Broke upper rear shock bolts!

I lifted my body, cut the welds with a Dremel, and bashed them out. Welded some bolts in to replace them. I was doing a body lift at the same time, so it made sense. If you run carpet, @derekmac's method would work well.
I did the same. If I had my body lift on when I broke one of the upper rear bolts I would have been able to attack the problem from underneath. I used a hole saw and cut an oval. Cut the welded nut and bolt off with a diamond cutting wheel on my Dremel. Inserted a new bolt and nut and that was that. Then I bought a small piece of sheet metal at Home Depot and cut it to fit. Primed it and placed it over the hole and glued in place with gutter seal. It is under the carpet so not really a big deal. Pu plenty of anti-seize on all bolts, nuts etc.
 
If I remove the wheel well/fender liner would I be able to get access to the welded nut with a Dremel and cut it from there?
 
If I remove the wheel well/fender liner would I be able to get access to the welded nut with a Dremel and cut it from there?
Actually not even close, the fixed nuts are in the frame member between the tops of the axle arches. I found it quite easy to punch the nuts out from below with a pneumatic air hammer with a blunt tip. Literally 3 seconds to punch it out. Also easy to slip a new nut in with a finger tip.
 
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Actually not even close, the fixed nuts are in the frame member between the tops of the axle arches. I found it quite easy to punch the nuts out from below with a pneumatic air hammer with a blunt tip. Literally 3 seconds to punch it out. Also easy to slip a new nut in with a finger tip.
Did you drive the nut off the frame by hammering a broken stud struck in the nut from below frame member or by hammering the nut directly from the top side? I can't see how to get to the nut from the top with either cutting the tub or dropping the fuel tank.
 
Actually not even close, the fixed nuts are in the frame member between the tops of the axle arches. I found it quite easy to punch the nuts out from below with a pneumatic air hammer with a blunt tip. Literally 3 seconds to punch it out. Also easy to slip a new nut in with a finger tip.
I did mine the exact same way when they broke.
 
I found it quite easy to punch the nuts out from below with a pneumatic air hammer with a blunt tip.
Did you drive the nut off the frame by hammering a broken stud struck in the nut from below frame member or by hammering the nut directly from the top side? I can't see how to get to the nut from the top with either cutting the tub or dropping the fuel tank.
You do it from below like Tj4jim said.:)
 
Actually not even close, the fixed nuts are in the frame member between the tops of the axle arches. I found it quite easy to punch the nuts out from below with a pneumatic air hammer with a blunt tip. Literally 3 seconds to punch it out. Also easy to slip a new nut in with a finger tip.
I too have used this method. 👍🏼. Air hammers have saved me on many projects over the years.
 
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Actually not even close, the fixed nuts are in the frame member between the tops of the axle arches. I found it quite easy to punch the nuts out from below with a pneumatic air hammer with a blunt tip. Literally 3 seconds to punch it out. Also easy to slip a new nut in with a finger tip.
Ok. I was able to use a Dremel and cut some of the nut, but the cutting wheel on the dremel is not wide enough and access to them from below doesnt allow me to cut it completely off. It kinda looks like I could get better access with the liner off, but I'll take your word for it before I tear it up. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to Harbor Freight for an air hammer and chisel tip.
 
Stupid broken bolts. I may have gotten a little carried away with the Dremel...;)
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Broke a shock bolt not surprisingly. I saw someone on here say to just twist the head of the shock, and drill two new holes instead of attempting to reuse the original hole with the welded nut. Then stick a bolt and a nut/washer through the drilled holes. Is there a reason no one is suggesting this method?
 
Broke a shock bolt not surprisingly. I saw someone on here say to just twist the head of the shock, and drill two new holes instead of attempting to reuse the original hole with the welded nut. Then stick a bolt and a nut/washer through the drilled holes. Is there a reason no one is suggesting this method?
It’s not hard to drill through original nut and use a longer bolt with nut on top
 
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It’s not hard to drill through original nut and use a longer bolt with nut on top
It is when you you have shitty drill bits.
I just dealt with this this weekend.
Since I dropped the gas tank it was easier to drill a new hole through the crossmember. I had plenty of room to get a lock washer and nut above the crossmember and just send a new bolt. I had one broken on each side by the previous owner.