Line output converter to add amp to stock stereo?

[Frankred]

I called Crutchfield today after reading through @Plumber1's thread. They had me all decked out with about $800 in parts to add a new double din, carplay, android auto, mapping, streaming, touchscreen fancy receiver, double din dash, amp, amp wiring harness to power my currently installed Kicker sub in the stock console enclosure and compliment my 4x Polk DB 521s.

I am having second thoughts about never locking my doors with my soft top with a $400 receiver in the dash. Maybe I can start with just the amp to wake up my sub. It never worked as well as the stock sub until it blew out.

I remembered there are converters to pull an amp signal off of a speaker wire. Can I just T off of the front left speaker wire with this Scosche Line Output Converter and add the Kicker 42PXA200.1 amp to the sub?

By the way, the nice rep that I spoke to said the 42PXA200.1 (25w RMS) is underpowered for my sub 150W RMS (not sure if this is 4ohms or 2). I am assuming that this amp is sufficient since the sub is in the stock, trimmed to fit, plastic enclosure that would be overpowered by a bigger amp driving the sub?

I will definitely be using the cutting board amp mounting method!
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-a-subwoofer-amp-under-steering-column.30518/
Thanks,
John

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

You can absolutely use a line output converter to add an amplifier to the stock stereo. I would never run that one you linked though - I can link you some better options. With that amp and sub combo you would be severely under driving the sub and probably get zero sound out it, let alone the possibility of expensive damage caused by needing to run the amp at max power just to hear anything. For a 125w rms sub, get a 125w or above amp.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

When looking at line output converters, get a 2 channel with a blue power wire coming out of it. That’s the ideal converter for an amp powering a sub.

 

[Frankred]

When looking at line output converters, get a 2 channel with a blue power wire coming out of it. That’s the ideal converter for an amp powering a sub.

This 2 channel LOC has the blue power wire you mentioned. Is this a good one? It has a remote volume knob. Not sure if I would benefit from that. I would hope to mount the amp to my steering column with the adjustments facing the driver's seat.

Thanks for the correction on the amp size. I had seen that one a few times on this forum. I will go for a 125w RMS amp like you suggested. Is that something I can wisely buy used/open box/outlet/refurbished/craigslist? This 46CX400.1T is pretty small. What models would you suggest?

Btw, I bought this 8ga amp wiring kit last night since it delivers in one day.

 

[Goatman]

Many amps today come with both a low level and a line level input. Just wire the speaker output to the amp directly. When ready to do the whole upgrade wire the head unit to the low level inputs.

 

[Frankred]

Many amps today come with both a low level and a line level input. Just wire the speaker output to the amp directly. When ready to do the whole upgrade wire the head unit to the low level inputs.

Makes sense. So this amp with these connectors?
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-r8g0WXW2U6A/p_20646CX41T/Kicker-46CXA400-1T.html?&XVINQ=BIFhttps://www.crutchfield.com/g_481250/Speaker-Wire-to-RCA-Adapters.html
Since I am buying an amp, it seems the stock head unit or most aftermarket head unit are sufficient, so I don't need to go for a 5 channel amp, right? A small form factor amp is definitely going to be appreciated given the space.

 

[112dB]

Makes sense. So this amp with these connectors?
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-r8g0WXW2U6A/p_20646CX41T/Kicker-46CXA400-1T.html?&XVINQ=BIFhttps://www.crutchfield.com/g_481250/Speaker-Wire-to-RCA-Adapters.html
Since I am buying an amp, it seems the stock head unit or most aftermarket head unit are sufficient, so I don't need to go for a 5 channel amp, right? A small form factor amp is definitely going to be appreciated given the space.

That looks about right. Kicker's a great brand and that amp has speaker-level inputs. Call Crutchfield up and talk to one of their advisors just to be sure. I feel like a shill for that company I've recommended them so much on here, but I've had really good experience with them.

 

[Frankred]

That looks about right. Kicker's a great brand and that amp has speaker-level inputs. Call Crutchfield up and talk to one of their advisors just to be sure. I feel like a shill for that company I've recommended them so much on here, but I've had really good experience with them.

