Amp connection to factory stereo

Bumble Beep

Member
Original poster
Joined
Aug 26, 2019
Messages
55
Location
Chicago
Hello.
I want to keep my factory stereo, but it'd be nice to add some oomph to the system.

Already added Bluetooth with these two items...
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/mbt-rx-marine-audio-bluetooth-receiver-91126https://www.usaspec.com/p-334-pa11-chr.aspx
Next up are the speakers...
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_663DSHPD03/Select-Increments-Dash-Pods.htmlhttps://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB522/Polk-Audio-DB-522.html
And because I have a factory sub, upgrading to this would be nice...


However, I see two issues; 1. Making the custom spacer in the video (to avoid cutting/modifying the console storage above) and 2. Using the factory stereo to output to a mono amp for the Kicker sub (could use the factory amp, but it's pretty weak).

I can probably make the spacer by hand, but does anyone have a better idea?
As for the amp connection, does the factory stereo have the ability to supply an output signal (other than speaker level)? Could I use the sub speaker level output for an amp?

Thanks.
 
You don't need to add the spacer, just trim the stock box and it will be plug n play.

You probably want to upgrade the amplifier though, the stock one blows, and you could grab a 5 channel amp, or a mono amp.

Look into Kicker, Helix and BLAM over Polk. I honestly did not like the Polks, but I had the 6.5"s. They needed to be tuned more to sound natural. I currently have the Helix and they are fantastic. Tough to find online but if you need an authorized reseller I can pass one along. Same with BLAM, but @Rooscooter may be helpful in locating them.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_975E5X2/HELIX-E-5X-2.html
https://www.blam-audio.com/en/130-rc/
 
How is a factory head unit going to power the Kicker subwoofer?
 
Others have done it, but underpowered and probably no better than the factory sub. That's why I asked about the possibility of connecting an amp to the factory headunit; either using the sub speaker level out or perhaps there is a way to get a line level out direct from the headunit?
 
Yes, if you can do it, it won't have any more power than the factory subwoofer.

As for connecting an amp to the factory head unit, I don't see how that's possible.

As much as you don't want to hear this, you're shooting yourself in the foot by trying to stick with the factory head unit, which is an antiquated piece of technology at this point.
 
There will be no foot shooting! It works, I like the stock look and it has Bluetooth. Just exploring options, since there is a way to get a line in (see Bluetooth addition), I wondered if a line out could be added. Or connect the amp to the sub speaker lines; direct or using an adapter...

1596996445161.webp
 
Thanks for the speaker suggestions.

Others have had issues getting the Kicker sub centered and sitting flat, so I'm thinking the spacer would help?
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...j-wrangler-console-subwoofer.2636/post-484957

I got mine to sit flat but I recently took it out as I am going to build a small box for a shallow mount 8".

Give it a try and see for yourself if your 6.75" Kicker will seat.

You should get a mono amp for this kicker sub though, or a five channel for the entire system.

Yes, if you can do it, it won't have any more power than the factory subwoofer.

As for connecting an amp to the factory head unit, I don't see how that's possible.

As much as you don't want to hear this, you're shooting yourself in the foot by trying to stick with the factory head unit, which is an antiquated piece of technology at this point.

As Chris said an amplifier will give you a lot more bang for your buck with the Kicker. The OEM amplifier is weak, at best.

Chris, Audiotec Fischer, they make a plug and play amp/harness for the stock head unit. I sold one to @Tom18 - it's their lower model of amplifier, the Match line, and those models have PP in their name, which stands for plug and play. This is how it would look with the Match PP52DSP and Chrysler harness that they sell.

IMG_20200523_160352.webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Nice option.
After doing some further research, I realize the Kicker amps do accept high level (speaker) inputs, so I could easily tap into the speaker lines that supply the factory sub.
A lot of the threads here recommend the 42PXA2001 amp, but it's discontinued. Does anyone have experience with the 46CXA4001 (also discontinued, but still available on ebay)? More powerful but bigger and not weather resistant.
 
Nice option.
After doing some further research, I realize the Kicker amps do accept high level (speaker) inputs, so I could easily tap into the speaker lines that supply the factory sub.
A lot of the threads here recommend the 42PXA2001 amp, but it's discontinued. Does anyone have experience with the 46CXA4001 (also discontinued, but still available on ebay)? More powerful but bigger and not weather resistant.
Rather than looking into Amps that have high level input, IMO line out converters would be a better way to go. That way you're not as limited with your AMP choices.

Here's a decent write up you might like, if you haven't looked into LOCs yet.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EYLG1A5kKgw/learn/what-are-line-output-converters.html
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Twopoint
Nice option.
After doing some further research, I realize the Kicker amps do accept high level (speaker) inputs, so I could easily tap into the speaker lines that supply the factory sub.
A lot of the threads here recommend the 42PXA2001 amp, but it's discontinued. Does anyone have experience with the 46CXA4001 (also discontinued, but still available on ebay)? More powerful but bigger and not weather resistant.

Check out Sonic for some gear as well. This could be a good fit. This a mono amp, but if you intend to amplify other channels you should consider a 5 channel amp.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_116615_Kicker-DXA250.1-43DXA2501.html