Sarcasm and rudeness are two of the go to tools of a true mechanic 
What does this tubing go to?
- Thread starter Tj5
- Start date
Got it. I've been watching videos on how to test various components under the front end. But I'm sure experience beats all.
I had wobbles in my rig from front to rear. All sins created by the previous owners, poor geometry and poor basic mechanics. I had to start where I felt it was most prominent (the rear) and work my way forward. While I repaired and corrected many deficiencies, the biggest cause was tire balance and alignment. The very simplest of actions. Replacing the ball joints and upgrading to ZJ steering components made a huge difference as well.
Blain will give you "food for thought" instead of just giving you the simple answer to make you use your head and learn something about what you inquiring about. You want him on your side, trust me.
T A
TJ Enthusiast
Sounds like the problem first appeared after you replaced those components? I would go through each of those connections in detail and all the parts to make sure you know what's happening with those.
If you have not greased any of the joints (other than the new track bar), someone else may have recently-ish (in a service shop or right before you bought it). At any rate, it's normal for newly-greased joints to leak out a little. I'd clean them off and continue to watch for leakage.
As for the track bar, if it was ever allowed to get loose by previous owner(s), it can bang around and wallow-out the mounting hole. If this has happened, your only good option is to get it repaired by welding in a plate or washers to bring the bolt hole back to proper size and shape. The bolt should be just small enough to fit through the track bar end...which should be the same size as the mounting hole in the axle-side mounting.
If your steering wheel is no longer centered, that is an easy fix...simply loosen the bolts on the lock rings on either side of the adjustment collar (the collar, both rings and bolts are all visible in your pic from post #19, pretty much dead center of the pic, in the far left third). Once you have them loose, you should be able to rotate the collar to lengthen or shorten your drag link which will, in turn, change the position of your steering wheel in relation to the direction the drive wheels are pointed. In other words, rotate the collar in the proper direction to recenter your steering wheel and then tighten the lock ring bolts back up. What you do need to make sure of first is that your axle is centered right-to left with your TJ level and sitting an all fours. If it's not, the track bar is probably the wrong length.
As for the track bar, if it was ever allowed to get loose by previous owner(s), it can bang around and wallow-out the mounting hole. If this has happened, your only good option is to get it repaired by welding in a plate or washers to bring the bolt hole back to proper size and shape. The bolt should be just small enough to fit through the track bar end...which should be the same size as the mounting hole in the axle-side mounting.
If your steering wheel is no longer centered, that is an easy fix...simply loosen the bolts on the lock rings on either side of the adjustment collar (the collar, both rings and bolts are all visible in your pic from post #19, pretty much dead center of the pic, in the far left third). Once you have them loose, you should be able to rotate the collar to lengthen or shorten your drag link which will, in turn, change the position of your steering wheel in relation to the direction the drive wheels are pointed. In other words, rotate the collar in the proper direction to recenter your steering wheel and then tighten the lock ring bolts back up. What you do need to make sure of first is that your axle is centered right-to left with your TJ level and sitting an all fours. If it's not, the track bar is probably the wrong length.
If those joints continue leaking, is that an indication to replace them?
The stock size bolt is all that would fit the axle mount, but that bolt was a little loose in the new track bar bushing before installation. I hoped it would be ok, and really needed the Jeep to be drivable the next day, so I installed it. I had purchased a grade 8 bolt in case what I purchased wasn't correct (I had to cut the original bolt to get it out), but the grade 8 was a little too thick for the axle mount or the bushing.
I think the track bar is probably a different length than stock as my steering wheel was centered prior to the new bar installation.
You have given me much information, and I appreciate your input and patience as I'm learning.
If they continue leaking, it probably means their boots are a bit worn. Check for tears or holes in the boots. It can also take a little time/motion to get any excess grease/pressure out of the boots. It's always a bit of a challenge on a vehicle that is new to you. Sometimes you just have to watch and see.
If the new track bar is substantially longer or shorter, it may be incorrect but they will likely always be just a bit different from your previous one which will cause your steering wheel to shift a bit from center. The bolt size for the trackbar eye being bigger concerns me though...it may be they sent you one for a different vehicle.
Don't let him under yer skin, while he was learning to weld the rest of us were developing social skills.
Nah, even if my social skills were as good as my welding, I'd still be a dick about the obvious.
Where else could it have possibly hooked up to? Seriously. It is pointed the right direction when held up near the fitting on the manifold, it is exactly the right size, the fitting is the only shiny clean part under the hood, where else could something not hooked up to something possibly go? Where?
If you keep at it, you will find that more than half of "being a mechanic" is having enough confidence in yourself to go for it. You actually have an excellent vehicle on which to learn since it is not completely controlled by computers and electronic doohickies like new vehicles and has fairly straight-forward design. You will also, no doubt, find that you will really enjoy the experience and the money savings of doing it yourself when you can.
BTW, we tend to use the term "wrencher" as in "I've been wrenching on Jeeps since before there was air!". Mostly, I think, to keep from presenting ourselves as professional mechanics; though, some of us are; like MrBlain. That said, there are wrenchers on this sight that likely know more about TJ's than most mechanics; certainly the ones from non-Jeep-specific shops. It's a great resource and a fun place to burn some hours while waiting for the paint to dry
I have a suggestion in mind...
