Door won't come off

[BabyBass2]

“M

TJ Jim pointed out earlier that I should jack up the door and leave it like that under constant pressure while securing it to the roof. At the time I didn't think much of it since my garage ceiling is finished off but then I realized I can secure the door to my garage door frame rails. I can't believe I completely missed them, I'm blind. So I'm thinking a floor jack to the door and a ratchet strap pulling on it that is secured to the rail is definitely something to try. Maybe multiple straps or ropes so it doesn't just go swinging if it comes out and I'm not there.

Thats good, but you need to be able to swing the door back and forth. I had to do this on the three TJs I had, if you jack it up with a floor jack, you will not be able to swing the door back and forth while aplying pressure. My idea, which is a bit cumbersome, will allow you to move the door freely from side to side. Matter fact I just got my third TJ, and I had a hard time pulling one of the doors. Is hard to pull them off first, but they will come out if you can swing them. Once they come out, you will have to remove all the corrosion from the pins and the hinges, and you may find a black plastic sleeve inside the hinge that may need to be removed and replaced. Don’t give up, they will come out, you just have to be persistent.

 

[BabyBass2]

Also remember that once you pull them off and clean the hinges and keep them lubed with grease, they come out very easily, you will need to put the nuts back in the hinges pins so the doors are secured.

 

[MikekiM]

I have an idea that might work.... In order to pull it out, you need to be able to move the door in and out while you keep applying penetrant oil, and at the same time you must push it up or pull it up. Do this, if you have the means. Find 1/8” thick strong clothesline wire and build two strong loops right under the door hinges, one on each hinge. Then put a strong rope tied to each wire loop with each rope end, then attach the rope to a hoist and pull the door up with a few pull pounds up, maybe 30-40 lbs up. This set up will allow you to strongly pull the door up but also allow you to move it open and close. I betcha the door will come out in a few minutes. See drawing..... might be a bit dramatic, but I know how hard they get stuck. Remember is the pull up force along with the door swinging and the penetrant oil all working together....

View attachment 326226

Quality drawing...

 

[williambmac]

An air chisel with a hammer bit usually works perfect.
Soak the hinges with a good penetrating oil, loosen the nuts a few turns.
A quick hit with the air chisel should free them right up. Just don't go all berserker and bend the pins.

 

[Irun]

An air chisel with a hammer bit usually works perfect.
Soak the hinges with a good penetrating oil, loosen the nuts a few turns.
A quick hit with the air chisel should free them right up. Just don't go all berserker and bend the pins.

I've done this before and it worked like a charm. In my case the nut snapped off and I had a flattened air chisel tip. One or two short bursts of the trigger and they popped out. Of course this does require someone to hold the door for you. The trick is to not stay on the trigger, which could result in the chisel, depending on size, getting wedged.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

So I know it's been a year, but I got the door off. I soaked the hinge torx bolts in kroil for a week, and they miraculously came out. Then hammering with an air hammer didn't do much on the pin, so I cut the pin out with the small gap that was there between the hinges. Well now the door is free from the pin, but the old pin is stuck to the old hinge.

My question is what is the best replacement lower door hinge that is closest to oem? Going to need oem style hinge very quickly. Between the time it takes for the part to arrive and then get it painted to match, the weather will likely be colder again or more rainy.

Again, this is the lower door hinge with just the two bolts going into the body, not the top hinge or hinge connected to the door. I wanted to get the rugged ridge, but many complain of fitment issues.

 

[MikekiM]

I think I would look for a matched set... body side and door side. You're sending one piece for paint anyway. I just think I would trust potentially mixing brands. Find someone parting out. I see more than a handful of half stripped TJs that are being parted out, so I am sure you could get an OE body side hinge.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

I think I would look for a matched set... body side and door side. You're sending one piece for paint anyway. I just think I would trust potentially mixing brands. Find someone parting out. I see more than a handful of half stripped TJs that are being parted out, so I am sure you could get an OE body side hinge.

I just ordered a shittybilt hinge.

With my LJR I am anal about everything, but this is my orange TJ rust bucket we are talking about, I really could care less about the paint job. It's already ruined in many places rust bubbling etc.

 

[MikekiM]

...Between the time it takes for the part to arrive and then get it painted to match...

...I really could care less about the paint job. It's already ruined in many places rust bubbling etc.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

View attachment 416413

Lol it really doesn't need to be painted to match but it would be weird having one black hinge by its self.


I think I might drill out my old hinge idk I'll see how things go

 

[97' 4 Popper]

I got the door hinge on just to do a test fit, and it seems to shut okay but not 100% smoothly. I think in the process of hammering the pin the hinge on the door side shifted upwards. I can tell because of the bare metal showing and paint peeling off. I think I will have to loosen those 3 as well but for now I guess it's okay. Man this thing is getting uglier by the minute