Issue with oil pan gasket

xXDavidCXx

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This is my second attempt at fixing a leak around the rear oil pan gasket hump.

I previously replaced the gasket and RMS, mistakes were made putting the pan on but I put it all back together and ran it for a few months until the leaking got on my nerves enough to do something about it.

That brings me to tonight where I removed the previous gasket and found a cut in the rear hump of the gasket, where I suspected it was leaking.

IMG_3867(1).webp


After cleaning up the surfaces and was ready to put the new gasket in, making sure to not make the same mistakes as last time, I noticed a discrepancy that may be causing my issue.

Is the gasket supposed to be like this?

IMG_3869.webp


I think this extra gasket length is causing the hump to push out and get caught on the RMS lip and cutting the gasket like in the above photo.

Do I have the wrong pan, RMS, or gasket?
 
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What brand gasket is that? I used a Fel-Pro that has the clips on the four corners to hold the pan in place while you get the bolts started.

That hump doesn’t look right.

Stock oil pan?
 
What brand gasket is that? I used a Fel-Pro that has the clips on the four corners to hold the pan in place while you get the bolts started.

That hump doesn’t look right.

Stock oil pan?

Fel-pro, and it's an aftermarket pan, the kind that comes with an oil level sensor bung.

When I dry fit the gasket the hump does not sit flush in the groove of the RMS either.

Now I know why the last shop bungled this job so bad.
 
Fel-pro, and it's an aftermarket pan, the kind that comes with an oil level sensor bung.

When I dry fit the gasket the hump does not sit flush in the groove of the RMS either.

Now I know why the last shop bungled this job so bad.

At least you know. Maybe a Dorman pan. I wouldn’t think an oil level sensor bung would be necessary. Just pull the dipstick at the gas station.

I can’t remember what aftermarket pan I have, but it did have a little booger near the hump. I straightened it out with a crescent wrench. Also, the outer lip wouldn’t permit the U-shaped part to fit flush where the two screws go through it. So, I had to grind them off where they would fit inside the channel. Fortunately, it all worked.
 
Looking at part numbers the 4.0 from 1999 is 53007568

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5111265&cc=1431777&pt=5436&jsn=960

For MY 2000 is 53007568AC.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5015442&cc=1363441&pt=5436&jsn=1083

The 2000 version is in stock at rock auto. Is there anything different about the AC version? Any reason I should not try it?

The only reason I can think of is that rock auto screwed me recently. Bought a heater core from them and if you want to return anything, don’t expect to ever talk to a person. Just fill out the forms and hope it all goes well. My problem was there’s no way I’m pulling the heater core before March 14.
 
Well, I installed the pan with the fel-pro gasket, and paid special attention to bolt torques. It took at least 4 times around the pan to get all the bolts torqued correctly.

Time to check for leaks.
 
The pan rails looks warped to me.i would replace it regardless of which gasket you pick. When you dry fit it does it contour the block as it should?

And you said the gasket didn't fit the block?
 
When you dry fit it does it contour the block as it should?
It's hard to tell 100% but it appears fine
And you said the gasket didn't fit the block?
It fits, just loosely at the hump over the rear bearing, but maybe that's normal and maybe that part of the gasket gets squeezed into the slot around the bearing cover.
 
When i clearanced my pan for the stroker crank and forged rods i don't remember the gasket bowing out like that. It was upside down on an engine stand when it got installed so i had a good view. Btw,only use rtv in the corners where the flat meets the bow
 
Btw,only use rtv in the corners where the flat meets the bow

Agree, all that RTV can hydraulically push the gasket out of place, use sparingly in the corners only. (I've used a very thin layer of yellow weatherstrip adhesive on the flat parts to stick them to the surface to aid in assembly)
 
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Filled the pan with oil and overnight it dripped on the floor from the rear.

The RMS may be leaking still. More investigation required.
 
Filled the pan with oil and overnight it dripped on the floor from the rear.

The RMS may be leaking still. More investigation required.

Did you ever figure this out? Struggling with gasket cuts at the pan hump as well and noticed the same ill fitment concern....RA fel pro blue gasket every time...all 3...
 
Did you ever figure this out? Struggling with gasket cuts at the pan hump as well and noticed the same ill fitment concern....RA fel pro blue gasket every time...all 3...

Aftermarket oil pan? I had this same problem with an aftermarket pan. I finally took it off and bought another new pan/gasket and the gasket dry fit on the new pan perfectly. Definitely a bad stamping on the pan that I had. It wasn't the Felpro gasket.

If it doesnt dry fit perfect, don't install it.
 
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Aftermarket oil pan? I had this same problem with an aftermarket pan. I finally took it off and bought another new pan/gasket and the gasket dry fit on the new pan perfectly. Definitely a bad stamping on the pan that I had. It wasn't the Felpro gasket.

If it doesnt dry fit perfect, don't install it.

It (gasket) didn't dry fit all that well on the rear main cap...I didn't try it on the pan....but yes...Dorman or spectra pan....i will never replace a nonleaking pan just because it is dented ever again...
 
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Dorman was the bad one for me, Spectra was the good one. Not sure that means anything though - probably a crapshoot with any of the Chinese pans.
 
Did you ever figure this out? Struggling with gasket cuts at the pan hump as well and noticed the same ill fitment concern....RA fel pro blue gasket every time...all 3...

I ended up with a mopar pan and the rear hump of the gasket fit better.

IMG_3940.webp


This was the aftermarket pan fitment
IMG_3939.webp
 
Still doesnt look right. Does it fit snug if you lightly push the gasket down?

I think it fits fine when compressed. It’s installed now and I don’t think leaks from this area.

I still have a slow leak from the RMS area, even after using all the forum approved tips, and using an offset RMS.

At this point it’s the 4th or 5th reinstall of the oil pan and the leaking is reduced to an acceptable level.