TJUs: Looking at a heavily modded 06 or a mildly modded 04

[Tronner]

The only manual transmission Jeep I’ve had was a ‘13 Rubicon. Even with stock gearing it drove me crazy. I would shift to either 3rd or 4th before ever getting across an intersection. Are the TJ 5/6-speeds any better?

Eh. The 6 speed is not my favorite. But I like the 6th gear on the highway.

 

[DirtDawg]

The only manual transmission Jeep I’ve had was a ‘13 Rubicon. Even with stock gearing it drove me crazy. I would shift to either 3rd or 4th before ever getting across an intersection. Are the TJ 5/6-speeds any better?

I also own a from-new 2017 JK Rubicon 2-door 6-speed now approaching 14k total miles, which I've modified moderately for light duty trail action (OME springs, TeraFlex Falcon remote reservoir shocks and stabilizer plus bumpers and skids), which primarily serves as grocery-getter duties. I do enjoy driving it around town, however no where near how I enjoy the TJ platform.

 

[ColoJeep]

The only manual transmission Jeep I’ve had was a ‘13 Rubicon. Even with stock gearing it drove me crazy. I would shift to either 3rd or 4th before ever getting across an intersection. Are the TJ 5/6-speeds any better?

A 6 spd. TJ is really the same thing you had in the JK . 99 and older TJ's used an AX-15 Asian transmission , great transmission that could use a little lower 1 st gear if rock crawling. 2000 up used a NV-3550 , reverse is geared WAY high , and the transmision sounds like a marble in a blender . You can buy a new AX-15 , only fair support for the NV -3550 and no new transmissions available.

 

[ColoJeep]

Eh. The 6 speed is not my favorite. But I like the 6th gear on the highway.

For what it's worth , the AX-15 has a higher overdrive ratio in 5 th. than the 6 spd. does in 6 th .

 

[DirtDawg]

A 6 spd. TJ is really the same thing you had in the JK . 99 and older TJ's used an AX-15 Asian transmission , great transmission that could use a little lower 1 st gear if rock crawling. 2000 up used a NV-3550 , reverse is geared WAY high , and the transmision sounds like a marble in a blender . You can buy a new AX-15 , only fair support for the NV -3550 and no new transmissions available.

When I ordered my 2000 in Summer 1999, internet comments that the NV3550 was sourced from Dodge's truck line appealed to me, thinking it would be plenty rugged enough mated with the 4L inline six. When I sold that TJ nearing 100k miles, it still shifted as new, however the original clutch was at end of life plus the rear main seal was leaking. As always, YMMV...

 

[Tronner]

When I ordered my 2000 in Summer 1999, internet comments that the NV3550 was sourced from Dodge's truck line appealed to me, thinking it would be plenty rugged enough mated with the 4L inline six. When I sold that TJ nearing 100k miles, it still shifted as new, however the original clutch was at end of life plus the rear main seal was leaking. As always, YMMV...

There is a good thread on the forum about how the NV3550 may have come under filled from the factory and that the full plug is lower than the required fluid amount level leaving the trans under filled.

 

[ColoJeep]

When I ordered my 2000 in Summer 1999, internet comments that the NV3550 was sourced from Dodge's truck line appealed to me, thinking it would be plenty rugged enough mated with the 4L inline six. When I sold that TJ nearing 100k miles, it still shifted as new, however the original clutch was at end of life plus the rear main seal was leaking. As always, YMMV...

We have both AX-15 and NV3550 , 99 and 04 they both work , however the AX-15 is better in every respect over the NV3550 . The only thing the NV 3550 has is 1st. gear is lower 4.0 -1 vs. 3.83 - 1 . Either are better than the "Mercedes" NSG-370 .

 

[any4xx]

When I ordered my 2000 in Summer 1999, internet comments that the NV3550 was sourced from Dodge's truck line appealed to me, thinking it would be plenty rugged enough mated with the 4L inline six. When I sold that TJ nearing 100k miles, it still shifted as new, however the original clutch was at end of life plus the rear main seal was leaking. As always, YMMV...

I’ve got a few funner road cars with 5/6 speeds. But after replacing my left hip with a titanium piece I find that running the clutches aren’t much fun after a while. Yet another reason I’m seeking an automatic.

 

[DirtDawg]

I’ve got a few funner road cars with 5/6 speeds. But after replacing my left hip with a titanium piece I find that running the clutches aren’t much fun after a while. Yet another reason I’m seeking an automatic.

Quite possibly, I'm even more "senior" than you are, having owned multiple manual trans cars going back to my '65 Corvair Corsa and (first ever brand new car) '68 Camaro SS/RS 350 4-speed, with many Euro and USA manuals to follow. Most recently just 2 months ago, I sold my highly modded MINI Cooper R53 on BaT, which was a blast to drive through the canyons, however highly impractical to own where I now live. Also, the TJ seating position and relatively light clutch remains easy for me to operate.

 

[ColoJeep]

I’ve got a few funner road cars with 5/6 speeds. But after replacing my left hip with a titanium piece I find that running the clutches aren’t much fun after a while. Yet another reason I’m seeking an automatic.

Sounds like a manual valve body could bring some fun to the automatic table .

 

[any4xx]

One other thing is the 32RH was considered the better auto vs the 42RLE, though the 42 is plenty livable - even if sub-par.

