I had my transmission out in order to fix some leaks, and upon reinstalling it while torquing up the top-driver side bellhousing bolt, one of the E12 ones, the ear on the engine it threads to cracked clean off the block.
The previous owner at some point had replaced the E12 bolts with regular hex bolts, and it seems the ones they replaced it with were too long. I replaced the clutch a little over a year ago and I suppose I got lucky with torquing the trans down; I had to chase that ears threads out but didn't have any other issues so didn't think much of it. This time around it started to tighten up and just went loose with a pop sound.
Short of dropping another engine into the Jeep, what would be the best way to fix this issue? I know that brazing or nickel rod are good methods for cast iron, but my experience with those methods are limited, and don't know what would be best. I can't imagine this being repairable without removing the engine, so would there be any problems running without that bolt until it can be repaired?
I've found a few other similar situations on other forums, and it sounds like the methods mentioned above are the go-to, but I am curious as to what people here think. Pic attached is of the cracked ear, taken from below looking up towards the exhaust manifold.
The previous owner at some point had replaced the E12 bolts with regular hex bolts, and it seems the ones they replaced it with were too long. I replaced the clutch a little over a year ago and I suppose I got lucky with torquing the trans down; I had to chase that ears threads out but didn't have any other issues so didn't think much of it. This time around it started to tighten up and just went loose with a pop sound.
Short of dropping another engine into the Jeep, what would be the best way to fix this issue? I know that brazing or nickel rod are good methods for cast iron, but my experience with those methods are limited, and don't know what would be best. I can't imagine this being repairable without removing the engine, so would there be any problems running without that bolt until it can be repaired?
I've found a few other similar situations on other forums, and it sounds like the methods mentioned above are the go-to, but I am curious as to what people here think. Pic attached is of the cracked ear, taken from below looking up towards the exhaust manifold.