on take off. There is no adjustment being its hydraulic, it backs off until there is no pressure on the TO bearing. If air is in the system and it heats up enough it might cause some pressure n the TO bearing but unlikely in your case, it sounds plain old worn out. Yes, LUK clutches are very good. I put one in my 91 a few years back and have used them in several trucks without fail. The LUK kit for your jeep is under $100 on Rockauto. Not a hard job, just lots of stuff to unbolt ect. A perfect project while your on a mini vaca.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I was thinking about ordering a Zoom clutch as well as a Centerforce throw out bearing from Summit Racing. This after reading the TO bearing comparison done in another thread. My little 2.5 is a gutless turd so I know it doesn't need something like the full Centerforce kit for 400. I just don't want to have to go back in there for any reason.
 
High Line said:
Thanks for the replies guys. I was thinking about ordering a Zoom clutch as well as a Centerforce throw out bearing from Summit Racing. This after reading the TO bearing comparison done in another thread. My little 2.5 is a gutless turd so I know it doesn't need something like the full Centerforce kit for 400. I just don't want to have to go back in there for any reason.
Click to expand...

with the LUK you won't have to go back in for a long time ! Our LUK kit for a 4.0 came with the metal TO bearing...so you might order it 1st and see what you get.
 
Stick with the tried and well-proven Luk clutch kit. It'll last, if driven without continuous stupidity, over 200k miles. Mine was still in excellent condition when I did a preemptive change at 162k miles, it was barely worn. And that was with regular abuse that caused the clutch to smoke on a semi-regular basis, this is one of those times in my previous TJ. Yes that is clutch smoke.

0a50a5c0.jpg


And the clutch hydraulic system is not adjustable, it either works or it doesn't. When it fails you replace the master and slave cylinders as a unit, they come pre-assemble, pre-filled, and pre-bled and ready to be bolted into place which is an easy bolt-on job.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Stick with the tried and well-proven Luk clutch kit. It'll last, if driven without continuous stupidity, over 200k miles. Mine was still in excellent condition when I did a preemptive change at 162k miles, it was barely worn. And that was with regular abuse that caused the clutch to smoke on a semi-regular basis, this is one of those times in my previous TJ. Yes that is clutch smoke.

View attachment 373015

And the clutch hydraulic system is not adjustable, it either works or it doesn't. When it fails you replace the master and slave cylinders as a unit, they come pre-assemble, pre-filled, and pre-bled and ready to be bolted into place which is an easy bolt-on job.
Click to expand...

Ok. Great! The Luk 05-901 has a metal TO bearing.


Jerry,
I think I read somewhere you said the flywheels on these are not flat. They have a curvature so you should just buy a new one when doing a clutch. Did I remember correctly?
 
High Line said:
Ok. Great! The Luk 05-901 has a metal TO bearing.


Jerry,
I think I read somewhere you said the flywheels on these are not flat. They have a curvature so you should just buy a new one when doing a clutch. Did I remember correctly?
Click to expand...
That is correct, the surface has a very mild dome shape that would be removed by most machines used to resurface flywheels. The factory simply says not to have its surface resurfaced for that reason. But I really doubt your flywheel needs replacing, they are rarely damaged enough for that. When I removed mine at 192k miles it was still in perfect condition, I couldn't even see any wear marks. At the most, if it has a bit of glazing on it, just use a mild grade of sandpaper or emery cloth to remove any glazing that might be present.

And good decision on the Luk kit.
 
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