I cut my wiring off near the cup holder area, then put heat shrink over the wires for good form.
Here’s my amp and sub.
Installing a 3rd party amplifier on TJ with factory amp and sub
- Thread starter bobcat
- Start date
I cut my wiring off near the cup holder area, then put heat shrink over the wires for good form.
Here’s my amp and sub.
AdelaideTJ
TJ Enthusiast
That looks really awesome! Did you fabricate the plate and brackets yourself or get a 4WD outfitter to do it? I'd appreciate a copy of the PDF if you have it handy, though I'm not much of a metal worker. I wonder if I could do a Bunnings job with some plywood and some modified off the shelf brackets 
Thanks, man. It's based on setups folks had done before me. I've been super happy with it.
Sure is. I wired the dual 4Ω 6.75" kicker sub to 2Ω.
That looks really awesome! Did you fabricate the plate and brackets yourself or get a 4WD outfitter to do it? I'd appreciate a copy of the PDF if you have it handy, though I'm not much of a metal worker. I wonder if I could do a Bunnings job with some plywood and some modified off the shelf brackets
Hey man, not sure if you were talking to me, but feel free to reach out if you want more details on the parts or tools I used. I purchased everything on Amazon.
IMO, you will be pleasantly surprised if you do it right.
After sanding down the stock enclosure, I ran some JB weld over the sanded areas and ran some dynamat on the large flat areas to add rigidity to the enclosure. (I tried to be sensible when doing this knowing that the additions displaced air volume).
Just run power/ground/signal, then run your speaker wire and RCA's accordingly (very similar to a 4-channel).
Last edited:
I wired up the 6.75" 2Ω DVC kicker sub for 4Ω load and connected it to a Kenwood KAC-M3001 which outputs 200W RMS at 4Ω load.
For some reason, the system falls short of my expectations. The bass from the sub is feeble. I am going to check the ground connections and make sure all other connections are secure. Also there are some LPF and sensitivity settings on the amp. Any ideas what those are?
For some reason, the system falls short of my expectations. The bass from the sub is feeble. I am going to check the ground connections and make sure all other connections are secure. Also there are some LPF and sensitivity settings on the amp. Any ideas what those are?
Last edited:
Terrific! A couple of questions:
- Did you have a 6 channel Head Unit?
- Where did you get the adapters for connecting the RCA cables to the amp?
Yea my guess is you have the wrong subwoofer for what you are trying to do. My amp sees a 2Ω load. Your amp sees a 4Ω load.
Your only other option is to wire the sub so the amp sees 1Ω. It will likely pound compared to the 4Ω load. Unless your amp is 1Ω stable don't expect it to last forever. I considered going that route but decided on a final load of 2Ω.
If you want a final load of 2Ω, you want to get the 4Ω DVC (subwoofer I linked above).
Last edited:
The head unit I chose has Front L/R and Rear L/R, and one jack for a subwoofer. For the subwoofer, you just run a Y-connector to the deck and run both RCAs from the sub into the Y-connector.
I got all adapters from Amazon. I purchased a ton of different options because I geeked out when doing it. I kept extras and returned some. Let me see if I can find the parts that are currently installed.
@bobcat
I had some feedback/noise years ago with single-strand RCAs. Switching to twisted pair solved that, so that's what I prefer to run.
3 ft. twisted pair
Y-Adaptor/Splitter (other options below)
Here is the back of my deck:
Installed:
I had some feedback/noise years ago with single-strand RCAs. Switching to twisted pair solved that, so that's what I prefer to run.
3 ft. twisted pair
Y-Adaptor/Splitter (other options below)
Here is the back of my deck:
Installed:
@bobcat
I had some feedback/noise years ago with single-strand RCAs. Switching to twisted pair solved that, so that's what I prefer to run.
3 ft. twisted pair
Y-Adaptor/Splitter (other options below)
View attachment 404167
Here is the back of my deck:
View attachment 404168
Installed:
View attachment 404171
what head unit is that?
Joying 8.8" single din
I'll be selling mine when I replace the damaged center bezel for a double din.
I have a double din joying in my 97, but I hate how you have to cut so much of the structure away to make it work. I feel like it's barely in there. I would like something like what you have for my '02...double din display in a single din slot. I don't love the joyring compared to my Pioneer, but you pay for what you get.
I do like how it mounts. It's far more sturdy than I anticipated.
I'm going the double din route largely because a PO already removed the divider (took me a while to notice).
Edit: I’m a pioneer fan too, but I want the ability to run the torque pro app.
Last edited:
I intentionally wired the sub using a bridge wire for a 4Ω load. This way the power rating of the sub (75W-150W RMS) somewhat matches the output power of the amp (200W RMS).
Final load of 2Ω will likely smoke the subwoofer since its rated to 150W RMS and the amp will be pushing 300W RMS.
@bobcat
I had some feedback/noise years ago with single-strand RCAs. Switching to twisted pair solved that, so that's what I prefer to run.
3 ft. twisted pair
Y-Adaptor/Splitter (other options below)
View attachment 404167
Here is the back of my deck:
View attachment 404168
Installed:
View attachment 404171
I will pick up that twisted pair cables. Right now I am using the basic bestbuy RCA cables.
Back of the deck is chock-full!
I used to look at it that way, but I moved on to my current reasoning about ten years ago.
IMO, it's all good for the amp's power capability to be higher than a sub can handle...because that means it's an easy life for the amp when you dial back the gain on the amp to match the power requirement of the sub. I specifically try to run a higher-power amp than the subs are rated for, and you can find folks with more experience than me who encourage us not to run an amp at more than 75% of an its power capability (for the longevity of the amp).
You don't have to follow this logic, but it's certainly safe (and arguably safer). I've run Sundown 12"s and 10"s this way long before doing so on this build. It's nice knowing the amp isn't being overworked, and I dial in the power that the subs see so they are happy. Also, working the amp less means less heat and more efficiency.
Side note: I also run a 160-amp Durango alternator (Amazon for $120) to ensure there's sufficient power for all systems, and I run 4awg power/ground wire to limit voltage drop.
Last edited:
AdelaideTJ
TJ Enthusiast
It's pretty pricey, but the Alpine Halo iLX-509A and iLX-511A would suit your needs. Pics of mine installed below, with and without screen on. I went with the 11" which covers the two main dash air vents but I have them directed up and left and right and it seems fine to me (can see in pic how they are angled).
The 9" doesn't obscure the vents as much, but I wanted to huge display. Also you can play around with the mounting height of the floating screen to position it to your liking.
I got the Aerpro 996504 fascia from ebay ($40AUD) to mount it and it fits perfectly. It has a half din slot underneath where I keep some spare cash and stuff out of view (the bottom of the screen covers the slot in the fascia from view)
Last edited:
Similar threads