Crutchfield scoured their inventory for amps that would work with my 2ohm kicker sub and could not find a good match. I will need to go with a new mono amp and new 4ohm sub...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R250X1/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R250X1.html?cc=02
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWRT672/Kicker-CompRT-43CWRT672.html

 

[112dB]

Crutchfield scoured their inventory for amps that would work with my 2ohm kicker sub and could not find a good match. I will need to go with a new mono amp and new 4ohm sub...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R250X1/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R250X1.html?cc=02
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWRT672/Kicker-CompRT-43CWRT672.html

That's strange.

The Kicker CompRT is a dual 2-ohm sub (2 voice coils) - this means the voice coils can be wired in series for a 4 ohm load or in parallel for a 1 ohm load. That kicker amp is rated down to 1 ohm. At 4 ohms that amp is rated at 150 watts, and at 1 ohm it's rated at 400 watts. I'd think it would be a great match for that sub if you wired it for 4 ohms.

I've got the same subwoofer in my jeep's console - 400 watts is likely overkill, but 150 watts should be just about right. I know that others here on this forum have had success with the Kicker 42PXA2001 matched with that sub.

 

[Frankred]

That's strange.

The Kicker CompRT is a dual 2-ohm sub (2 voice coils) - this means the voice coils can be wired in series for a 4 ohm load or in parallel for a 1 ohm load. That kicker amp is rated down to 1 ohm. At 4 ohms that amp is rated at 150 watts, and at 1 ohm it's rated at 400 watts. I'd think it would be a great match for that sub if you wired it for 4 ohms.

I've got the same subwoofer in my jeep's console - 400 watts is likely overkill, but 150 watts should be just about right. I know that others here on this forum have had success with the Kicker 42PXA2001 matched with that sub.

I linked the wrong model in the OP. My current sub is this one and only supports 2ohm at 150W RMS. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11395_Kicker-CompVT-08CVT652.html

The sub and amp I linked in the last post is the pair they came up with, so I would wire in 4 ohm as you suggested.

 

[Frankred]

That's strange.

The Kicker CompRT is a dual 2-ohm sub (2 voice coils) - this means the voice coils can be wired in series for a 4 ohm load or in parallel for a 1 ohm load. That kicker amp is rated down to 1 ohm. At 4 ohms that amp is rated at 150 watts, and at 1 ohm it's rated at 400 watts. I'd think it would be a great match for that sub if you wired it for 4 ohms.

I've got the same subwoofer in my jeep's console - 400 watts is likely overkill, but 150 watts should be just about right. I know that others here on this forum have had success with the Kicker 42PXA2001 matched with that sub.

I called back for a quick question and the rep I spoke to this time said it was fine to use this amp and just turn down the gain. I ordered it. Kicker 46CXA400.1T

 

[Frankred]

Fyi, I got the amp installed this weekend. During the install I was cussing myself and feeling like I should have 1. Found a smaller amp and 2. Paid someone to install it. Now that it is installed, I don't guess I care as much.
I used a cutting board with zipties. The sound is night and day better than it was. It doesn't rattle teeth like a 12" would, but it does sound good. Thanks for all the input!

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Fyi, I got the amp installed this weekend. During the install I was cussing myself and feeling like I should have 1. Found a smaller amp and 2. Paid someone to install it. Now that it is installed, I don't guess I care as much.
I used a cutting board with zipties. The sound is night and day better than it was. It doesn't rattle teeth like a 12" would, but it does sound good. Thanks for all the input!

View attachment 147062

Just so you know, that is a very low gain setting - unless it tuned specifically for that setting you can get a lot more of of your sub by turning that up 1/4 turn or to the 12 o clock position.

 

[Frankred]

Just so you know, that is a very low gain setting - unless it tuned specifically for that setting you can get a lot more of of your sub by turning that up 1/4 turn or to the 12 o clock position.

Thanks for pointing that out. I was surprised by the default 200hz crossover setting. I set the gain before I realized how high the crossover was. I'll work on tweaking the gain, um, again.