Build plan sanity check

El Jay

El Jay

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Jan 20, 2022
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KY
I picked up an 06 LJ not too long ago with plans of slowly building it. However, my axles sucked in some water and decided to self destruct a couple weeks ago. So now I "get" to push the fast forward button and progress this build at a MUCH faster rate. I'm trying to maintain some decent financial decisions through all of this but at the same time don't really want to have to rebuild it later. On road performance is equally important to me as this is my daily driver.

General build goals: this is a daily driver and I want it to stay that way. Keep it as light as possible using aluminum instead of steel where it's feasible. Able to wheel it fairly hard on the weekend and drive to work on Monday. I would like to stay away from proprietary parts as much as possible. Currently I'm on 35s, may go to 37s later but wont go bigger than 37s.

I'm looking at either a ECGS D489 w/JK outers or a RockJock 60 for the front and either a ECGS semi float 60 rear or a RockJock 60 rear. I'm planning on a front E-locker and rear Detroit, probably going to go with 5:13s

Other things that will happen at about the same time, a Savvy or UCF tummy tuck and all that goes into it and a 6-pinion, wide chain, SS SYE transfer case rebuild. Will also be replacing the current lift with a Currie/Savvy lift. Steering will be sorted after axles are solidified.

Looking for experience based guidance on what axle combo and width and why you recommend it. I'm not locked into these options they are just the one's I've turned up in the searching I've done. Also by going to D60s how much lift would they effectively give over stock based on axle tube diameter?
 
don't blow your $ on anything with JK C's or uses stock JK BJ's for 37's, that's the weak spot of the JK axle.

i don't really see much about the 6 gear planetary upgrade until you move into low gear doublers. or the wide chain which i did see can get hung up or not work right or something hokey about it, possibly a 1st gen version fixed, IDK
 
LJ- does that change for a daily driver? I suppose with manual hubs it would be a non issue but what about with unit bearings?
 
AndyG said:
If he is sane, I’m not sure we can help him
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Sane is a relative term….
I’m on the wrong end of the country to drop it with Mr. Blaine. Also the dollars go a lot further if I do the work myself. However I’ve been taking notes on what he’s said and fully intend to incorporate some of his philosophies into this build.

If I do end up with a Dana 60 in the rear, what’s the likelihood that I’ll have interference between axle/track bar/gas tank?
 
El Jay said:
Sane is a relative term….
I’m on the wrong end of the country to drop it with Mr. Blaine. Also the dollars go a lot further if I do the work myself. However I’ve been taking notes on what he’s said and fully intend to incorporate some of his philosophies into this build.

If I do end up with a Dana 60 in the rear, what’s the likelihood that I’ll have interference between axle/track bar/gas tank?
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High. I'll also second the notion that 37s will chew up JK balljoints. If you really think 37s are in your future, look into a Dana 60 front end, or some hybrid that uses Dana 60 inner Cs and knuckles.
 
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Mike_H said:
High. I'll also second the notion that 37s will chew up JK balljoints. If you really think 37s are in your future, look into a Dana 60 front end, or some hybrid that uses Dana 60 inner Cs and knuckles.
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If you’re gonna use 60’s you might as well go with 40’s.
 
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dt3 said:
Move to Nebraska and buy a wrecked one and tear into at my house.
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x2 for bringing it to Nebraska!
🙂

To help with estimating height change due to axle tube diameters: my Dana 60 front axle tube diameter is 3.75 inches, Sterling 10.5 rear is 3.5 inches.

As for the rear axle interference, my Sterling 10.5 with stock diff cover never touched the gas tank. That may change depending what aftermarket diff cover you use.
 
gogetter said:
x2 for bringing it to Nebraska!
🙂

To help with estimating height change due to axle tube diameters: my Dana 60 front axle tube diameter is 3.75 inches, Sterling 10.5 rear is 3.5 inches.

As for the rear axle interference, my Sterling 10.5 with stock diff cover never touched the gas tank. That may change depending what aftermarket diff cover you use.
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That would be a good time but it’s a LONG drive. Maybe one of these years I’ll be able to get back for deer season.

Thanks for the info on diff interference and axle tube height gain. So if I’m thinking right it should net 1/2-3/4” height gain.
 
40s aren’t likely, I don’t want it to draw too much attention as it will be street driven. Also I prefer to not push the limits on drivetrain strain as I want a high level of durability. I won’t be able to spend huge amounts of time repairing broken stuff all the time.
 
Sanity check - if you want a Jeep Wrangler, there is a certain maximum tire size that makes sense with the wheelbase...

If you want bigger, build a buggy.

Otherwise buy a replacement Dana 44 from scrapped Jeep or repair current axle (should be a Dana 44 if it is an Unlimited).

Paying for an axle that costs more than most entire TJs is ludicrous.

Daily driving a stock TJ is insane in my opinion. Daily driving a TJ on 37's is absolutely crazy nuts ridiculous WTF are you thinking have you never driven a nice modern car yes you could but why would you want to?
 
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El Jay said:
Sane is a relative term….
I’m on the wrong end of the country to drop it with Mr. Blaine. Also the dollars go a lot further if I do the work myself. However I’ve been taking notes on what he’s said and fully intend to incorporate some of his philosophies into this build.

If I do end up with a Dana 60 in the rear, what’s the likelihood that I’ll have interference between axle/track bar/gas tank?
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It is going to depend on where you set it- you may want to stretch it some- and how you end up locating the track bar mounts - I’m involved a little in a build and it is one step at a time, then you cycle everything, adjust and go from there- I’m out of school advising on this- but we have the guys here with the experience.
 
Vtx531 said:
Sanity check - if you want a Jeep Wrangler, there is a certain maximum tire size that makes sense with the wheelbase...

If you want bigger, build a buggy.

Otherwise buy a replacement Dana 44 from scrapped Jeep or repair current axle (should be a Dana 44 if it is an Unlimited).

Paying for an axle that costs more than most entire TJs is ludicrous.

Daily driving a stock TJ is insane in my opinion. Daily driving a TJ on 37's is absolutely crazy nuts ridiculous WTF are you thinking have you never driven a nice modern car yes you could but why would you want to?
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Speaking as someone who daily drives their LJ on 42's (and loving every minute of it), Vtx531 is correct.
Understanding the tradeoffs associated with a build goes a long way to managing one's expectations.
 
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