Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Mildly Out of Hand 02 Sahara Build

Hmm…interested in your coil over setup. I’ve looked into the GR Alien tank to stretch. I think it’s about 10” rear stretch.

I did not want to compromise fuel capacity, and am not at all interested in a comp cut which is why I stayed away from that model. My setup is really simple. Poly towers and axle side mounts, universal poly bump cans and "budget bumps" frenched into the frame, home made bump pads on the axle. Pair that with limit straps of your choice and done. I also had to cut my floors a little bit to clear the upper links at full bump, but that was 6" up with 2" lift. I clearanced the crossmember for the truss as well. Someday I'd like to put a rear anti rock.


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It has no binding or issues anywhere except my tire lightly rubs the top of the coil at full flex. That problem will go away with the JK axles
 
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I did not want to compromise fuel capacity, and am not at all interested in a comp cut which is why I stayed away from that model. My setup is really simple. Poly towers and axle side mounts, universal poly bump cans and "budget bumps" frenched into the frame, home made bump pads on the axle. Pair that with limit straps of your choice and done. I also had to cut my floors a little bit to clear the upper links at full bump, but that was 6" up with 2" lift. I clearanced the crossmember for the truss as well. Someday I'd like to put a rear anti rock.


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It has no binding or issues anywhere except my tire lightly rubs the top of the coil at full flex. That problem will go away with the JK axles

Somehow I missed the coilovers. That’s all packaged in there tightly. I was under the impression it was difficult, if not impossible, to get coilovers on a stock width TJ axle. 😳 It solves a couple of problems. Nice adjustable bumps and axle pad.
 
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Somehow I missed the coilovers. That’s all packaged in there tightly. I was under the impression it was difficult, if not impossible, to get coilovers on a stock width TJ axle. 😳 It solves a couple of problems. Nice adjustable bumps and axle pad.

It wasn't easy at least for me setting all of it up. It was really my first non-bolt on undertaking for this thing. I also did it on a lift where I used to work when I was in college so cycling, welding, and cutting everything else off was much quicker due to being able to stand underneath. That being said it still took me two full weekends with the help of 3 friends to finish the rear suspension alone.

It also does have the one major compromise of wheel spacers. I'm at around 3" of effective backspacing and I still barely rub the coil at full flex. I always knew when I built this that a wider axle would be in this rig's future so it doesn't bother me. If you had an lj or tank fuel cell in the "bed" maybe you could sink the shock towers past the frame and probably mitigate those problems but it would open another can of worms. I've been running this setup for about a year and a half and am extremely happy with how it does.

I think the jk axles, front c/o setup, tuning the shocks, a rear swaybar, and an atlas would leave me with a very nice wheeling rig that still does fine on the street. Keeping the ability to drive it on the street to trails or work is important to me. Too many people I know got burnt out on rigs that lived on the trailer making moderate trails like the rubicon not as fun. If I lived 30 min from JV I wouldn't waste my time with Jk axles, but its also a budgetary thing too. I also built everything on this round of mods with 37s in mind, so I really shouldn't have to change too much when swapping stuff over.
 
It wasn't easy at least for me setting all of it up. It was really my first non-bolt on undertaking for this thing. I also did it on a lift where I used to work when I was in college so cycling, welding, and cutting everything else off was much quicker due to being able to stand underneath. That being said it still took me two full weekends with the help of 3 friends to finish the rear suspension alone.

It also does have the one major compromise of wheel spacers. I'm at around 3" of effective backspacing and I still barely rub the coil at full flex. I always knew when I built this that a wider axle would be in this rig's future so it doesn't bother me. If you had an lj or tank fuel cell in the "bed" maybe you could sink the shock towers past the frame and probably mitigate those problems but it would open another can of worms. I've been running this setup for about a year and a half and am extremely happy with how it does.

I think the jk axles, front c/o setup, tuning the shocks, a rear swaybar, and an atlas would leave me with a very nice wheeling rig that still does fine on the street. Keeping the ability to drive it on the street to trails or work is important to me. Too many people I know got burnt out on rigs that lived on the trailer making moderate trails like the rubicon not as fun. If I lived 30 min from JV I wouldn't waste my time with Jk axles, but its also a budgetary thing too. I also built everything on this round of mods with 37s in mind, so I really shouldn't have to change too much when swapping stuff over.

Cool. At least you'll be able to mitigate the 3"BS with the wider JK axles. That and you planned well for where you are going.

My long term plans involve moving the arch back and putting the gas tank in the bed. Keeping the ability to drive it on the street is important to me too. But getting to the stretch phase is a long way off for me. I've still got passengers.
 
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Does anyone actually know if JK axles really gain you any width to the inside of the tire? Sure, the WMS measurement is wider, but the wheels have quite a bit more backspacing too (5+ inches is pretty common, even on aftermarket). Compare that with a typical backspace from a TJ (3.75) and I don't know that the JK axles will gain you all that much effective clearance.
 
