Torsion bar link replacement

Upstater

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Messages
70
Location
Upstate SC
03 Wranger Sport, stock. I had a huge clank noise going into driveway and it was both torsioj bar links. Had my neighbor drive and I could see movement between link and bar.

Easy fix. Rented a ball join separator (pickle fork) when I bought the links.

You need a Torx 55 on lower connection to remove bolt. Remove top bolt. I just beat on bolt until the link fell out. If you have a gear poller, you can just push it out.

Put new link in. It goes only one way. I put bottom bolt in finger tight to line up. Tighten top nut until ball joint begins to spin. Put the fork between the bottom of the torsion bar and the top of the ball joint. Mine still had play, so I just lifted the handle like a pry bar while tightening nut. Once the ball joint seats a little, you can remove the fork and the nut will seat the bolt and you can torque nut. Tighten lower bolt and it's done.

I got links with grease fittings. Original links were bone dry and caused the failure. Easy fix. About 1.5 hrs total.

20170426_082055.jpg
20170426_085637.jpg
20170426_085954.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob5589 and Chris
Just a quick note here.
On my 98, the T55 Torx bolt and nut WOULD NOT BUDGE. A 1/2 inch impact gun did not even move them. I had to use a cutting wheel on an air powered grinder to cut them off. The replacement links had two different inside diameters on the lower mounting holes. The holes needed to be reamed so the bolts would fit through.
Be prepared, sometimes these are not a simple remove and replace.

YMMV,
KenR955
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris