Electric window kit for a TJ question
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Ehhh. I’ll answer.
There are cheap kits on Amazon for about $75. The instructions suck, but if you have some deductive skills, you can figure it out just by looking at a few of the photos. I didn’t like the switches or wiring that came with my kit, so I bought a second switch harness that had some better switches and I changed the design. Rather than have two switches on the driver door and one on the passenger, I installed the driver side pair of switches next to my shifter. I changed the harness design as well not daisy chain three switches together. Each switch has a direct connection to the door motor and then they share a higher amp/gauge wire and fuse.
Instructions say you need 300mm between the motor and the drive gear. That’s more than you’ll have room for. So do your best installing the motor behind your pocket and it *should work.
My only problem is my window tracks are binding/causing my window to struggle going up/down on the driver side, but this was a problem even with the crank. I’ve been lubing the tracks with tri-flow but it only helps so much. So be sure that your windows freely go up and down or you might risk burning the motors out (mine get pretty hot).
There are cheap kits on Amazon for about $75. The instructions suck, but if you have some deductive skills, you can figure it out just by looking at a few of the photos. I didn’t like the switches or wiring that came with my kit, so I bought a second switch harness that had some better switches and I changed the design. Rather than have two switches on the driver door and one on the passenger, I installed the driver side pair of switches next to my shifter. I changed the harness design as well not daisy chain three switches together. Each switch has a direct connection to the door motor and then they share a higher amp/gauge wire and fuse.
Instructions say you need 300mm between the motor and the drive gear. That’s more than you’ll have room for. So do your best installing the motor behind your pocket and it *should work.
My only problem is my window tracks are binding/causing my window to struggle going up/down on the driver side, but this was a problem even with the crank. I’ve been lubing the tracks with tri-flow but it only helps so much. So be sure that your windows freely go up and down or you might risk burning the motors out (mine get pretty hot).
I installed Electric Life window winders and door locks several years ago. They have been trouble free. The standard location for the window switches is where the crank handles used to be but it is much preferable to mount them higher up and further forward so your knee doesn’t hit them.
I will pay for electric motors and get rid of hand cranks.
As will most other Americans. An answer to a question nobody was asking.
Power locks are another answer to a question nobody was asking. There are only two things I want on a vehicle beyond the basics like a motor and steering wheel: A/C and cruise control. I don't even care if it has a radio or not, I've owned more than one vehicle that didn't.
You obviously don't live in Florida.
When I lived in Commiefornia, A/C was purely optional. Not here in Fl.
Got it, just wanted clarification, since you seem to be the anti-tech guy around here.
Your decision is based on how useful that feature is to you personally, and not it’s usefulness to the average consumer or how mechanically simple it is.
My decisions on such things are based on "What real benefit does this give me?" as well as "What is the price that must be paid?"
Benefit: I get ———- from my girlfriend.
Price to be paid: $70
Sometimes the benefit is indirect and very real.
Should we start a 4.0 with a hand crank too? Maybe add a spark advance lever? Steer it with a stick?
I enjoy starting my truck with my iPhone.
Don't be stupid. There's always somebody with a dumb ass comment like this.