They aren't typically know for doing retarded shit so there is that.If TRE came back out with a thimble that laid flat against the fairlead, I wonder if we'd accuse them of copying Factor 55?
They aren't typically know for doing retarded shit so there is that.If TRE came back out with a thimble that laid flat against the fairlead, I wonder if we'd accuse them of copying Factor 55?
I'll bet you a dollar I can suck that Saber right through a roller fairlead and it won't even slow it down.Personally, anything metallic that touches the radius on the fairlead is a non-starter for me. I'd rather not have to replace the 150' synthetic rope on my winch due to damage from a messed up fairlead radius. That it may actually spread the fairlead opening due to winch pulling is a secondary reason, too.
They aren't typically know for doing retarded shit so there is that.
Small ones I set on my bumper. After I pull it tight as I can I just hook it through a steel bow shackle and step into the loop. For the bigger ones I use an F350 and my Jeep to set them. How not to high line has tested them and they can be stronger if you set them fully tied with the ends tucked. You should give it a try, it's not too difficult. Much easier than the loops on double braid nylon kinetics. Those take time and I've made mistakes. My first shackles were fine and the dyneema isn't too expensive. You can also tie and untie the button knot without tucking the ends as many times as you want to practice unlike the splice on the kinetic.i looked at making some of my own. how'd you lock that knot? from what i think i learned they are not just tied, they are tied and tugged with a lot of force to lock that knot.