The man is new to wrenching, new to the vehicle, not at all sure what he's looking at, and, not surprisingly, a bit intimidated and afraid of goofing something up by following what might seem obvious but might, in fact, lead to some sort of very costly problem.
So, he comes to us, looking for guidance in the matter...and what do you do? You ridicule him for his lack of confidence and ability to see what, to you is so obvious it hurts! And yes, it hurts!
Think I'll go watch a comedy
Blaine was correct, you did need to be slapped silly over the vacuum hose. That was a no brainer. I am not a great mechanic, but I have good experience in many areas. When I was a young stud learning the trade, the shop owner and guru used to shout at me when I was stumped... "Think mechanically or get out of the shop". He was correct. You need to do the same. When I have to do a repair in an arena I am unfamiliar, I research a bit before I grab the tools.
I think you've learned where that hose goes, ha. The guy giving you grief about that has posted some of the most knowlegeable stuff on your more important problem the DW, which I find kind of ironic reading this....his posts remind me of my brother teaching me about working on my first Jeep 30 years ago, ha.
On your wobble, this is a picture of a standard TJ front steering and suspension. They've given good advice, but here's the what I know, if you have something failing from age and wear, the Previous Owner didn't maintain all the other parts and let one go. Every end to every one of those has a ball joint/bushing/bolt/etc and if a combination is loose.....well you've seen the result. You'll need to all of it tight. Not just tighten bolts, but get it all correct, if something is worn, bushings worn out, it may not look like it will move, but it will under the weight of motion.
Your thread title won't lead DW knowledge. I'd start by learning what each of these is and does on a TJ or any car, and search forums on it. There are pages and pages, and you'll start to see what people need to help. They need pics, the need details. Most likely you'll need to replace and properly maintain these components along with tires being balanced and rotated so they wear evenly, and the Jeep will drive safely again.
Did you read the part where I said it was laying against the firewall when I found it? I had to thread it through some other wires to get it back to that location.
You're so smart. I'm so dumb. I get it. Get over it. Add something worthwhile to this post, or don't respond. Being a dick isn't a great way of teaching anything to anyone.
Maybe, but I'll be very surprised if the next time you consider posting about something so basic that you at least don't give a second thought about whether or not you could have figured it out all by your lonesome.
Alright, I've read the whole thread and you need some help with the basics on your DW issue.
Step 1- get the tires balanced and check for tread hop and squirm while they are spinning. If the tire monkeys won't let you in the shop so you can watch them, find new tire monkeys.
Step 2- stop worrying about grease for now.
Step 3- learn how to do the power steering test. Start the motor, get someone to turn the steering wheel quickly back and forth between the two points where resistance starts to be felt, typically around 11 - 1. Don't stop, don't go slow, quickly back and forth. You get under the front with a light source and watch each joint. Upper ball joints for lateral play of any amount. Watch the tie rod ends for any slop. Typically it starts with the body popping up and down very slightly. The axle side of the trackbar will move slightly as the rubber compresses, that is fine. Don't worry about the stabilizer.
Easy way to check for movement is by feel. Example would be the pitman TRE. Put your thumb on the pitman, index finger on the body, feel for slight movements that shouldn't be there.
Step 4- If you do not find the smoking gun, do not despair. Set the toe out to anything over 5/8" or so and then go drive over the same spot that kicks the rig into DW. If it no longer does the DW thing, that strongly points to the upper control arms. (this all assumes you have gone over all the suspension bolts to make sure they are tight with no witness marks to show something has been loose and moving) Do not drive forever with the toe set like that. If the DW didn't show up, get a new set of upper control arms, install them and go try again with the toe set correctly.
During the power steering test, watch how far the pitman moves relative to the turning of the input steering shaft. The ratio needs to be very close to 1-1. If the input moves a tiny amount, the pitman also needs to move the same.
Report back with your findings even if you don't know the names of the parts. Take a pic and put arrows or something, we'll figure out what they are.
Lastly, driving and getting DW is very damaging to components. If you keep it up, anything that was good but nearing the end of its lifespan can be overpowered and ruined to the point of needing replacement. In other words, you can cascade this if it isn't stopped into needing a shitpot full of new parts.
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that post is one for Chris to Sticky.. It’s a pretty good maintenance routine even if you’re not having current symptoms.
Diagnose, replace. Do the power steering test, be observant, be patient. Stuff you are not expected to know can easily be worked through if you pay some attention. Did I mention to do the power steering test yet?
Relax, take a breath, you're not in over your head, and if you were looking to get out of the everyday frustrations, if you have the right PERSPECTIVE, this will be good.
Follow what mrblaine instructed, exactly. Take your time, be very thorough, it'll be super cool as you identify and fix the issue.
My wife's a lifelong special needs elementary teacher, when you got this Jeep tight, flowing in the wind will be a Great thing. You've got it, just follow what he says, and you'll nail it down.
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