Help Needed: Pilot Bearing

PRNDL

TJ Enthusiast
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Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
980
Location
Flower Mound, TX
2004 TJ - 150k miles
OEM clutch gave out Wednesday night. Pulled it apart to replace and found several issues. The most critical being that there was no pilot bearing found. Unfortunately, it looks like maybe the original bearing disintegrated in some way and only a remnant of the outer race is still installed. See the pictures below. it does look to me that there is a race or sleeve still in the pilot bearing journal. The new bearing will not start by hand as stated in the service manual as is.

I've tried a rented a two jaw pilot bearing puller and slide hammer and tried a collet puller version to attempt removal. You can see on the inside there does appear to be a gap to grab, but so far I have not been able to get the face of the race to budge. i have not tried a screw type pressure puller, but have one coming from amazon tomorrow morning.

I'm looking for any and all input on how to proceed. I'm aware that i can't install a new clutch without a pilot bearing. Unfortunately for me, the Jeep is my daily driver for now.

  • Do you agree that what I'm seeing is a race or something that must be removed?
  • Should i attempt to "cut" or break the race with a chisel or punch?
  • Is the larger ring that houses the bearing removable/replaceable? It looks like it did come out on this video:
    View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi8hz4WS7nA - (I know this guys was/is a forum member, but I can't remember his name. Duck something? I think he may have sold this jeep a while ago though)


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I do not think you have a race left in the bushing adapter thing. I think that gap you are seeing is a result of the adapter bushing not being 100% mated to the end of the Crank. I would put your new pilot bushing in the freezer for an hour or two and then gently tap it in using a dead blow mallet. I will say, the inside of the bushing looks very scored likely from the disintegration of the old pilot bearing.

I can see why you may think the race is still present based of pic 3. That could just be shadows as a result of the angle of the photo but it looks like a defined edge.

If you have a set of calipers you could measure the existing hole on the crank, and the exterior diameter of the PB to determine if the race is still present.

Edit: it does appear that the bushing itself is an available aftermarket part. May be worth piece of mind to replace it judging the scoring visible in pics 3-7

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I do not think you have a race left in the bushing adapter thing. I think that gap you are seeing is a result of the adapter bushing not being 100% mated to the end of the Crank. I would put your new pilot bushing in the freezer for an hour or two and then gently tap it in using a dead blow mallet. I will say, the inside of the bushing looks very scored likely from the disintegration of the old pilot bearing.

I can see why you may think the race is still present based of pic 3. That could just be shadows as a result of the angle of the photo but it looks like a defined edge.

If you have a set of calipers you could measure the existing hole on the crank, and the exterior diameter of the PB to determine if the race is still present.

Edit: it does appear that the bushing itself is an available aftermarket part. May be worth piece of mind to replace it judging the scoring visible in pics 3-7

View attachment 687326

Dude thank you. I might look into replacing it.

I had heard and considered the freezer for the new bearing. i will give that a go and see if that changes the math.
 
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If worse comes to worse. You can take the flywheel to a machine shop. Along with your new pilot bearing. And get them to fit the two together.
 
If worse comes to worse. You can take the flywheel to a machine shop. Along with your new pilot bearing. And get them to fit the two together.

Unfortunately, the bearing journal is in the crankshaft, not the flywheel.
 
I am fairly confident I put my PB in the freezer, but it was a few years ago when I did my clutch.

If it were me, I would replace the bushing. Worth the peace of mind.
 
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The pilot bearing is purposely designed and supplied inside that steel bushing so that when it grenades, you don't have to replace the crank. You definitely want to replace the sub-assembly since your bearing grenaded to avoid vibration and premature wear on engine and transmission bearing surfaces from eccentric loading.
 
The pilot bearing is purposely designed and supplied inside that steel bushing so that when it grenades, you don't have to replace the crank. You definitely want to replace the sub-assembly since your bearing grenaded to avoid vibration and premature wear on engine and transmission bearing surfaces from eccentric loading.

Thanks, I really appreciate the insight here. I have a couple options arriving tomorrow along with a jaw puller.
 
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Give the bread or damp paper towel removal trick a try. Skip to the 0.00.40 mark in the video. I've used both successfully before, but using long socket turned backwards on an extension.


View: %5BURL%5Dhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00OlG5E8vLk[/URL]

I tried grease once. Was not fun. Do not recommend.


Grease and a dowel work fine , but you need to drape a rag around the dowel/PB before hitting it . I guess you know what happens if you don't ... ;):)
 
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Update 1: i bought another vehicle for commuting, lol.
Update 2: Success.

After several failed attempts with the collet style blind hole pullers and a couple of weeks of thinking on it, I finally got it out.

The 2-jaw bridge puller I originally ordered wasn't stable and would twist itself of the face of the crankshaft. I found this other puller on amazon for $20. it has three inner jaws to grip and two, wider bridge feet. The issue was there really wasn't anything for the inner jaws to dig into. I ordered a few dremel grinding stones to cut notches and it worked perfectly. The old is out and the new is in. Hoping I can get this wrapped up and back on the road this weekend.

I really appreciate the help and direction, fellas.
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