Upper rear shock bolts

[StG58]

Alrighty then. New shocks and springs are going in the SE momentarily, so the ritual of spraying the mounting fasteners with a good penatrant was going to start. How in the world do you get to the upper rear shock nuts to spray them down? Can't even get my hand in there to feel them, let alone see them.

 

[Ahoragi]

Sit in front of the tire and follow the shock up to where it mounts (visualize it since the frame is in the way). Lift the plastic fender right above the frame and peekaboo, nuts.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

You can't see the nuts but a good penetrant like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or Break-Free will work its way up the bolt threads into the nut if you spray it & the bar pin area liberally. Don't waste your time spraying WD-40 there, that's not worth a crap as a penetrant.

And IIRC, you may be able to get some spray onto the nuts from the side in the gap/opening that the upper rear body mount puck sits in. The upper rear body mount is physically very close to the upper shock mounting bolt area.

 

[Ahoragi]

You can't see the nuts but a good penetrant like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or Break-Free will work its way up the bolt threads into the nut if you spray it & the bar pin area liberally. Don't waste your time spraying WD-40 there, that's not worth a crap as a penetrant.

And IIRC, you may be able to get some spray onto the nuts from the side in the gap/opening that the upper rear body mount puck sits in. The upper rear body mount is physically very close to the upper shock mounting bolt area.

Actually you can, Jerry. Just pry up the plastic above the frame and spray away. You need the long tube on the nozzel to reach the other nut.

My picture sucked cuz I couldn't get the big ipad in close enough. I need more lift. LOL


I second what Jerry said about Kroil. I've been using it for the past ten years or so and it's amazing stuff.

 

[StG58]

Thanks Jerry. I went out and poked at it some more, and it appears that if the plastic fender wells are removed, there may be a bit better "view" into that area as well. This TJ is bone stock and unmolested, so I get to deal with 17 years of accumulated corrosion, crap and rust. It looks like new jounce bumper cups are in order for the rear as well. $41 a pop unless the local u-pull-it has a wrecked TJ or ZJ.

 

[StG58]

Sit in front of the tire and follow the shock up to where it mounts (visualize it since the frame is in the way). Lift the plastic fender right above the frame and peekaboo, nuts.

Nice! Thanks a bunch Ahoragi. The picture always helps, me anyway.

I've got a shop and an air impact lined up as well as a good helper.

So, how about some further, semi-related advice from the experts? Would now be a good time to throw the 1" body lift in there?

Edited to add: So, I went out and poked at it some more, and Ahoragi's advice is right on. A little pushing and prodding and hey bingo! Nuts! They don't even look that ugly from the top side. Just normal Jeep corrosion.

Thanks again guys, appreciate it.

 

[rooster4]

Stg58, I was able to use Ahoragi's and Jerry's advice after i broke the bolts off. After soaking for a few days, I was able to use needle nose vise grips and remove the broken bolt by turning it in the same direction as if i was tightening the bolts from underneath. It was a slow process but by moving the plastic just enough to get to them i was able to get to them to soak and then turn. Hopefully you have yours out without breaking, but just in case wanted you to know that it is possible and i did not have to drill and tap.

 

[Chris]

Awesome news! Just goes to show that sometimes slow and steady gets the job done.

 

[qslim]

I found that it also helps to cut off the dust cover.