What is a fair price to list my Rubicon axle assemblies for?

taylormade73

taylormade73

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I have front and rear Dana 44 Rubi axles that I'm going to be putting up for sale; however, I don't know what a fair price would be considering there are a couple issues with them: 1. rear locker has a suspected bad actuator and 2. front made a popping noise while driving just prior to me garaging it for the installation of the replacement axle assemblies. They are take offs from my 05 LJR from my switch to RJ60/44 combo.

Specs:
Rear
5.13 G2 ring and pinion (less than 5k miles)
G2 chromoly shafts (less than 5k miles)
New bearings and seals (less than 5k miles)
Factory locker (bad actuator)
Solid diff covers
Will need e-brake pad, rotors and calipers

Front
5.13 G2 ring and pinion (less than 5k miles)
Stock shafts with new 5-760x u-joints (less than 5k miles)
New bearings and seals (less than 5k miles)
New pinion yoke (less than 5k miles)
Factory locker (suspected bad spider gears-locker works)
Solid diff covers
Does not include brakes, or steering components

As these are take offs (80k miles at removal), all stock bracketry is intact. Will include locker pumps, air lines and electrical lines (except lines to switches). Pumps worked prior to removal.

I have the original 4.10 ring and pinions for front and rear and stock rear axle shafts also. What is a fair price for the above axle assemblies and locker pumps?
 
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taylormade73 said:
I have front and rear Dana 44 Rubi axles that I'm going to be putting up for sale; however, I don't know what a fair price would be considering there are a couple issues with them: 1. rear locker has a suspected bad actuator and 2. front made a popping noise while driving just prior to me garaging it for the installation of the replacement axle assemblies. They are take offs from my 05 LJR from my switch to RJ60/44 combo.

Specs:
Rear
5.13 G2 ring and pinion (less than 5k miles)
G2 chromoly shafts (less than 5k miles)
New bearings and seals (less than 5k miles)
Factory locker (bad actuator)
Solid diff covers
Will need e-brake pad, rotors and calipers

Front
5.13 G2 ring and pinion (less than 5k miles)
Stock shafts with new 5-760x u-joints (less than 5k miles)
New bearings and seals (less than 5k miles)
New pinion yoke (less than 5k miles)
Factory locker (suspected bad spider gears-locker works)
Solid diff covers
Does not include outer knuckles, unit bearings, brakes, or steering components

As these are take offs (80k miles at removal), all stock bracketry is intact. Will include locker pumps, air lines and electrical lines (except lines to switches). Pumps worked prior to removal.

I have the original 4.10 ring and pinions for front and rear and stock rear axle shafts also. What is a fair price for the above axle assemblies and locker pumps?
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If it were me, I would charge around $700-$800 each. Or $1500 for the front and rear together. You should prob ask less considering the undiagnosed noises and bad parts.

But thats me, If I were to sell a Jeep part, I tend to set a price that I would think is a fair price in which I would pay. I don't usually see them that cheap though.

If it was a wheeling buddy or a family/friend, it would be hard for me to ask more than $1k for both.
 
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Seems most ask $2500-3000k for a stock working set. They seem to go at that price too.

If you don’t want to mess with them, you might get that. The upgrades are nice but if you start telling someone the rear locker doesn’t work (not sure why but a guess) and the front locker is toast...you have parts axles. You would be money ahead to part them if someone can’t buy and bolt them in.

If the front locker is toast, someone has to pay for a regear and maybe the rear too. Lots of cash for unknown axles.


Fix or part would be my choice. I couldn’t sell for much knowing someone might be really diving in with lots more money to make them work. Oh and noticed nothing from the outers on the front and needing rear brakes. Yeah part them out.

Edit: Especially that stock rubicon lockers aren’t easy to come by these days.
 
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Rubi04 said:
If the front locker is toast, someone has to pay for a regear and maybe the rear too. Lots of cash for unknown axles.
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Thank you. How would one part axles out though?

Also, I'm not sure why they would have to be regeared to replace the front locker?Both diffs were regeared less than 5k miles ago. As soon as I heard the noise I garaged it and didn't drive it again. I pulled the diff cover to inspect and No metal pieces or shavings in diff fluid and everything looked good. I can just hear a faint "crinkling sound" coming from inside the spiders when I rock wheels back and forth. Wouldn't someone just be able to put a locker in and call it a day?

Would I be better off taking the good actuator off the front and putting on rear so it is an upgraded Rubi axle with working locker? This way all that is needed would be rear brakes and front brakes/steering.

For what its worth, I don't mind giving a forum member a good deal on these axles.

Edit: I just remembered I still have stock steering knucks I took off when I installed my BBK.
 
taylormade73 said:
Agreed.
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Sadly around here, a front axle missing knuckles and brake bits makes it a tough sell. No goober, you have those parts, just move them over from your stock axle. Not to mention you need to take that shit off to make the axle easier to move around.

