Top dead center for OPDA job

97' 4 Popper

Opened a Can of Worms
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I am changing the opda on my 2006 TJ. I noticed the upperslide on the opda has some play in it, does that make any difference?

Do I just make sure the pin can go through or should the pin be in the middle of the zone of play on the top slide?
 
I am changing the opda on my 2006 TJ. I noticed the upperslide on the opda has some play in it, does that make any difference?

Do I just make sure the pin can go through or should the pin be in the middle of the zone of play on the top slide?

Sorry no one got back to you. This OPDA issue has been beat to death and only the 2004 to 2006 owners really care about the issue.

There is always some play in the reluctor wheel. While the pin holes aligning is a start place to find TDC you verify you an exact TDC at the crank also before installing the OPDA with the alignment pin in place. If you can't get the OPDA to fully seat you have to use a screw driver the reach down in the block and turn turn the oil pump so the slot in the oil pump drive aligns with the ODPA shaft.

Hope that helps.
 
My original factory cps sensor wont come out on either end the oil pump or the wiring harness. I tried kroil and a hairdryer for weeks now.
 
Post some pictures. Thanks

Okay heres a picture. not sure if it makes any difference at all. But the sensor going into the oil pump is impossible to remove. The bolt is only in there to stop the tab from snapping as I attempt to pry it out. The plug going to the harness is the best bet but then I have to use a crown sensor. Honestly I'm ready to ditch this pos tj for good and never look back.

20220903_122145.jpg
 
Did you put kroil on the cps electrical plug? and bust off //2 the opda cover instead of taking the screws out? The cps connector looks like the locking piece is in.:)
 
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Did you put kroil on the cps electrical plug? and bust off //2 the opda cover instead of taking the screws out? The cps connector looks like the locking piece is in.:)

You were right, the locking tab wasn't going out far enough and it just now decided it wanted to, by hand no less. I had been messing around with it for forever now with a small flathead clicking it back and forth. I thought if it was locking it was unlocking too.

Yea the torx bolts stripped out within 5 seconds of me using a t25. I know you're not supposed to use kroil but it worked on some of the other electrical plugs that gave me trouble like for the gas tank and 02 sensors. I spray them down with electrical cleaner and let them dry before "re-energizing".

I'll update on how the crown sensor works if it does at all.
 
You were right, the locking tab wasn't going out far enough and it just now decided it wanted to, by hand no less. I had been messing around with it for forever now with a small flathead clicking it back and forth. I thought if it was locking it was unlocking too.

Yea the torx bolts stripped out within 5 seconds of me using a t25. I know you're not supposed to use kroil but it worked on some of the other electrical plugs that gave me trouble like for the gas tank and 02 sensors. I spray them down with electrical cleaner and let them dry before "re-energizing".

I'll update on how the crown sensor works if it does at all.

Make sure you can loosen the unit locking tab bolt on the block, its ln a hard place to get at and fiddly to get back in if you have big hands.
 
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Make sure you can loosen the unit locking tab bolt on the block, its ln a hard place to get at and fiddly to get back in if you have big hands.

I have already gotten that out, I had just placed it back in to prevent the tab from snapping.
 
Okay heres a picture. not sure if it makes any difference at all. But the sensor going into the oil pump is impossible to remove. The bolt is only in there to stop the tab from snapping as I attempt to pry it out. The plug going to the harness is the best bet but then I have to use a crown sensor. Honestly I'm ready to ditch this pos tj for good and never look back.

View attachment 356724

First thanks for the pictures. I see you have the pin in the reluctor wheel 👍. At this I would remove OPDA and and just cut the old CSPS out if you want to save it.

If all else fails I understand there is company with a prototype OPDA that will use the same sensor as the crank which is readily available. The additional benefit being that you will only need carry one sensor to cover both the crank and cam should either fail on the trail.
 
First thanks for the pictures. I see you have the pin in the reluctor wheel 👍. At this I would remove OPDA and and just cut the old CSPS out if you want to save it.

If all else fails I understand there is company with a prototype OPDA that will use the same sensor as the crank which is readily available. The additional benefit being that you will only need carry one sensor to cover both the crank and cam should either fail on the trail.

What do you mean by cut the old CPS out?
 
What do you mean by cut the old CPS out?

I would just install the new crown OPDA and sensor and see if it works. If not then use a grinder or Dremel tool and cut the OPDA assembly away from the sensor, cleanup the sensor OD and install it in the new OPDA.
 
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I would just install the new crown OPDA and sensor and see if it works. If not then use a grinder or Dremel tool and cut the OPDA assembly away from the sensor, cleanup the sensor OD and install it in the new OPDA.

Gotcha. I thought I was the only one who had to get savage with their old bucket TJ. :devilish:
 
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It seems like everything has been running fine for a few days now knock on wood, I revved it past 3k no problems. I will update if the crown sensor fails.