Processes for Painting Steel

[JMT]

I'm researching in preparation for my next mod, which will require my painting process to perhaps go beyond a mere degrease, self-etching primer and rattle can. The object will be bare steel and once installed needs to be able to take a beating. Especially @mrblaine as I noticed in the recent build thread of the LJ where TPE terminology was introduced that the paint job on the Savvy sliders looked nice. I'm not sure if that was a DIY or a shop though.

What paint/s are up for a beating that are DIY? I'm not really interested in powder coating.

I was looking at a process of Degrease + Zinc Phosphate Primer + E-coat + some rattle can, which would likely be the very best you could possibly have done. However, I can't do the E-coat. Anyone have any experience with a Zinc Phosphate Primer? They are easily enough attainable at any marine paint or supply store. As far as rattle can paints, I'm looking for something that comes in a Satin Black and has a hardener or increased hardness in the coating. Any suggestions or alternative methods that hold up would be helpful. Thanks!

 

[bobthetj03]

You won't find much in a rattle can that has the hardness of a 2K product(meaning a paint that requires a hardener). Even then, it's still just paint. There is some fleet paints in polyurathane that are a bit more durable than the common automotive refinish, but then again, they are 2K paints and will require catalyst and a spray gun to apply them. epoxy primer is very good bare metal primer.

 

[basic]

I've heard good things from friends about the duplicolor bed-armor. Only complaint is that it takes a LOOONNNGGG time to dry. Seems to have good reviews on the interwebs as well.

 

[JMT]

You won't find much in a rattle can that has the hardness of a 2K product(meaning a paint that requires a hardener). Even then, it's still just paint. There is some fleet paints in polyurathane that are a bit more durable than the common automotive refinish, but then again, they are 2K paints and will require catalyst and a spray gun to apply them. epoxy primer is very good bare metal primer.

Here's a 2k primer that might work well.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-aero...MI_u-P4Ma62wIVFbjACh0_LAKaEAQYAiABEgKH7vD_BwE

 

[JMT]

And a 2K Satin Black Topcoat

https://repaintsupply.com/spraymax-3680212-2k-urethane-hot-rod-satin-black-paint-aerosol-p5205.html

A little pricey, but I could probably get by for $80

 

[toximus]

>I'm not sure if that was a DIY or a shop though.

That was a professional shop.

> What paint/s are up for a beating that are DIY? I'm not really interested in powder coating.

I'm still on the hunt for this too. I think the main thing comes down to proper prep for the coating vs the coating itself.

Duplicolor is junk. I've used it perfectly and it doesn't last more than a year.

Eastwood 2k I've had mixed results with. For the body it seems to be holding up well. On the rims it's flaking. I think it may come down to prep even though I spent lots of time prepping both the best I could.

Rustoleum enamel I can't get to harden and it's tacky even after months.

If I have a new full body panel (such as front fenders) I plan to have them professionally painted as I know they have good results.

 

[bobthetj03]

Just remember, once you mix the hardener with the paint you'll have a pot life, so what you don't use will be junk after it kicks.

 

[JMT]

Just remember, once you mix the hardener with the paint you'll have a pot life, so what you don't use will be junk after it kicks.

Right, I'm reading that pot life is usually anywhere from 48-72 hours.

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

I'm researching in preparation for my next mod, which will require my painting process to perhaps go beyond a mere degrease, self-etching primer and rattle can. The object will be bare steel and once installed needs to be able to take a beating. Especially @mrblaine as I noticed in the recent build thread of the LJ where TPE terminology was introduced that the paint job on the Savvy sliders looked nice. I'm not sure if that was a DIY or a shop though.

What paint/s are up for a beating that are DIY? I'm not really interested in powder coating.

I was looking at a process of Degrease + Zinc Phosphate Primer + E-coat + some rattle can, which would likely be the very best you could possibly have done. However, I can't do the E-coat. Anyone have any experience with a Zinc Phosphate Primer? They are easily enough attainable at any marine paint or supply store. As far as rattle can paints, I'm looking for something that comes in a Satin Black and has a hardener or increased hardness in the coating. Any suggestions or alternative methods that hold up would be helpful. Thanks!

What are you painting? Different applications may require different products and therefore may generate different advice.

 

[JMT]

What are you painting? Different applications may require different products and therefore may generate different advice.

Rock Sliders 3/16" bare steel.

 

[jeepins]

I've done a bit of home painting past few years and have gained a ton of knowledge from www.autobody101.com... most general questions regarding how to's and what to use are easily searched. General consensus is... epoxy prime, seal, paint depending on what type of final product you are using - single stage or base coat/clear coat. Proper prep is 90% of a good paint job (probably more). just ask @jeepersoutpost

www.autobody101.com

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

Rock Sliders 3/16" bare steel.

