Any suggestions as to why my 2005 TJ keeps having front track bar frame ends go bad? Jeep has 4” of lift and uses a stock track bar with the axle end hole drilled in a slightly different location to center the axle. The Jeep only sees highway use and is wearing out the frame ends in less than 5k miles. The original lasted for years and the last 3-4 have came from RockAuto or a local Oreillys part store. Could it be that the aftermarket ones I have been buying are junk? I’d gladly buy a Currie or JKS to fix the issue but don’t want to just throw parts at it if there is an underlying issue. Any ideas?
Track Bar Frame End
- Thread starter Bootheel Boy
- Start date
How is it going bad? Excessive play, rattling, etc.?
Is the frame side trackbar mount hole tapered or straight drilled? It’s possible someone drilled it for an aftermarket trackbar, meaning a stock style one would move around far too easily
Is the frame side trackbar mount hole tapered or straight drilled? It’s possible someone drilled it for an aftermarket trackbar, meaning a stock style one would move around far too easily
It’s tapered. When doing a dry steering test the track bar frame end will move up and down 1/8 inch or more while the nut on top and threaded shaft it is attached to stays in place with no movement. The tie rod end keeps getting sloppy inside.
Do you have a drop pitman arm or drop trackbar mount?
Do any significant off-roading?
Issues with death wobble?
Increasing lift can increase the stress on the joint due to the increased angle of the rod.
Personally, I would spend the cash on a Currie and forget it if you have 2.5”+ of lift. Beyond that, there’s probably something at play.
Edit: saw you said 4” of lift. I would pony up for a good quality trackbar. Certainly cheaper than getting into a wreck due to loss of steering.
Do any significant off-roading?
Issues with death wobble?
Increasing lift can increase the stress on the joint due to the increased angle of the rod.
Personally, I would spend the cash on a Currie and forget it if you have 2.5”+ of lift. Beyond that, there’s probably something at play.
Edit: saw you said 4” of lift. I would pony up for a good quality trackbar. Certainly cheaper than getting into a wreck due to loss of steering.
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06TJ35's
TJ Addict
No dropped pitman arm or drop bracket. Guess it’s time for quality track bar. The rear track bar has been replaced once. It’s a stock rear track bar with a bracket. Would you replace it now or wait until it shows signs of wear?
06TJ35's
TJ Addict
With 4” of lift you really need a SYE and a double cardon driveshaft if you don’t have that already. Along with adjustable rear trackbar and a trackbar angled bracket.
Edit: I read you have the bracket so all you need is a adjustable trackbar if you don’t have Sye and DS already.
Since it's had continual issues, you need to see if the tapered end is damaged before you do anything. Remove the track bar, spray it with wd 40 up in there or silicone, and put rock hard water putty in it with a screw sticking out to remove it.
When it cures, mic it and mic a new track bar. They will let you mic one in the store before you buy.
At this point you have a reference, and even if the mount needs replaced, you will be happier with a better track bar than stock.
Of course, I don't know how happy you are now, so I'm not sure how this will end up. You may go from depressed to mildly depressed, but that would be an improvement.
When it cures, mic it and mic a new track bar. They will let you mic one in the store before you buy.
At this point you have a reference, and even if the mount needs replaced, you will be happier with a better track bar than stock.
Of course, I don't know how happy you are now, so I'm not sure how this will end up. You may go from depressed to mildly depressed, but that would be an improvement.
I think I’m going to order a Currie front track bar. Anyone suggest where to buy from? I’ve found them anywhere from over $400 to $376 on eBay. I’ll wait a little before ordering the rear.
Got my Currie track bar delivered and preparing for installing it this weekend. Didn’t see any instructions in the box but have read them online. I never saw any mention of using Loctite. Would you use it on the frame end bolt or axle end bolt? If so red or blue? I’m leaning towards using blue just as an extra measure against vibrations loosening it. I will have to borrow a torque wrench. When using it to set the frame end to 125lbs would the torque wrench be used on the bolt side or the nut side? I believe it would be on the bolt and never on a nut. Was taught years ago to always tighten the bolt side. Sorry for my ignorance on the subject I’ve never used a torque wrench. This Currie track bar is beefy and looks to be extremely well made.
I’d be surprised if you could get a socket on the nut side of the frame bolt. Torque it wherever is convenient, which will probably be the bolt side. If I recall correctly, the frame side is drilled out to 5/8”. Verify that diameter before drilling though.
Loctite is a good idea. Use the removable kind. You might have to remove it in the future to grease or rebuild the joints, and you may have to remove the axle side any time you pull out the springs or remove the axle.
Loctite is a good idea. Use the removable kind. You might have to remove it in the future to grease or rebuild the joints, and you may have to remove the axle side any time you pull out the springs or remove the axle.
Got my track bar in. Made a huge improvement in handling. I was chasing a rattle in the rear and it appears my upper rear control arms may be the issue. I bought new Moog uppers from rock auto and had them installed last year. Should there be a 1/8 gap between the metal bushing and the axle end mount? I can slide them side to side slightly on the bolt. It also appears the bolt hole in the axle end uppers are bigger than the bolt which allows some looseness that way as well. I will try to include a photo of the gap between bushing and mounts. Is this correct? I can’t tighten them down enough to close the gap
That doesn't look right, the gap should close pretty easy. I just did my rear control arms, different type, but had no trouble getting the bracket tight against the metal sleeve. Looks to me like yours are going to rattle around in there.