CJ wheels on a TJ? Sort of...

FireJeep

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So, my M416 has 5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern with a 4" center bore, the same as my old CJ5. I would really have liked to convert it to 5 on 4 1/2" to match my LJ but two problems arose: 1. No one makes an adapter to go from 5 on 5 1/2 to 5 on 4 1/2 due to the lack of material left after machining (don't forget the required 4" center bore) and 2. I really wanted to keep the original axle with the parking brake and straight tube design, etc. So, that leads me to adapting CJ wheels to my LJ. I would like to stick with 16" wheels because at some point when I have enough pennies saved I would like to get @mrblaine's 16" big brake kit. What do you guys think? What kind of back spacing would you recommend? I run 285 75 R16 now.
 
Man, I was really hoping for some input/opinions/advice/ or, at this point, even name calling:confused::tiburon:
 
I'm thinking it could be because you're likely the first person on the forum to ever propose such a conversion. Seems to be a lot of roadblocks to making this work. Will be interesting to see if anyone has a solution/suggestion...
 
What roadblocks to you foresee?
Basically everything you pointed out, my friend. I'm truly not familiar with the wheels, but from what you describe, I'd bet the challenges involved with accomplishing your goal would be enough to dissuade all but a machinist, perhaps.
 
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Pictures Pictures Pictures!

I have never done what you are asking, but I would believe there is a solution. I don't know anything about this, but I think a JK is 5 on 51/2 right? I know they make adapters to put jk wheels on tj's. I wonder if you feel safe to buy that, and bore the center hole? Maybe not? Maybe have custom axles made in the rear and re-drill the drums? Not sure if you disks or drums? For the front maybe a custom hub? I don't have any easy answers, but It might be cheaper/easier to buy new wheels.

I am not sure if you weld or not, but I think YJ's have 5x51/2 (please double check me) If that is the case, you can probably get axles out of a YJ, and weld on the TJ suspension garb. I don't know what mechanic abilities you have, but it sounds like it will be cool if you can work something out.

We need pictures!
 
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I'm thinking it could be because you're likely the first person on the forum to ever propose such a conversion.

I'm going to have to agree with this. I wish I could be of more help, but you're the first person I've heard to propose this conversion. I'm not saying it hasn't been done, but if it has, I just haven't heard of it.

As far as backspacing goes, I'd probably recommend 3.75" to 4" backspacing.
 
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So, here is my thinking, a TJ has 5 on 4 1/2" and the stock wheels are hub centric, I think this means the weight is carried on the center bore as well as the lugs, whereas most other vehicles carry the weight on the lugs. JKs have 5 on 5", not really interested in doing this, remember I am trying to carry one spare. CJs as well as YJs both had early spicer axles (amount others) and had 5 on 5 1/2". I tried to get adapters for the trailer, but due to the 4" bore it is not safe to make the 4 1/2" bolt circle, leaving an 1/8" between the lug and the center bore does not allow for enough strength. On the other hand, adapting a TJ to 5 on 5 1/2" allows for a 1/2" of material between the lugs and the center bore (although the TJ does not require a 4" center bore so the amount of material is even more.)
 
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So, here is my thinking, a TJ has 5 on 4 1/2" and the stock wheels are hub centric, I think this means the weight is carried on the center bore as well as the lugs, whereas most other vehicles carry the weight on the lugs. JKs have 5 on 5", not really interested in doing this, remember I am trying to carry one spare. CJs as well as YJs both had early spicer axles (amount others) and had 5 on 5 1/2". I tried to get adapters for the trailer, but due to the 4" bore it is not safe to make the 4 1/2" bolt circle, leaving an 1/8" between the lug and the center bore does not allow for enough strength. On the other hand, adapting a TJ to 5 on 5 1/2" allows for a 1/2" of material between the lugs and the center bore (although the TJ does not require a 4" center bore so the amount of material is even more.)

Don't quote me on this, but I do not believe that the center hole carries any of the weight on the TJ. I also believe that to be true on any vehicle.

For it to carry the weight it would have to be pressed on. The fact that you can pull it off and on means that there is space. It may be a little space, but any space would mean that it doesn't carry the weight.

For example if I pull my lug nuts off of my tj my wheel will fall right off. I do not even have to muscle it off. That means the bore is bigger than the hub. I hope that makes sense? The lug nuts center and tighten the wheel not the center hub hole. If you think about it, some wheels have a center cap that goes through that hole, and some people lose those. That would mean that the the center cap would be what carried the weight, would would happen if you lost one or broke one and didn't put it back on?

I do agree though that not leaving that much room for you studs may make a difference. Probably less on your trailer depending on size and weight.
 
Don't quote me on this, but I do not believe that the center hole carries any of the weight on the TJ. I also believe that to be true on any vehicle.

For it to carry the weight it would have to be pressed on. The fact that you can pull it off and on means that there is space. It may be a little space, but any space would mean that it doesn't carry the weight.

For example if I pull my lug nuts off of my tj my wheel will fall right off. I do not even have to muscle it off. That means the bore is bigger than the hub. I hope that makes sense? The lug nuts center and tighten the wheel not the center hub hole. If you think about it, some wheels have a center cap that goes through that hole, and some people lose those. That would mean that the the center cap would be what carried the weight, would would happen if you lost one or broke one and didn't put it back on?

I do agree though that not leaving that much room for you studs may make a difference. Probably less on your trailer depending on size and weight.
Pretty sure I read several posts somewhere, if not an entire thread, on this forum regarding hub-centric vs. lug-centric wheels. The thing I like to remember is this: Almost every aftermarket wheel out there is lug-centric. It would be a logistical nightmare for aftermarket manufacturers to try and produce wheels that fit all the various center bore sizes for hub-centric requirements. And like @ac_ said, I agree about the minimum amount of material being left being a concern (regarding modifying your wheels).
 
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IMG_0252.webp
https://www.roughcountry.com/wheel-...MI9MaCnpPf2QIVQ0sNCh2yuwZ4EAQYASABEgISt_D_BwE
 
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YJ's are all 5 x 4.5, same as the TJ. If you really want to do this, I think the best and easiest solution would be call up Revolution Gear and see if they will weld up a set of axles for you in your required bolt pattern. Heck, they might even be drilled there already. This will take care of the rear (once you get discs to match). For the front, you can get a Warn Locking hub set-up in the required bolt pattern. Again, you'll need to change your rotors, but the wheels will bolt right up. It won't be cheap.
 
Thanks sgtjdgelinas, that is what I was hoping for except they need to be 5 x 41/2 to 5 x 5 1/2, does anyone see an issue going this route? Ranger-bob, your suggestion would be awesome, stronger axles, etc. but it is out of my budget range.