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Does anyone actually know if JK axles really gain you any width to the inside of the tire? Sure, the WMS measurement is wider, but the wheels have quite a bit more backspacing too (5+ inches is pretty common, even on aftermarket). Compare that with a typical backspace from a TJ (3.75) and I don't know that the JK axles will gain you all that much effective clearance.

That is true. It will gain me a few inches, which is really all I need and it will take some of the stress of the ball joints wheel bearings as well without me having to run a spacer combined with lower backspacing. The strength increase is also a huge plus for me. There are a few people on here I think running similar setups. @sierradmax is one who comes to mind. He's running 37s with 14" travel shocks I believe. I don't think my 12s will have any issue cycling if I choose a wheel with 4.5" BS or whatever the the common sizes end up being.
 
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That is true. It will gain me a few inches, which is really all I need and it will take some of the stress of the ball joints wheel bearings as well without me having to run a spacer combined with lower backspacing. The strength increase is also a huge plus for me. There are a few people on here I think running similar setups. @sierradmax is one who comes to mind. He's running 37s with 14" travel shocks I believe. I don't think my 12s will have any issue cycling if I choose a wheel with 4.5" BS or whatever the the common sizes end up being.

I was curious, so I went digging.

TJ WMS is 60.5
JK WMS is 65.5

so, net gain of 2.5" per side.

I know my AEV wheels for a JK is 5.2'ish inches backspacing. Raceline looks like they have 4.75 and 5.75 depending on wheel width, Looks like you can get a method in about 3.5"

So, combining the info with a "standard" 3.75" backspaced TJ wheel, you would gain 1.5" per side at 4.75" backspacing, for example.
 
I was curious, so I went digging.

TJ WMS is 60.5
JK WMS is 65.5

so, net gain of 2.5" per side.

I know my AEV wheels for a JK is 5.2'ish inches backspacing. Raceline looks like they have 4.75 and 5.75 depending on wheel width, Looks like you can get a method in about 3.5"

So, combining the info with a "standard" 3.75" backspaced TJ wheel, you would gain 1.5" per side at 4.75" backspacing, for example.

I've been wondering that too. Especially with my current 15x10, 3.75" backspace wheels. The difference is a fraction of an inch if the jk axles have balljoint and wheelbearing saving stock backspacing wheels. The balljoints have a different angle (camber?inclination?) jk to tj also. It makes me wonder how a jk would drive with shallow backspacing like a tj.
 
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I was curious, so I went digging.

TJ WMS is 60.5
JK WMS is 65.5

so, net gain of 2.5" per side.

I know my AEV wheels for a JK is 5.2'ish inches backspacing. Raceline looks like they have 4.75 and 5.75 depending on wheel width, Looks like you can get a method in about 3.5"

So, combining the info with a "standard" 3.75" backspaced TJ wheel, you would gain 1.5" per side at 4.75" backspacing, for example.

Thats pretty much what my math ended up at. That width should be all I need with a 12.5 wide tire. I could also run something with slightly less backspacing if need be but I think I'll be fine.
 
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Thats helpful data. Are you running 2.5s or 2.0s?

2.0 coilovers.

The front is more forgiving than the rear. I could fully cycle the suspension and steering, up front, with stock JK WMS, 37's, and 4.5" BS wheels. I did rub just a little on the inside right tire against the LCA when full droop.

I had a very small area on the rear axle to place the mount. With frenched towers, I have a credit card gap between the coilover and tower, when suspension cycled and the tire was rubbing on the opposite side. This was with JK WMS, 37's and 4.5 BS.

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The coilovers helped with the non arch moving. I like the aesthetic looks of moving the arch but it wasn't necessary for my purposes. Right now its at 7.5" up 4.5" down which isn't ideal. When I originally set it up it was 6" up 6" on essentially 2" of lift. I ended up raising it when I did the front mid arm with spring preload.
View attachment 567986I planned on getting back to 50/50 bias using different eyelets (like the ones shown) but figured I may as well wait for the axle swap rather than make new bump pads etc. I'm going to play with spring rates and tuning once I have it sitting at it's final ride height and wheelbase.

Edit: I think genright also told me you could get 7" in the rear with a dana 44 and that tank. I can send pictures of diff clearance if you'd like.

I could only get 6" with the comp 20. I may be able to squeeze another 1/2" but I didn't want to cut the armor any further.

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I could only get 6" with the comp 20. I may be able to squeeze another 1/2" but I didn't want to cut the armor any further.

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Your setup looks really nice. I’m also running a stock style diff cover for now so maybe that’s why I have so much extra room. I also don’t want to remove any more from the corner from where it’s at now if possible. Thanks for the help
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator