1999 TJ has a fluttering / clacking sound in drive and sometimes in park

[Jerry Bransford]

I don't recall the dipstick tube having anything more than a friction fit. I sure don't believe there's an e-torx involved.

Shift linkage is off! Now the dipstick tube must be removed - from what i understand and observe, it's an e-torx bolt that must be approached from the engine compartment. Need to get the proper tool for this.

If you're talking about what holds the upper part of the tube to the tub it should be nothing more than a standard 3/8-16 hex nut. The only e-torx on the transmission is one E-12 that is one of the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.

 

[H_E_H]

I don't recall the dipstick tube having anything more than a friction fit. I sure don't believe there's an e-torx involved.

If you're talking about what holds the upper part of the tube to the tub it should be nothing more than a standard 3/8-16 hex nut. The only e-torx on the transmission is one E-12 that is one of the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.

Jerry, thank you for confirming! The dipstick tube does appear nothing more than friction fit - that's exactly what I saw while filming down there with my phone to get a better understanding. I did find the E-12 e-torx while filming with my phone, too! By thew, I just paid for a membership here. Really appreciate everybody's help and patience with me! LOL

 

[hear]

Shift linkage is off! Now the dipstick tube must be removed - from what i understand and observe, it's an e-torx bolt that must be approached from the engine compartment. Need to get the proper tool for this.

Maybe maybe not. I had no e-torx on my transmission. Also take note of the exact positioning & depth of your dipstick. Mine has never gone back to how it was before I messed with it, and now it won't bolt up to the bell housing AND it leaks like a sieve unless I use a gallon of The Right Stuff. I would say put a band of tape around the tube exactly where it meets the trans case so you'll have a reference point.

 

[H_E_H]

Okay, the new bunt cake torque converter is installed! I've a few questions:
I've seen a video stating I'll need to grease the hub (see pic.) Do you all recommend I apply grease?
Also, the symbol aligns to what on the flexplate? Thanks in advance, Guys.

 

[H_E_H]

I resumed work on this project and am pretty sure I'm over my head in scope and know-how to see it to completion. Not sure i can properly reassemble everything and get the TJ running again. I will most likely sell or donate, though I need to get the transmission, axles, and skid plate back in place in order get it off the jack stands. Or is there anyone I can hire to get it put together properly here in our garage? Open to suggestions. Thanks.

 

[hear]

I hate to see you resort to selling it in a state of disrepair. It can look like a lot, but really it's just a series of small steps. Maybe help us understand where you're at, and we can recommend a plan of attack?

 

[H_E_H]

I hate to see you resort to selling it in a state of disrepair. It can look like a lot, but really it's just a series of small steps. Maybe help us understand where you're at, and we can recommend a plan of attack?

Small steps for sure. Progress is going, but I'm not sure I'm doing install correctly.

Currently Attempting to re-attach the transmission housing. It appears there were four bolts removed (one with a nut). I've attached them all, however I haven't yet closed the gap (see video). There's a black, plastic sensor on a cord and, from my dissemble pics, I cannot determine what to do with it nor attached it to. I'm also concerned I'm overlooking something crucial when it's time to attach the flexplate to the torque converter

 

[hear]

that sounds like it's the crank position sensor, it goes on the belhousing around 11 o'clock.

EDIT: yes, definitely the crank posistion sensor.

As far as the mating goes, are you certain you have the torque converter fully seated? It will go in 3 notches, and you'll want it fully seated before you try to actually mate it all up. Then do your best to line up those dowels at 3 & 9 oclock. Once you have those lined up you can put those 2 big bolts through, and then it should slide in the rest of the way. I'll usually tighten those a little to draw it in. It's a whole lot of jacking, positioning, pushing, tighening, lowering, swearing, etc.

I love working on transmissions but I absolutely HATE installing them.

 

[H_E_H]

that sounds like it's the crank position sensor, it goes on the belhousing around 11 o'clock.