I used VHT Rust converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/?tag=wranglerorg-20 on my bare steel bumper a few years ago as a base primer and Duplicolor spray truck bed liner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MB6RIY/?tag=wranglerorg-20 and am very happy with the result.

I have not noticed any issues, zero, zilch, nada in this application. I did take my time in the prep work though. I plan on adding slider/steps in the future so, as in your application, ease of touchup is important to me. I do not know how it will stand up to the being stepped on repeatedly but I think any product would be of concern too. Plus it produces a non slip texture. Good luck. And show pictures of the finished project.

 

[JMT]

I used VHT Rust converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/?tag=wranglerorg-20 on my bare steel bumper a few years ago as a base primer and Duplicolor spray truck bed liner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MB6RIY/?tag=wranglerorg-20 and am very happy with the result.

I have not noticed any issues, zero, zilch, nada in this application. I did take my time in the prep work though. I plan on adding slider/steps in the future so, as in your application, ease of touchup is important to me. I do not know how it will stand up to the being stepped on repeatedly but I think any product would be of concern too. Plus it produces a non slip texture. Good luck. And show pictures of the finished project.

Thanks for the good wishes. As per texture, I'm going to see how much slip there is after the project is finished, but I'm already looking at skateboarding 80-grit tape to mount on the step. I have five kids and so they will be getting a lot of traffic, and hopefully some texture will provide a no-slip, no banged up knees, no fall ingress/egress.

 

[jeepndogs]

So the only thing that will stick to bare steel is a 2k epoxy or a 2k etching primer. Anything that is in a rattle can is usually a 1k product (no hardner). Ant acid etching primer that is sold in a metal spray can is junk, automotive grade acid etching primer is usually in a lined can or a plastic can. The stuff you posted is one of the exceptions to this, that is a 2k product. For what you are doing if you have a compressor at home it would almost be worth picking up a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight and some automotive paint. Some of the stuff Eastwood sells is actually decent and hold up well.

 

[59 wagon man]

implement paint and hardener from tractor supply

 

[jeepersoutpost]

I've done a bit of home painting past few years and have gained a ton of knowledge from www.autobody101.com... most general questions regarding how to's and what to use are easily searched. General consensus is... epoxy prime, seal, paint depending on what type of final product you are using - single stage or base coat/clear coat. Proper prep is 90% of a good paint job (probably more). just ask @jeepersoutpost

www.autobody101.com

My recent issue wasn’t due to lack of prep, in fact I prepped for days, my problem has to do with trying to save money and using the wrong product, namely a general wax and grease remover. I would recommend using what your paint manufacture suggest!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ac_]

Last thanksgiving I did my front bumper as you may well remember. I used some stripper to get the powder coat off and then I sanded and used a paint thinner and some alcohol and some acetone to clean it really good then I used some self-etching rattle can primer (Rustoleum) then I painted it "hammered" black (again Rustoleum). Before that I did the exact same thing with my Dirtworx rear bumper and they are both holding up great! I have not had to touch either up yet. Also on my Dirtoworx the other day I was towing my trailer around and somehow forgot to lock my tire carrier and it smacked into my trailer hitch tongue more than once and not even a scratch.

Anyway, I think your very most important part will be metal prep. If you don't prep it right whatever paint you use will try it's hardest to show off your imperfections. So spend a lot of time making sure it is perfectly sanded and clean before applying whatever primer/paint you decide to use. You will be glad you did.

 

[mrblaine]

implement paint and hardener from tractor supply

That would be my choice over a good epoxy primer/sealer.

 

[JMT]

Update

Talked to my friend Joe (everyone has a friend named Joe, right? Well, you should). He restores cars for a living. He’s done cars like GT500 that auctioned for over $120K. He basically offered to do it for me. He said he would sandblast/etch them for prep, then 2K Epoxy Primer with a Ceramic topcoat. Said it would be a very hard finish. He’s got all the materials on hand. He also said I could do it myself in his paint booth if I wanted. I think I’ll take him up on the offer. Don’t want to eat into his time too much, but so DIMyself at his shop sounds great!

 

[glwood]

Update

Talked to my friend Joe (everyone has a friend named Joe, right? Well, you should). He restores cars for a living. He’s done cars like GT500 that auctioned for over $120K. He basically offered to do it for me. He said he would sandblast/etch them for prep, then 2K Epoxy Primer with a Ceramic topcoat. Said it would be a very hard finish. He’s got all the materials on hand. He also said I could do it myself in his paint booth if I wanted. I think I’ll take him up on the offer. Don’t want to eat into his time too much, but so DIMyself at his shop sounds great!

I need a friend named Joe to paint my half doors...