Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

Damn got sick after I'd posted my last comments and finally felt good enough to be in the garage again.
If I don't have at least 1 cigar a day you know I'm feeling like shit... And I didn't have one until yesterday.

So I tackled the flares today. Got them sprayed with another coat of primer because I'd gotten some dings in them. So I sanded them down and applied primer again. And I think I figured out what went wrong with the fenders. The primer I'm using from Eastwood needs to sit for 2 hours before applying a base coat. And dummy me had misread that. So I'd followed the time from other primer I'd applied. So this time I waited the full 2 hours before applying the single stage Black.

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And I started on the bottom side first this time.

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Now I'm watching paint dry so I can flip everything over and paint the other side.
 
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For the paint guys out there I've got a question.
I'm using a single stage urethane paint for the flares. My understanding is that this has clear in the paint already. But is there a reason to or can I apply additional coats of clear over it?
Just trying to learn and understand more.
Doesn't the clear add more protection to the paint?

Thanks
 
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Wildman said:
For the paint guys out there I've got a question.
I'm using a single stage urethane paint for the flares. My understanding is that this has clear in the paint already. But is there a reason to or can I apply additional coats of clear over it?
Just trying to learn and understand more.
Doesn't the clear add more protection to the paint?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Its not that single stage paint has clear in it...its just formulated to be glossy from the paint itself. You probably can clear it, but I'd wait a LONG time before I did so...you don't want to trap any solvents and some of those urethanes can take a really long time to fully cure. You'll probably need to sand it down before clear too, so the paint has some "tooth."

I'd just leave it as single stage and move on.
 
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Mike_H said:
Its not that single stage paint has clear in it...its just formulated to be glossy from the paint itself. You probably can clear it, but I'd wait a LONG time before I did so...you don't want to trap any solvents and some of those urethanes can take a really long time to fully cure. You'll probably need to sand it down before clear too, so the paint has some "tooth."

I'd just leave it as single stage and move on.
Click to expand...

OK that is what I was wondering. I'll just leave it alone.
 
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Alex01 said:
I doubt a rock or tree will care how many coats of clear you add anyways lol.
Click to expand...

I'm learning as I go. It'll be interesting to see how my paint work holds up. But the good part is that I have left over paint so I can touch it up as needed.

See what you guys got me into??? DAMN IT.
 
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Wildman said:
Doesn't the clear add more protection to the paint?
Click to expand...

Just because you asked, yes you can clear over it, but it's not really going to add protection. Like @Mike_H said, you would need to sand it for the clear to bond.

You may already know this, but atmospheric conditions will also affect dry times, so in certain conditions like too humid or too cold, suggested dry times won't be enough. This is when reducers and what not can be added. Also, I noticed you're painting in an open, working garage which can cause contamination issues, so be extra diligent when cleaning. Something as simple as spraying a typical penetrating oil in the corner last week can put stuff in the air that will find its way to your parts to be painted. You can use plastic or tarps to create a makeshift paint booth to help minimize that. Just make sure you keep some ventilation.

If you want to watch some videos, Kevin Tetz has some good videos out, and I think he worked for Eastwood for a while. Paint Society on youtube also has some good info.
 
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BlueC said:
Just because you asked, yes you can clear over it, but it's not really going to add protection. Like @Mike_H said, you would need to sand it for the clear to bond.

You may already know this, but atmospheric conditions will also affect dry times, so in certain conditions like too humid or too cold, suggested dry times won't be enough. This is when reducers and what not can be added. Also, I noticed you're painting in an open, working garage which can cause contamination issues, so be extra diligent when cleaning. Something as simple as spraying a typical penetrating oil in the corner last week can put stuff in the air that will find its way to your parts to be painted. You can use plastic or tarps to create a makeshift paint booth to help minimize that. Just make sure you keep some ventilation.

If you want to watch some videos, Kevin Tetz has some good videos out, and I think he worked for Eastwood for a while. Paint Society on youtube also has some good info.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I started watching Paint Society this winter to get an idea of what I was doing. But as you can see I've had some screwups along the way. I'd bought reducer but haven't tried any as of yet. But I do appreciate all the tips I can get as I do this. Hopefully I'll be done with all the major painting soon and can start to reassemble it.

To be honest I'm nervous as HECK for when I try turning that key for the first time.
 
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BlueC said:
I do have one more thing to add that might help you. Most guys that I know who paint will ground the car/parts (static) and will wet down the area where they are painting right before shooting. That might help you, but it might be overkill.
Click to expand...

I've been spraying the floor with water right before I paint. I really didn't have the room to try and make a booth which is what I'd planned on doing at first.

I need a bigger garage...


On a side note, for those that might remember I was having issues with the 1/2 ton transmission jack I have. It worked find for some things but wouldn't raise the STaK's t-case up high enough to get it connected to the transmission. I'd bled it 3 different times and did everything I could think of. So I broke down and bought a 1 ton transmission jack from Jegs. It arrived today.

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Got all the painted parts moved outside. Don't have a great spot to store them some I'm using my grandfather's Jeep trailer.

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Now I need to get this one fender tapped off so I can paint the one panel.

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Then I can shoot both with clear and I'll be done with painting for a while.

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YAHOO, the clear is laid down... OK well on one side. I've got a few runs to deal with tomorrow morning but I'm fairly happy with how things have tunred out.

I got both fenders done and the backing for the Savvy skids done.

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And my problem fender looks good too.

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I'll let them dry tonight then flip them over and finish this. Then I can move on. I'm going to take a break from painting for a little bit and get the engine and drivetrain installed. Then I can fab up the fuel lines and layout the wiring harness. I'm hoping I can fire off the engine before I install the axles but get things ready for that. So I might actually see some real progress here in the next few weeks.
 
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