Suspension Refresh with Shock and Spring Comparison (Currie vs. Metalcloak and Bilstein vs. Rancho etc.)

hosejockey61

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I finally had time to work on my own junk after spending a lot of time on others. I've been meaning to do a suspension refresh and it gave me the opportunity to compare shocks, springs, and answer the argued question "do springs affect ride quality?".

I want to clarify there is absolutely nothing scientific about any of my experiments. Any of the ride characteristics are only gauged by butt dyno and nothing else.

First a little background.

When I bought my TJ in 2011, it had a pro comp lift with the ES3000 pro comp shocks. The control arm bushings were shot, steering was shot, the thing drove like a covered wagon.

It had a hard top, hard doors, big rear bumper with tire carrier, and I added a big front bumper and a heavy 36"x36" Tuffy security box in the back. I added steel wheels, front steel flat fenders, and steel rear fenders. Needless to say, the thing was as heavy as a tank.

I researched suspension systems and finally settled on a Metalcloak short arm lift with Bilstein 5100 shocks. I changed everything out at the same time so I can't say what caused the ride to be the way it was. But in all fairness, it was very smooth. Firm, but smooth. That was corroborated by my kid when I took him for a drive right after without telling him about the changes. There was nothing jittery, clunky, or bumpy. It was just very smooth.

After I started putting my Jeep on a diet, I could feel the suspension stiffen up and bumps would become jolting at times. I learned that the combination of suspension and shocks I had was good for heavy rigs. Metalcloak springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks. Even with all the weight, the MC springs kept the ride height at 3.5". I'm leaving the control arm joints out of the equation as I can tell no difference with those form old worn out MC joints back to new ones.

Fast forward to today.

I had already decided to go with and purchased Currie 4" springs with the LJ rears which have a 1/2" longer free length. My goal was to regain the extra 1" bumpstop requirement for the Metalcloak springs (MC requires 3" of BS and Currie requires 2" BS). I also decided that I am going to eventually outboard the rear so I can have tunable shocks. However, I'm not at that point yet so I decided to replace my existing 10 year old Bilstein 5100's with another set of 5100's. Earlier in the year I purchased the Rancho 5000x to test drive with to see if I liked them as well (more on that later).

I figured this was a great opportunity to see if springs affect ride quality. I also took the opportunity to compare shocks and comment on their quality of ride (butt dyno only).

So, I did things in this order: Removed the Bilstein 5100's and took the rig for a short drive with just the 10 year old MC springs. Then I came back and added the new Bilstein 5100's and took it for another drive. This drive included a rutted out horse trail with bumps etc. I returned to the shop and removed both the shocks and the old springs. I installed the new Currie springs without the shocks. I took it for a short drive and returned to the shop. I added the Bilstein shocks and took the same drive on the rutted trail as earlier and then returned to the shop.

These are my findings:

MC Springs Only


The ride with just the old MC springs was far stiffer than I thought it would be. Prior to leaving on the drive, I bounced the front and rear bumpers and could feel the play and anticipated a lot of sway on the test drive. I was surprised to learn that the springs felt very firm. They still bounced some, just no where near what I had anticipated. I would not define the ride as stable either just for clarification.

Currie Springs Only

After installing the Currie springs I did the same bumper bouncing as I did for the MC. The Currie springs felt far more active and bouncy. I got it on the road and, as expected, they had far more bounce and sway than the MC springs.

MC Springs and new Bilstein Shocks

I was hoping and anticipating to feel the same feeling that I did when the suspension was new 10 years ago. I learned that the new 5100's were better than the old ones, but not smooth like they were with all the weight. I am still happy with them but was hoping for smooth.

Currie Springs and new Bilstein Shocks

I didn't know what to expect at first, although I was anticipating the ride to be slightly softer compared than with the MC springs. As I began to drive I could definitely tell a slight difference. I know you want to me to quantify that....slight as in I could tell, but it didn't make a difference in ride quality that would make a difference.

Rancho 5000x and old MC springs

Awhile back I tried the Ranchos and did not like them. They felt really squishy and not very responsive. I also hated the fact that you have to run the rears can down. They just aren't for me.

Other Miscellaneous Info

The old MC springs gave me the advertised 3.5" of lift when they were new. After shedding all the weight, the front and rear springs still measured at 3.5" which tells me they were sagging before the weight loss. The 4" Currie springs came in at 4.25" in the front and a whopping 5.25" in the rear. Scratching my head I realized that the TJ only had the spare tire in it and an empty tank of gas. I loaded everything up as if it were trail ready and went to fill up the gas tank. After that, I drove to a certified scale with it coming in at the 4120 lbs. I returned back to the shop and remeasured everything. The fronts had no change while the backs settled in at 4 3/4". Don't forget the LJ rears have a 1/2" longer free length. I'm expecting the springs to eventually settle to about 4 1/4" from what others have told me about the springs.

