Denso radiator marginal in hotter climates?

adventureboss

TJ Enthusiast
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Aug 1, 2023
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Phoenix, Arizona
I just wanted to see if anyone else had similar experiences with these aftermarket Denso radiators? I overhauled my 2006 TJ's cooling system when I first bought it and it had 110k miles on it. Went MOPAR where I could, but couldn't find a mopar radiator so went with Denso. It was completely fine during the spring and winter months, but I live in Phoenix and it gets quite hot in the summer. I went through my notes and had written when it was over 100 degrees outside, highway coolant temps at 80 mph with the AC on would settle in around 235-240 degrees fahrenheit via the OBD port. So not boiling over, but little margin. It would run away on long steep inclines when it was 110 outside and peg the red. Btw, atleast according to my notes from that time, I had done several chemical flushes to try and reduce the temps but had no luck.

I do not remember how I arrived on this conclusion, but somehow realized that the Denso radiator had less capacity than expected and was making my Jeep run hot. I swapped it out with a CSF 3244 and coolant temps dropped 15-20 (220ish when 110 outside with the AC on max) degrees on the highway. I've driven 130k miles since that experience and the water pump went out, so I decided to overhaul the system again and completely forgot about my previous experience with the Denso radiator. Swapped everything out, new Denso radiator, and just like last time, was running 15-20 degrees hotter on the highway when ambient temps were 100+. 235-240 degrees on the highway. I was so confused what I did wrong until I looked back on my notes.

So, I guess because of my crappy memory I'll have made the same mistake twice now, unless I somehow ended up getting two bad Denso radiators? I guess I'm still a little confused since everyone seems to recommend these and I don't hear negative things about them. Has anyone else had similar experiences or did I just get unlucky with two?
 
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I believe others have reported similar results.

Might want to consider a Koyorad. No personal experience. And I live in the PNW.

-Mac
 
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So far the Koyorad A2102 has been working fine . I don't remember having 100 degree days since the install, but several in the high to mid 90's here in Louisiana . I didn't have the capability to get live data then , but temperature stayed on the 210 mark . This year I will be able to get live data .

I also installed a Robert Shaw 195 degree thermostat and did an flush . Recently I installed a Flowkooler water pump and Hayden 2771 fan clutch . We'll see how it does this summer . Before the radiator exploded last summer , it always stayed right at 210 with the factory setup unless idling for extended periods in summer heat with the AC on .
 
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Probably because it failed for a reason. 🤫

Actually didn't fail but the water pump did and the whole system including the CSF radiator had about 130k miles on it, and was seeing dried coolant outlining the crimp. So I thought might as well swap it before it blows on me in the summer. Honestly I think it did pretty damn good for a radiator I paid $90 for.
 
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@mrblaine said the same thing about them. Where I live it rarely gets over 100 degrees but is always 100% humidity . He knows best.(y)
All that earned me was the title of "forum darling" who only has a statistical sample of one. I think everyone should buy and run a Denso radiator and if you happen to live where it gets hot, even better.
 
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All that earned me was the title of "forum darling" who only has a statistical sample of one. I think everyone should buy and run a Denso radiator and if you happen to live where it gets hot, even better.

So it looks like I had the exact same experience twice with them here in the Phoenix area. Did you have similar issues when running yours?
 
Just for shits and giggles I looked up the CSF3244 on Rockauto and it was $84. Just can’t beat that, especially if the results are that good.
 
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FYI, several years ago I had a conversation with a professional HVAC engineer and he said humidity isn’t even in the cooling formulas. Apparently it only matters for evaporative cooling systems and humans.

FIFY. ;) It was 90 here yesterday and the humidity was only 21% (for once). I didn't even break a sweat while working outside all day. 🥳
 
FYI, several years ago I had a conversation with a professional HVAC engineer and he said humidity isn’t even in the cooling formulas. Apparently it only matters for evaporative cooling systems.

Edit: While I do believe this may be wrong, I should probably shut up until I actually go back and confirm what I learned in engineering school.

Actual semi-useful contribution: I just installed a Denso in my 2.4L and I'm struggling to hit 195 now, though it's still been pretty chilly up here in New England. Nope, still not that useful.
 
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I installed the CSF 2578 3 row $245 a year ago and it has been the best cooling set up I've experienced with this Jeep. And the big plus is it's brass with no plastic.
 
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Edit: While I do believe this may be wrong, I should probably shut up until I actually go back and confirm what I learned in engineering school.
You got me to wondering so I spent a while searching the internet and found this:

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s003480050161
"Abstract:  The convective heat transfer from a cylinder to a humid air stream flowing normal to the cylinder was investigated experimentally at atmospheric pressure over a range of variables which is relevant to the use of hot‐wire anemometry: air temperatures between 30 °C and 70 °C and velocities between 12 and 37 m/s. For molar fractions of water vapour up to 0.27, the heat transfer increased with increasing humidity. The ratio of heat transfer rates in humid air and dry air is a unique function of the molar fraction of water vapour, independent of the air temperature and flow velocity."


So apparently humid air can transfer more heat than dry air.
 
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I put in a LILAND GLOBAL 2101AA, and my problems are too much cooling. (in Houston hot as hell Texas)