Yup, that’s becoming a fairly valid option for us, i think.
I forgot to mention… unless you are Debbie Dootson plan your entrance and exit to gas stations and other parking lots, there is no backing up when flat towing.
Yup, that’s becoming a fairly valid option for us, i think.
Yup, that’s becoming a fairly valid option for us, i think.
I forgot to mention… unless you are Debbie Dootson plan your entrance and exit to gas stations and other parking lots, there is no backing up when flat towing.
Understood! Thanks for clarifying.
What I was reading on the F150 forum and in our manual is that we have a factory 2” class 4 hitch already. The caveat is that even with that class 4 hitch you have to use a WDH past 500/5000 lbs up to our 7600lb tow rating.
Does that sound right?
the only spot to park at a hotel one night had to be backed into. I had Mrs App steer the jeep while I backed up the truck. Worked but not
All due respect, can i ask, was it an option to disconnect the Jeep and back it separately? Seems like it might’ve been easier?
Or maybe that just takes more time/effort overall with your setup?
I’ve only flat towed short distances around town with other, older Jeeps.
It was about midnight so I didn’t feel like messing with it. We got it done. Definitely could have unhooked.
Just realized another option. Upgrade our hitch from a class 3 to a class 4. That would bring our hitch rating to 1000/10000 without a complicated weight distribution setup.
Is this as much of a plug and play option as it seems?
I'd still run the WD hitch. It will transfer weight thru the truck's frame to the front end. That helps with steering and overall stability.
I'd still run the WD hitch. It will transfer weight thru the truck's frame to the front end. That helps with steering and overall stability.
I wish I could afford an aluminum trailer...
-Mac
My Sierra 1500 sags way too much with any trailer that would carry an vehicle
Still considering my options. When considering a flat tow setup - where to mount the base plates becomes a question.
My front bumper(a non "towing rated" Garvin Wilderness bumper.) has face-welded d-ring shackle mounts (seen below) that sit at about 23-24" on center.
- If you were to mount tow bracket base plates - where would you mount them?
- Would you just drill through and mount them outboard of the d-shackles?
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Thanks for the info, Dave. Saw both those options online. Neither of those options with my bumper and swaybar system, but overall I definitely hear what you're saying.You want tow points to attach in a way that they tie into the frame, otherwise all the force is acting on the face of the bumper, which would be the same as using your face-welded d-rings to tow with. Granted, if the d-rings have been used for recovery, they've probably been subjected to the same or more force than they would be if used for towing. The d-rings *might* be ok to tow with - or they might not.
When looking at setting up mine for flat towing, I found that no bumper manufacturer would specifically 'tow rate' their front bumpers, which I'm sure is to limit liabilty exposure.
I run the OEM front bumper and had these tow brackets fabbed to bolt right into the frame. Tough to say if that could be an option by looking at your bumper. If not, another option would be tow brackets that attach to the underside of the frame rails. Roadmaster, Blue Ox, Currie and others make a variety of brackets specifically for flat towing. Couple examples...
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9033TJ
https://www.etrailer.com/Base-Plates/Jeep/TJ/2006/RM-521424-5.html?VehicleID=200654517
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