EDIT: yes, definitely the crank posistion sensor.
Thanks
As far as the mating goes, are you certain you have the torque converter fully seated? It will go in 3 notches, and you'll want it fully seated before you try to actually mate it all up. Then do your best to line up those dowels at 3 & 9 oclock. Once you have those lined up you can put those 2 big bolts through, and then it should slide in the rest of the way. I'll usually tighten those a little to draw it in. It's a whole lot of jacking, positioning, pushing, tighening, lowering, swearing, etc.
Yeah, torque converter is fully seated. It did indeed go three notches. No dowels, but I believe I need additional tightening on the bolts to bring the housing in more
I love working on transmissions but I absolutely HATE installing them. I bet. My big concern is putting everything back and tucked under that crossmember and then having to go back in for adjustments. I know I'll probably need to do some tweaking of the axles. Thanks for your reply and assist.

 

[hear]

Those dowels are fairly important; they locate the transmission relative to the crank/flexplate. I had friend who didn't have the dowels and he kept tearing up pump seals until we figured out that the dowels kinda matter.

 

[H_E_H]

Those dowels are fairly important; they locate the transmission relative to the crank/flexplate. I had friend who didn't have the dowels and he kept tearing up pump seals until we figured out that the dowels kinda matter.

They're there! I guess I was picturing something else, however I looked them up, saw and recognized them. I'll move forward putting this all back to get again, but definitely going to donate or try to sell as is. Just not my forte.

 

[macleanflood]

Typically you don't want to draw together the engine and transmission with the bolts.

A lot of folks will get longer transmission bolts... usually one per side...cut the head off, slot it with a cut off wheel...then you have a pin (not to be confused with the dowel) to line up and slide the transmission on

Then you install other bolts, unscrew your pins with a flat blade screwdriver and install the original bolts.

I did a frame and tub swap in eight days...you've got this...you can do it.

-Mac

 

[H_E_H]

Typically you don't want to draw together the engine and transmission with the bolts.

A lot of folks will get longer transmission bolts... usually one per side...cut the head off, slot it with a cut off wheel...then you have a pin (not to be confused with the dowel) to line up and slide the transmission on

Then you install other bolts, unscrew your pins with a flat blade screwdriver and install the original bolts.

I did a frame and tub swap in eight days...you've got this...you can do it.

-Mac

That's a brilliant approach and I recall when I undertook this project, hearing or reading something similar for the reinstall. Thanks! You guys are immensely positive and encouraging. It keeps me going back in there with some resolve. Much thanks.

 

[hear]

Having a 2nd set of hands helps a bunch. You have to get the angle just right and push in just the right way, and then it will magically go in.


It's kinda like prom night.

 

[H_E_H]

Having a 2nd set of hands helps a bunch. You have to get the angle just right and push in just the right way, and then it will magically go in.


It's kinda like prom night.

Out youngest son has been helping me, but he's worked the last two days. He's really good with vehicles. Thanks for the Friday laugh, btw.

 

[macleanflood]

It's kinda like prom night.

Grease those pins! Never can have enough lube.

When I was doing my AX-15 for the sixth time or so I got frustrated and yanked it up and down really hard and of course it slid right in.

Automatics are easier that manuals...no splines to line up.

-Mac

 

[H_E_H]

I still have this automatic TJ gutted and want to get rid of it. I have a brand new torque converter filled with ATF +4. The housing is not attached and strapped to a broken Harbor Freight transmission jack. If I donate, can it be moved with the unsupported engine? I would guess the engine could be strapped, however the vehicle is on four jack stands with the housing and tranny jack trapped underneath. I just want to get rid of it at this point. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

I also have manual 2002 TJ with 70K miles (profile pic). No issues. I'd like to sell it. This hobby/interest is not for me. I'm over it and would like it to go to an appreciated owner.

 

[hear]

You mean you're over the entire TJ experience? I never thought I'd say this, but man, I wish I were in California right now. My rapidly-approaching-driving-age teenager wants a jeep. Makes me tear up I'm so proud.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

Seconding the "wish I was in CA" button - what I wouldn't give for a non rust-belt frame and front axle...