Conclusion

Swapping over to the Currie springs will allow me to recapture that extra 1" of uptravel in the rear. I will be reworking some things to try and take advantage of that.

The springs only rides was a great experiment simply to feel the difference between the two sets of springs as well as let me truly feel if I could tell the difference if the springs made a difference on ride quality or if that was solely the job of the shocks. While I could slightly tell, I'll leave ride quality to the shocks.

As far as shock ride quality, the Rancho's are just too squishy and non-responsive. The Bilstein 5100's are better than the Ranchos by far and are actually very good if you have a heavy rig. Having put my TJ on a diet, I weighed it today with a full tank of gas, tools, spare tire, rear steel armor and it came in right at 4120 lbs. The 5100's felt way better when the rig was heavier, plain and simple. It's not bad now, but this experiment gave me a LOT of information on where I want to take it in the future. Outboarding the rear and tunable shocks front and rear are firmly on my radar. I know I can find that sweet spot again via tuning. My goal is to get it smooth as it was when it was heavy, but with what it weighs now.

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What fenders and armor are you running? Are they steel or aluminum.
 
did you try the ranchos before or after you shed the excess weight?

It's probably my lack of experience with different shocks, but I often find it hard to discern what people's descriptions of shock performance actually means in terms that I can understand.

My judgement of a shock falls down to two qualities:
1. The ability to absorb the energy of an "event", minimizing it's transfer to the frame, and therefore, my posterior. I believe a lack of this is what people refer to when they describe shocks as harsh or jittery.
2. The ability to dampen the oscillation resulting from an event quickly enough to limit the bouncing and swaying that ends up being perceived as instability. I believe a lack of this is what people describe as mushy or squishy. Is this also what you mean by "not responsive"?

I'd love to have enough of #1 to drive over a 4" ledge at 40mph and not feel it but I know that's not possible without losing all the #2 and bouncing and swaying all over the place. I'd also love to have the rig settle immediately after an event but that's not possible without having a harsh ride.

With any rig, the key is getting the right balance, and with off the shelf shocks, you just have to find the closest one, while tunable shocks can get you right at the sweet spot. I get the impression that on a given rig, Ranchos lean more toward #1 and Bilsteins get more of #2. I don't know how much really comes down to personal preference or if it's all attributable to sprung weight, because either shock will have more of 1 and less of 2 on a heavier rig, and less of 1 and more of 2 on a lighter one.
 
did you try the ranchos before or after you shed the excess weight?

It's probably my lack of experience with different shocks, but I often find it hard to discern what people's descriptions of shock performance actually means in terms that I can understand.

My judgement of a shock falls down to two qualities:
1. The ability to absorb the energy of an "event", minimizing it's transfer to the frame, and therefore, my posterior. I believe a lack of this is what people refer to when they describe shocks as harsh or jittery.
2. The ability to dampen the oscillation resulting from an event quickly enough to limit the bouncing and swaying that ends up being perceived as instability. I believe a lack of this is what people describe as mushy or squishy. Is this also what you mean by "not responsive"?

I'd love to have enough of #1 to drive over a 4" ledge at 40mph and not feel it but I know that's not possible without losing all the #2 and bouncing and swaying all over the place. I'd also love to have the rig settle immediately after an event but that's not possible without having a harsh ride.

With any rig, the key is getting the right balance, and with off the shelf shocks, you just have to find the closest one, while tunable shocks can get you right at the sweet spot. I get the impression that on a given rig, Ranchos lean more toward #1 and Bilsteins get more of #2. I don't know how much really comes down to personal preference or if it's all attributable to sprung weight, because either shock will have more of 1 and less of 2 on a heavier rig, and less of 1 and more of 2 on a lighter one.
Ranchos were tested after weight loss.

I agree with everything above the way you describe it, very well stated. I am looking for somewhere between 1 and 2 or even a combination of the two. I am not fully educated on tunable shocks yet, however, if I can tune them to where they are comfortable on normal street driving as well as responsive in the rocks to where I feel planted and not swaying everywhere, then that would be a win in my book.
 
CCFABS steel. 3" hoodline. I wish I would have gone aluminum but I'm a cheap bastard.
Reason I ask is I’m at 4400 with steel armor on 35s. Not entirely sure if that’s with me in the vehicle or not which would be 170 lbs variance) and trying to lose a little weight off the armor.
 
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Ranchos were tested after weight loss.

I agree with everything above the way you describe it, very well stated. I am looking for somewhere between 1 and 2 or even a combination of the two. I am not fully educated on tunable shocks yet, however, if I can tune them to where they are comfortable on normal street driving as well as responsive in the rocks to where I feel planted and not swaying everywhere, then that would be a win in my book.

