JeepDrivesBest
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Wrapping the gear oil in an electric blanket is a genius hack, never would've thought of that but it makes total sense since warm oil flows so much easier!
What Pump Do Y'all Use?
- Thread starter That'll Buff
- Start date
I'm with @GATORB8 on this one. I always use this.
p.s. Save the pumps for your ED issues.
View attachment 701563
Same thing I use, in the past I had a long peice of hose, stick one end in the Diff and put the bottle spout in the other and let it drain in.
The squeeze bags are way easier.
And here I was purposefully avoiding those bags because I thought they'd do more harm than good. Guess that's what I get for blindly listening to people. Still a useful question for when I do my transmission or something, thanks y'all!
Well, you still need to be careful. It common for gear installers to run non synthetic in the front Rubicon diffs for break in. We've had 3 where I told them not to do that, they still did it and then got to pay for the tow to their shop and replace the gears for free after the pinion bearings locked up.
I've heard that, and I can understand it based on what I've read. That being said, after break in (well after in my case) does it matter? Personally I'm fine either way conventional or synthetic, Im just looking for a solution that may be better than those god-awful pumps. Curious as to why you bring it up.
I brought it up because whether or not you need synthetic for a particular diff is not just legend.
Is there some way that the oil interacts differently with a stock Rubicon locker than with other manufacturers? Looking at the make up of the rear Rubicon locker when I tore mine apart versus looking at the outside of the ARB locker I can't see a material difference where synthetic vs conventional would make a difference. It's either the dog clutch or the air bladder that I see any issues with, although I'm not sure how exactly. Maybe the internal gears create issues? I'm really interested to know if you or someone else might know the answer since ARB states that synthetic is fine above anything beyond pure road use it seems. Too add onto this, are you saying that I should be more mindful of what I put in the front diff BECAUSE it's the stock locker, or are you saying in general?
Snapped off my fill plug, so I had to get creative for filling.
Use a vacuum pump and rubber tube. Hook it up to the vent port. Pull a vacuum on the axle housing.
Kink the hose, unplug the vacuum pump, stick it on the bottle, flip the bottle, and all of your differential fluid gets sucked right into the axle.
Use a vacuum pump and rubber tube. Hook it up to the vent port. Pull a vacuum on the axle housing.
Kink the hose, unplug the vacuum pump, stick it on the bottle, flip the bottle, and all of your differential fluid gets sucked right into the axle.
When I had my fiasco a few days ago I actually tried the vent port (swapped it over when I swapped the axles) but for some reason it was pretty stuck on there. At least, as stuck as I was willing to try with the luck I had been having. If not for that I would be just pouring the oil straight into the axle tubes from now on, at least in the rear.
Nothing to do with the locker. It is the difficulty that is inherent to some front axles when the oiling channels are pointed opposite the rear axle. The pinion bearings are oiled by how the oil is slung off of the spinning ring gear. Both the front and rear gears turn the same direction but the pinions point at each other, or one forward and one rearward. Dana apparently missed getting the oil channels as good as they could be so they specified a synthetic oil from the factory. Pure speculation but lots of front axles get by just fine on regular gear oil, so what makes the Rubi 44 special that they would do that?
I just looked back and realized I misread what you said in your first message. I thought you were saying that I SHOULD be using conventional specifically in the front, which made me think that something about the odd design nature of the Rubicon lockers required it. Now I'm realizing you're saying the opposite. I'll keep that in mind next time I touch the front diff.
I just run 75w-140 front and rear to simplify things. It's worked for 290K.
Just had a crazy idea from this:
Rubicon locker pump broken? Just run the axle vent tube right into a vacuum port. Engine pulls a vacuum, air bladder inflates with normal air, differential locks.
Just don't ford any streams if you don't trust your axle seals.
(I don't actually recommend this...)
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