The rear one without a working differential and no brake bits is worth 5-800 regardless of gear ratio. They are buying an empty housing for the most part that is not plug and play and that sucks because a set of working versions is 2000-3500 out here.
 
mrblaine said:
Sadly around here, a front axle missing knuckles and brake bits makes it a tough sell. No goober, you have those parts, just move them over from your stock axle. Not to mention you need to take that shit off to make the axle easier to move around.

The rear one without a working differential and no brake bits is worth 5-800 regardless of gear ratio. They are buying an empty housing for the most part that is not plug and play and that sucks because a set of working versions is 2000-3500 out here.
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mrblaine said:
Sadly around here, a front axle missing knuckles and brake bits makes it a tough sell. No goober, you have those parts, just move them over from your stock axle. Not to mention you need to take that shit off to make the axle easier to move around.

The rear one without a working differential and no brake bits is worth 5-800 regardless of gear ratio. They are buying an empty housing for the most part that is not plug and play and that sucks because a set of working versions is 2000-3500 out here.
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Would it be worth it to take the actuator from the front Locker put it on the rear to make it a working locker and then put rotors and calipers on? This would make it a fully functional rear axle assembly with Factory Rubicon locker and pump and upgraded chromoly shafts recently geared to 5:13.
 
taylormade73 said:
Would it be worth it to take the actuator from the front Locker put it on the rear to make it a working locker and then put rotors and calipers on? This would make it a fully functional rear axle assembly with Factory Rubicon locker and pump and upgraded chromoly shafts recently geared to 5:13.
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Yes and no. I know if I buy a used Rubi rear axle with the OEM locker that my reasonable expectation of the locker being viable for any estimated length of time is very low. They are too hit and miss with durability issues and all it takes is one hard bump on an obstacle to start tearing up the limited slip gears.

But, if the locker issue is ignored, you have a rear axle that is worth 15-1800ish to the right person.
 
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taylormade73 said:
Would it be worth it to take the actuator from the front Locker put it on the rear to make it a working locker and then put rotors and calipers on? This would make it a fully functional rear axle assembly with Factory Rubicon locker and pump and upgraded chromoly shafts recently geared to 5:13.
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I sold a similar pair for $1500. To me, it's not worth the work to swap one and make it work. In that case it's still an unknown and I wouldn't want to sell it that way. Better to disclose what you know and get what you can. FWIW, I have a front axle now with a problem and I can't give it away.
 
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Irun said:
I sold a similar pair for $1500. To me, it's not worth the work to swap one and make it work. In that case it's still an unknown and I wouldn't want to sell it that way. Better to disclose what you know and get what you can. FWIW, I have a front axle now with a problem and I can't give it away.
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There is a guy in NorCal that sells pairs of 44 Rubi axles for 3500 and gets all bitchy when you tell him how hard he is fucking folks and how hard they are letting themselves get fucked.
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm not looking to retire off the sale of these axles or to take advantage of anyone. I'd rather just give a forum member or friend looking to move to 35's a good deal on some axles (already regeared and upgraded). Moving to 35's they would need to upgrade brakes anyway. So all they would need to worry about would be brakes and lockers.
 
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mrblaine said:
Yes and know. I know if I buy a used Rubi rear axle with the OEM locker that my reasonable expectation of the locker being viable for any estimated length of time is very low. They are too hit and miss with durability issues and all it takes is one hard bump on an obstacle to start tearing up the limited slip gears.
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Is there a way to check the condition of a used OEM Rubi locker?
 
When I bought my 03 Rubicon the rear carrier was trashed, due to LS gears, and knew I had to replace the carrier. The front carrier is better by not having LS. If you have a choice, get a front carrier for the rear.

Since the locker uses a low pressure air pump you can easily see the locker function by blowing into the air actuator.
 
Rec_Rider said:
When I bought my 03 Rubicon the rear carrier was trashed, due to LS gears, and knew I had to replace the carrier. The front carrier is better by not having LS. If you have a choice, get a front carrier for the rear.

Since the locker uses a low pressure air pump you can easily see the locker function by blowing into the air actuator.
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If you are talking a front Rubi carrier, that is bad advice. They are not as strong as the rear one and will generally fail.
 
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mrblaine said:
If you are talking a front Rubi carrier, that is bad advice. They are not as strong as the rear one and will generally fail.
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I wasn't aware of that. I thought without the LS plates that the strength of the locker was the same.
 
Rec_Rider said:
I wasn't aware of that. I thought without the LS plates that the strength of the locker was the same.
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Spider gears are not even close to the same and the front is a much weaker design. That and the LS is not plates or clutches. It is a torsen gear style and that's what fails. The gears break and the pieces ruin the locker.

There is someone on here who soundly ignored that advice a few years ago, put the front in the back, it died as predicted and he was trying to come up with every excuse possible to not blame the locker but if you know, you know and that shit don't fly.
 
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Thanks for the education @mrblaine. I happen to have a spare carrier from another front axle I bought before I did my 1 ton swaps. It's there in case my son breaks his but it's good to know that it shouldn't be used in the rear.
 
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