Good to know.

I think our rigs are close in weight, so your preference for Bilsteins and my preference for Ranchos really does probably come down to preference.

I would probably restate my first post to add that ultimately the shocks job is #2, but if it does it too well, it can't allow #1 and feels too stiff.
 
Thx OP for a good write-up. The effects of springs vs shocks on ride quality get a lot of opinions here but not many do the work to really compare. Me neither, on my Jeep at least, but I've been mountain biking for 25 years and the adjustability of high end mountain bike suspension is incredible (coil springs, air springs with adjustable rates and progression curves, preload, separate high and low speed rebound and compression damping, lockouts...). You can learn an awful lot if you play with it but its easy to get lost with so much complexity. So being methodical and changing one thing at a time is most instructive, like you did.
 
Great write up. What part number were the front springs you used? I know they have fairly recently changed up the description on the given lift the springs give. I have a set of the rear Currie “LJ” rear springs CE-9131RH3P waiting to be installed but need to get the front set still. I have a set of the 3” fronts and was going to keep the ACOS perches up front but have decided to get rig of those and just use the factory perch and a longer spring and softer jounce bumper. Looks like your Jeep is sitting pretty. I wish mine was that light. Hopefully all this new Aluminum I have for it will help some. But it will never be that light with these heavy ass axles and T case I added. But the damn thing was nearly 4900# when I weighed it full of gear, fuel etc. so I had to spend some cash on Aluminum fenders, corners, and skids. Over my old Gen 1 Genright steel stuff. I’m hoping I can drop the weight of it a bit. Plus going back down in tire size should drop me another 60# total with all five. My only saving grace is that most of my added weight is unsprung weight that was added.
 
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Great write up. What part number were the front springs you used? I know they have fairly recently changed up the description on the given lift the springs give. I have a set of the rear Currie “LJ” rear springs CE-9131RH3P waiting to be installed but need to get the front set still. I have a set of the 3” fronts and was going to keep the ACOS perches up front but have decided to get rig of those and just use the factory perch and a longer spring and softer jounce bumper. Looks like your Jeep is sitting pretty. I wish mine was that light. Hopefully all this new Aluminum I have for it will help some. But it will never be that light with these heavy ass axles and T case I added. But the damn thing was nearly 4900# when I weighed it full of gear, fuel etc. so I had to spend some cash on Aluminum fenders, corners, and skids. Over my old Gen 1 Genright steel stuff. I’m hoping I can drop the weight of it a bit. Plus going back down in tire size should drop me another 60# total with all five. My only saving grace is that most of my added weight is unsprung weight that was added.
I bought the springs from Savvy. Part number are Front: CE-9132F Rear: CE-9131RH3
 
Are Metal Cloak the stiffest springs out there? I need to carry a snow plow and from what you wrote they seem like the right choice to carry 400+ lbs in front of the bumper.
 
Are Metal Cloak the stiffest springs out there? I need to carry a snow plow and from what you wrote they seem like the right choice to carry 400+ lbs in front of the bumper.

If I was adding 400+lb snow plow I’d be adding some air bags to the coil springs. There are no TJ spring that have a spring rate that will accommodate that weight addition.
 
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Are Metal Cloak the stiffest springs out there? I need to carry a snow plow and from what you wrote they seem like the right choice to carry 400+ lbs in front of the bumper.

I have no idea if the MC are the stiffest, but I will 100% agree with JMT that you need more than springs if your are ~400lbs off the front. My plow is a lightweight plow for residential driveways (I would guess 150-200 lbs.) and I only use it for my house and my neighbors. I don't take it out on the streets if I can help it.
 
Great writeup.. Not sure how I missed this when you first posted.

I've been running the Rancho's for the past few years. I installed them immediately after purchase, removing the Rough Country N3's the PO installed as sale-bait. I did leave the RC springs. The ride is pretty comfortable with the exception of nailing a northeast pothole or expansion joint.

TJ is my DD with backcountry dirt roads and open outer beach sand a dozen or so days a month. No hard top, minimal stubby Motobilt bumpers front and back, steel InstaTrunk out back, no winch and for now the back seat is still in. About to add a Motobilt gas tank skid which will add some pounds but overall. not heavy rig.

I still want to change out the RC springs which appear to be sagging in the front a bit and I never liked the shocks mounted can down in the rear. Not sure what to take from your post since setups are apples and oranges. But it was a well thought out experiment none the less.
 
The older ford rangers 82-97 use a much stiffer spring for the ttb suspension. Tj coils have been used on them with modifications,the same might be true in reverse.

Air bags would be better for when the plow came off though
 
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