Interesting. Do they say why?
A new heavy-duty tall-knuckle suspension design prioritizes rider comfort and performance. The design enables the Maverick R to achieve its full potential on the trail or the track, with 25” of travel upfront, 26” in the rear, and 17” of ground clearance. The unique aerospace aluminum suspension configuration also reduces stress on components, providing superior bump absorption, increased torsional rigidity, and improved stability and handling.
I’d be curious to hear from you @mrblaine, is this a first in regards to a production vehicle? Has this sort of suspension design ever been used in KOH or anything you’re familiar with?
It’s just such an odd design, one I have certainly never seen before.
The new Grand Cherokee's use a "somewhat" similar knuckle idea. I noticed it when my sister had her L and thought it was unique how the upper ball joint is above the tire.
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I’d be curious to hear from you @mrblaine, is this a first in regards to a production vehicle? Has this sort of suspension design ever been used in KOH or anything you’re familiar with?
It’s just such an odd design, one I have certainly never seen before.
My biggest concern would be the offset loads, and whether that knuckle will handle the meathead that drive these things. Sure, Finite Element analysis can design your part...but when bubba gets his hands on it, WATCH OUT.
My Audi was set up that way. Its all about getting the longest arm in there that you can, while keeping the steering axis close to the center of the contact patch. I think its pretty innovative...Definitely skinning the cat a different way. My biggest concern would be the offset loads, and whether that knuckle will handle the meathead that drive these things. Sure, Finite Element analysis can design your part...but when bubba gets his hands on it, WATCH OUT.
With the way people drive these this was my main reason for scratching my head as to why they went with this setup.
People beat these things up enough. This just seems like one more thing for them to complain about breaking.
The beauty of these for manufacturers has always been they can just claim it was the operator's fault and not warranty. I do however see it being quite difficult to actually hit that knuckle/upper beside loads coming through wheel.
On the flip side I have found my RZR to be exceptionally reliable and capable if you are even remotely reasonable with maintenance and driving style.
You know, I read nothing but complaints online from other RZR owners who are always pissing and moaning about how Polaris sucks and yada, yada.
I've never had any issues with mine whatsoever. Granted I don't drive it like a moron, but we take it in the rocks, washes, and on every sort of terrain they have out here and it's been great to me.
As with most off-roading I think it does indeed come down to driving style. I don't load the driveline and then dump it, it's modestly built on 32s, etc.
Not to say something couldn't happen, but I must read a million failed ball joints, blown diffs, and blown driveline threads from other RZR owners that it really starts to make you think, how many bad drivers could there be?
That last one is rhetorical, I know the answer.
I've only had two issues on mine (besides I bent a lower control arm on a large rock), one lower control arm bushing which I think was bad from factory, and a sway bar link was loose. I only have 760 miles on it but have had it on some rough trails and over some large rocks. Sadly, I am probably selling soon.
I've got 1300 miles on mine but no major issues. It's a lot of fun and goes just about anywhere.
They are toys though so I could understand why they get bought and sold so often. They're impractical for just about anything other than off-roading.
Limited use plus for this part of the country ATV's are more fun/practical.
It looks to be designed correctly. The intersection of the main support beam to the knuckle is gradual, beefy where it should be, not beefy where it shouldn't be and all of the angles are done very well. The only thing I can't see very well is the spring on the upper chassis side A arm to see how far apart the inboard pivots are.
I wouldn't worry about the meatheads. They made that thing to go fast in the whoops and outside of a high energy impact with an immoveable object like a rock, it should do very well. Even then, I'll bet the little ear at the lower welded arm for the lower pivot fails first. There is a lot of overhung load there just outboard of a big shock.