Trying to avoid chasing the wobble

I just don't want to end up chasing my tail and I don't want my tires to rub after I put the other wheels on. After reading the responses, I'll check out or find someone who is experienced with the issue to check out the front end and see if they come up with something better than the steering stabilizer. The lift kit from DPG wasn't cheap either so I wasn't sure how much the price difference would be for the axles if they sold me some take offs. If the wobble wasn't present, I would likely not change from stock suspension (at most the OME lift). I'm no longer trying to run 33 or larger tires.
 
I just don't want to end up chasing my tail and I don't want my tires to rub after I put the other wheels on. After reading the responses, I'll check out or find someone who is experienced with the issue to check out the front end and see if they come up with something better than the steering stabilizer. The lift kit from DPG wasn't cheap either so I wasn't sure how much the price difference would be for the axles if they sold me some take offs. If the wobble wasn't present, I would likely not change from stock suspension (at most the OME lift). I'm no longer trying to run 33 or larger tires.
Do whatever makes you happy. It's your jeep. If you want a steering dampener than get one or 2. Lol Or new axles or a lift with 33's. I'd be willing to bet the average car repair shop can get rid of DW. They've done it for me before. It's been tie rods ends/ drag link ends. And a new steering shock. :) not everyone is going to share your vision.
 
I assume you're talking about the DPG ultimate supreme lift ( not sure on the actual name) but they one with control arms. That runs what, about 2500 bucks? Swapping in a set of jk axles will be much, much more. I'm only guessing, but 7500, 10,000 dollars. It's a ton of work for little to no benefit, if you just want to run 32" tires. The factory axles are fine, even the much maligned Dana 35. You might need to regear them, but JK axles will most likely have that same problem.

If you only want to run JK wheels and tires, you just need a little 3/4" spacer lift, and the wheel adapters. I did that for a while. There really isn't enough room to disconnect and wheel it, but there is enough for daily driving, dirt roads, FSR, etc. I think I spent less than 150 bucks getting these wheels and tires on. I had just a touch of rub on my control arm, easily fixed buy not cranking the steering wheel all the way.
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That's the lift I was referring to and I didn't realize the axle swap would be that expensive. I have 1.5" adapters for the wheels and was afraid of rubbing on the control arm. Would adjusting the bump stop prevent that rubbing? It sounds like after I get the wobble figured out re-gearing, a lift, and a new set of tires (if I change wheels) will be the way I go. Thanks again for your advice. Oh, and that's a nice looking Jeep you have there!
 
That's the lift I was referring to and I didn't realize the axle swap would be that expensive. I have 1.5" adapters for the wheels and was afraid of rubbing on the control arm. Would adjusting the bump stop prevent that rubbing? It sounds like after I get the wobble figured out re-gearing, a lift, and a new set of tires (if I change wheels) will be the way I go. Thanks again for your advice. Oh, and that's a nice looking Jeep you have there!
Don't think you'll get any rub with 1.5 inch adapters...I barely had any with 1.25 adapters. You don't adjust bump stops to fix tire rub on the control arms. You would pull the steering stop bolts on the knuckle, put a washer or two under the nut, and screw the bolt back in (once you see it, that description will make sense).

That lift it's a bit much for 32s...I'm running basically the same thing (factory control arms though) and my wheels and tires that looked so good with 3/4" lift....looks a bit silly now, IMHO. The tires aren't wide enough, or they don't stick out enough. Not sure, but I'm changing them out for true 33s with some AEV Pintler wheels.
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