Moog or Detroit axle?

[LittleGiant]

I’m still attending to figure out this clunking I have.

I think I made a boo-boo and put too much grease in my sway bar links when replacing them and blue the boot.

I also had my Jeep place tell my my front ball joints are shot. I jacked up the Jeep and had no issues with the upper/lower on drivers side, but a solid clunk with a lot of movement on the passenger lower.

Recently replaced the track bar.

Here’s the issue. I’m to the point of reps if everything, and I mean everything.

New tie rods (3 - 2 outer 1 inner)
Sway bar links
Drag mink
Maybe upper and lower control arms.

I’m absolutely over it. I keep hearing about Moog, but I’m doing a lot of research and Detroit Axle (I’ve heard of them) seem like the real deal for a lot of these types of parts.

Thoughts?

 

[TheBoogieman]

I used to use Detroit axle parts. If you have an issue, they want you to pay shipping to return the defective parts. I now use AM-Autoparts over Moog parts. They give you a 10 year warranty on all parts and if you have an issue (within 10 years), they will give you a refund or replace the parts free. No need to return anything.
p.s. For ball joints or u-joints I only use Spicer.

 

[LittleGiant]

Understandable but I’m talking about quality, not the return process. I have spicer for ball joints

 

[JMT]

Understandable but I’m talking about quality, not the return process. I have spicer for ball joints

I think you got your answer.

 

[John Cooper]

Understandable but I’m talking about quality, not the return process. I have spicer for ball joints

I think you got your answer.

Detroit Axle would not be at the top of my list. I have used them in the past 1 time and no more.

Moog is what I would chose between the 2.

I wish I had @Jerry Bransford picture because I would say Moog still better than Rusty's

 

[Obi-Wan]

I now use AM-Autoparts over Moog parts.

I thought you used BOOG parts?

.....and then switched to BOOGER.

I'm so confused.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Thanks to Moogs bad spec on the TRE taper I'm half tempted to try Dorman next time I need one.

They make a "Rugged Duty" like that has an anti corrosion coating (Moog comes bare steel so you have to paint it). I don't know enough about inner workings of rod ends to know if the other claims are marketing mumbo jumbo but all it has to do is last long enough that I can't be sure it didn't last as long.

 

[Vtx531]

I would be worried that "Detroit" Axle may be a cheap China parts importer using the good name of Detroit for free credibility to easily confuse people.

If that's the case, I would not put them in the same tier for quality as Moog. Not even close. Maybe you are mixing up the name American Axle. That would be a high quality OEM supplier. Or Detroit Diesel? I dunno.

Might want to do some further research or make a phone call and ask some questions.

Makes me think of how Harbor Freight tries to make their China crap sound like quality:
Chicago Pneumatic
Pittsburgh Tools
Union Safe Co.
Portland
U.S. General

 

[Vtx531]

delete this please

double post

 

[Johnnyairtime]

I would be worried that "Detroit" Axle may be a cheap China parts importer using the good name of Detroit for free credibility to easily confuse people.

If that's the case, I would not put them in the same tier for quality as Moog. Not even close. Maybe you are mixing up the name American Axle. That would be a high quality OEM supplier. Or Detroit Diesel? I dunno.

So, because you're not familiar with DetroitAxle you lump them into some other Chinesium brands?!

Maybe look them up before responding?
https://www.detroitaxle.com/about/

Even if they're Chinesium, they offer a 10-yr warranty on Ball Joints. Not many do. So that's nice to know. I've heard good things about their products. But as already stated, you do have to send back parts that are being warrantied. When a full set of upper/lower BJs are only $45 you have to wonder if the $25 return shipping is even worth it. Even if they're "decent" parts, sometimes the warranty is just a smoke screen. Always have to look at how the warranty reads on wear parts.

 

[hear]

One of the dudes in my wheeling group has used Detroit Axle ball joints. 3 years of abuse, still holding up. That's just one data point, of course. Well, 4 data points, I guess.

For the tie rod stuff, I did the ZJ upgrade and used moog stuff, and its been ok too.

 

[Johnnyairtime]

One of the dudes in my wheeling group has used Detroit Axle ball joints. 3 years of abuse, still holding up.

Good to know!!

I've been on the research thing for the past couple of days... and how I landed on this thread topic.

I'm ordering SPICER for my JKUR (I used to have an LJ... hence my membership here). I've looked into them all... even Dynatrac and MetalCloak. The cost of a rebuild for the latter, is still the same cost as a set of Spicers. Just less labor in a rebuild than a full replacement. However, I've heard they need to be rebuilt more often. So, with the SPICER I'm hoping to get more miles... or more, bang for my buck. If I'm pulling a tire to rebuild or a knuckle to replace... what's a few hours more?! I usually dedicate the full day anyway, so it's somewhat of a no-brainer to save $500+ on day one.

I priced out and looked into (in order of cost - cheapest to most expensive);
Detroit Axle ($45)
Spicer ($160)
Synergy ($240)
Synergy adjustable ($325)
Dynatrac ($630)
American Iron ($640)
MetalCloak ($700)

 

[hear]

One thing to note on some of those ball joints is that they are knurled, which you probably don't want to use unless you (a) already have knurled joints or (b) have determined you need them.

 

[Coadster32]

I had a bad experience with Detroit Axle, and would not recommend them. Yes, I know that their pricing is very attractive, But I've learned my lesson. I had inferior parts, and a bad customer service experience to go with it. (Not my thread, so I will only elaborate if requested).

 

[DuckNut]

BJs are only $45

I want one!

 

[Don A.]

I’m still attending to figure out this clunking I have.

I think I made a boo-boo and put too much grease in my sway bar links when replacing them and blue the boot.

I also had my Jeep place tell my my front ball joints are shot. I jacked up the Jeep and had no issues with the upper/lower on drivers side, but a solid clunk with a lot of movement on the passenger lower.

Recently replaced the track bar.

Here’s the issue. I’m to the point of reps if everything, and I mean everything.

New tie rods (3 - 2 outer 1 inner)
Sway bar links
Drag mink
Maybe upper and lower control arms.

I’m absolutely over it. I keep hearing about Moog, but I’m doing a lot of research and Detroit Axle (I’ve heard of them) seem like the real deal for a lot of these types of parts.

Thoughts?

I prefer moog. I’ve never had any issues with their parts. In fact once I ordered a tierod end off Amazon and it arrived missing the boot. I called moog and they sent out new boot and hardware asap.
I have heard mixed on the quality of Detroit axle parts.
Personally, I’d try to stay with a reputable brand over saving a few buck unless you absolutely have too.

If you only blew out the boot you can pick up a universal boot from auto for like $8. I just replaced the boot for my drag link last week because I goobered one up.