Towing this pig

Yup, that’s becoming a fairly valid option for us, i think.

We do the same. And breaking is a non issue. We had a friend in our group who flat tows like us. He broke. We drove his RV 30 miles to the nearest Uhaul and rented a car hauler to bring it home.
 
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I forgot to mention… unless you are Debbie Dootson plan your entrance and exit to gas stations and other parking lots, there is no backing up when flat towing.

the only spot to park at a hotel one night had to be backed into. I had Mrs App steer the jeep while I backed up the truck. Worked but not well.
 
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Understood! Thanks for clarifying.

What I was reading on the F150 forum and in our manual is that we have a factory 2” class 4 hitch already. The caveat is that even with that class 4 hitch you have to use a WDH past 500/5000 lbs up to our 7600lb tow rating.

Does that sound right?

Yes. I recommend the Husky Center Line. I love mine. I have an Equal-i-zer and I don't like it at all. Andy
 
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the only spot to park at a hotel one night had to be backed into. I had Mrs App steer the jeep while I backed up the truck. Worked but not

All due respect, can i ask, was it an option to disconnect the Jeep and back it separately? Seems like it might’ve been easier?

Or maybe that just takes more time/effort overall with your setup?

I’ve only flat towed short distances around town with other, older Jeeps.
 
All due respect, can i ask, was it an option to disconnect the Jeep and back it separately? Seems like it might’ve been easier?

Or maybe that just takes more time/effort overall with your setup?

I’ve only flat towed short distances around town with other, older Jeeps.

It was about midnight so I didn’t feel like messing with it. We got it done. Definitely could have unhooked.
 
It was about midnight so I didn’t feel like messing with it. We got it done. Definitely could have unhooked.

10-4, thanks for the info!

I’ve definitely been there, rolling into camp or a road-trip hotel at oh-dark-thirty after a long road-stint. ☺️👍🏻
 
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You can pull more than you can stop in an emergency. In SoCal it’s hard not to need to climb and descend a major grade. Assholes will always pull in front of you to exit even when there is no one behind you. I have a tow bar for my YJ but I trailer both the YJ and TJ now. I pull with 3/4 ton Suburban or F250. My Sierra 1500 sags way too much with any trailer that would carry an vehicle. A load distributing hitch is worth every penny. I’ve pulled vehicles and equipment through most of the US and other than blown tires and a spun bearing thankfully I’ve had no big issues I have 8 trailers ranging from 1k to 18K and 14’ to 30’. I think I may have issues.

IMG_2207.jpeg
 
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Just realized another option. Upgrade our hitch from a class 3 to a class 4. That would bring our hitch rating to 1000/10000 without a complicated weight distribution setup.

Is this as much of a plug and play option as it seems?

I'd still run the WD hitch. It will transfer weight thru the truck's frame to the front end. That helps with steering and overall stability.
 
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I'd still run the WD hitch. It will transfer weight thru the truck's frame to the front end. That helps with steering and overall stability.

Life was better when I had as close to 20k on the steers and 46k on a tandem or 60k on a tri-axle. Learned that as a wee lad hauling Allison transmissions in a Ford MF'n Ranger. Would try and turn them as sideways as I could when hauling one or having two all the way forward in the bed.
 
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I'm buying another '03 TJ soon but it's in SoCal. I'm using my tow dolly w/E-brakes behind my '16 4-Runner. It's got a 5k tow rating.
I've also got a 14' car carrier w/brakes on both axles but, over all it's too heavy to drag behind the 4-Runner with the Jeep on it.
So the dolly is going to be it. I'm going to remove the rear driveshaft and make sure the rear diff has enough gear oil in it.
And I've made my own auxiliary towing lights that will slip into the 2" receiver on the Jeep.

Also the Jeep is a little lighter because it was stolen and they took the full doors and hardtop.
But was recovered 2 days later stuck in the mud. I'm buying it from my S-I-L.
 
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Still considering my options. When considering a flat tow setup - where to mount the base plates becomes a question.

My front bumper(a non "towing rated" Garvin Wilderness bumper.) has face-welded d-ring shackle mounts (seen below) that sit at about 23-24" on center.
  • If you were to mount tow bracket base plates - where would you mount them?
  • Would you just drill through and mount them outboard of the d-shackles?

IMG_7443.JPG
 
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Still considering my options. When considering a flat tow setup - where to mount the base plates becomes a question.

My front bumper(a non "towing rated" Garvin Wilderness bumper.) has face-welded d-ring shackle mounts (seen below) that sit at about 23-24" on center.
  • If you were to mount tow bracket base plates - where would you mount them?
  • Would you just drill through and mount them outboard of the d-shackles?

View attachment 508614

You want tow points to attach in a way that they tie into the frame, otherwise all the force is acting on the face of the bumper, which would be the same as using your face-welded d-rings to tow with. Granted, if the d-rings have been used for recovery, they've probably been subjected to the same or more force than they would be if used for towing. The d-rings *might* be ok to tow with - or they might not.

When looking at setting up mine for flat towing, I found that no bumper manufacturer would specifically 'tow rate' their front bumpers, which I'm sure is to limit liabilty exposure.

I run the OEM front bumper and had these tow brackets fabbed to bolt right into the frame. Tough to say if that could be an option by looking at your bumper. If not, another option would be tow brackets that attach to the underside of the frame rails. Roadmaster, Blue Ox, Currie and others make a variety of brackets specifically for flat towing. Couple examples...

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9033TJ
https://www.etrailer.com/Base-Plates/Jeep/TJ/2006/RM-521424-5.html?VehicleID=200654517

20230915_060444.jpg
 
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You want tow points to attach in a way that they tie into the frame, otherwise all the force is acting on the face of the bumper, which would be the same as using your face-welded d-rings to tow with. Granted, if the d-rings have been used for recovery, they've probably been subjected to the same or more force than they would be if used for towing. The d-rings *might* be ok to tow with - or they might not.

When looking at setting up mine for flat towing, I found that no bumper manufacturer would specifically 'tow rate' their front bumpers, which I'm sure is to limit liabilty exposure.

I run the OEM front bumper and had these tow brackets fabbed to bolt right into the frame. Tough to say if that could be an option by looking at your bumper. If not, another option would be tow brackets that attach to the underside of the frame rails. Roadmaster, Blue Ox, Currie and others make a variety of brackets specifically for flat towing. Couple examples...

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9033TJ
https://www.etrailer.com/Base-Plates/Jeep/TJ/2006/RM-521424-5.html?VehicleID=200654517

View attachment 508643
Thanks for the info, Dave. Saw both those options online. Neither of those options with my bumper and swaybar system, but overall I definitely hear what you're saying.
I think my best bet might be bolt-through tow brackets, or possibly having a shop retrofit my current bumper with more reinforcement for the D-ring mounts, since they're at just about the perfect spacing that most tow-bar companies list.
 
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