The previous owner of my ‘99 had the 32RH rebuilt not too long before I bought it from him. The professionals didn’t set the TV cable correctly and it wasn’t downshifting correctly. After a very minor adjustment it’s been running great. Mine is still running the original 3.07 gears. I’m hoping that the 42 with the 3.73 gears might be a bit more lively. I can cruise the “99 at 75 MPH but it takes its sweet time getting to those freeway speeds.

 

[rasband]

I’m hoping that the 42 with the 3.73 gears might be a bit more lively.

I wouldn't have too high of hopes on that! I auto swapped (42rle) a few years ago with 5.13s on 35s - it's just barely acceptable. If 5.38s weren't so close I would have already regeared. Last month I was able to ride 85 through Utah driving out to Sand Hollow, but deeper gears would have been nice.

 

[any4xx]

Quite possibly, I'm even more "senior" than you are, having owned multiple manual trans cars going back to my '65 Corvair Corsa and (first ever brand new car) '68 Camaro SS/RS 350 4-speed, with many Euro and USA manuals to follow. Most recently just 2 months ago, I sold my highly modded MINI Cooper R53 on BaT, which was a blast to drive through the canyons, however highly impractical to own where I now live. Also, the TJ seating position and relatively light clutch remains easy for me to operate.

I must admit that the “weeniest” of my cars has a 5-spd and isn’t bad to drive. I bought a ‘97 Del Sol SI from wifey’s nephew a few months ago as a charity purchase. Clutch on that stupid thing is the lightest I’ve ever felt. Car is certainly not inspiring to drive though. I’ve had riding mowers with more torque.

 

[any4xx]

I wouldn't have too high of hopes on that! I auto swapped (42rle) a few years ago with 5.13s on 35s - it's just barely acceptable. If 5.38s weren't so close I would have already regeared. Last month I was able to ride 85 through Utah driving out to Sand Hollow, but deeper gears would have been nice.

On that note…. Did I see somewhere that all of the Unlimited models came with Dana 44 rears?

 

[DirtDawg]

My 2005 Rubi had 35s on 5.13 gearing, which in combo with my particular 42RLE wasn't acceptable to me. So, immediately replaced those with fresh 33" BFG KM3s and called it good enough. For me, the add'l 1" pumpkin clearance wasn't enough justification to retain 35s.

 

[ColoJeep]

On that note…. Did I see somewhere that all of the Unlimited models came with Dana 44 rears?

Yes they did.

 

[JMT]

The NSG 370 is the pinnacle of the German mindset , And I quess we won't talk about the OPDA or PCM , or PCM language .

Na, all easy stuff. OPDA was $30 to replace and I think that’s ‘05-06 only.

PCM, at least the shift points are programmable! Also ‘05-06 NGC stuff only!

‘03-06 has way better mirrors, way better HVAC control center, and the steering wheel doesn’t look like it came out of an alien spaceship. The seat designs suck but an improvement over early models.

‘03-06 has the Rubicon option! I’ll stick with the 8 or so late models I’ve bought.

And, to top it all off, if you want the pinnacle of Jeep’s, you need an ‘04-06 because those are the only years they were made. LJ FTW!

 

[ColoJeep]

Yes they did.

A Dana 44 was the one thing I searched out when buying our TJ's . Of course other than the 4.0 and 5 spd.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I’m looking at a TJU that the current owner has had a Rubicon Express 4.5” long arm lift installed on. I’ve never had experience with long arms but from what I have read here the RE seems to be the cheapest of the cheap? I’m the guy that does not push the off-road capabilities. I’ve never run into issues off-road with either of my previous JKs or with my current TJ with factory suspension. A big part of me likes the idea of keeping things as close to stock as possible.

I see that there are control arm brackets available out there so if I did want to go back to stock it would just be a matter of welding (back) on new brackets. Which I’m perfectly capable of doing.

I’m deep into flipping the mental coins on this Jeep. I’ve not yet been able to go look at/drive it but hopefully will in the next few days. So finally the question: Since I’m mostly a pavement guy who occasionally gets into the dirt and ruts but never serious rocks, is there any reason that I would NOT just want to leave the long arm kit in place? Or possibly replace it with a better long arm kit instead of welding on all new brackets for the short arms?

Certainly a lot of personal preference comes into play with these decisions. I’d honestly rather have a 3” or less lift than a 4.5” anyway. I’m a fan of low COG. I’m guessing that just because the kit was sold as a 4.5” the arms are not restricting my ability to just change springs & shocks to bring it down a bit?

Any advice I may want to chew on?

As always, thank you in advance for indulging & educating me.

Tom.

Personal experience. I have an '04 LJ which I bought new off the lot. My first mod was a RE 5.5" Long Arm Kit. I ran that setup for many years. I drove that setup on the street and I wheeled it hard. Started on 35s, moved up to 37s and 40s. I've since gone completely custom, but I am way more to the hard code side off road - which ultimately took me away from the RE stuff.

For your planned use, it is absolutely not worth the time, money and effort to go back to the stock short arm suspension.

The RE Long Arm / Radius Arm setup has its limitations, but nearly all of them are off road, and really only noticed when you get into harder stuff.

On the road, it rides very well, has precise steering, and is very nice to drive. No problem at all handing the keys to anyone to drive it. To me, it rode as well or better than stock on the street. And as with every other suspension setup, you do need good shocks.

And as to the rest of the discussion here, yes, the '04 is the best year...

 

[ColoJeep]

Na, all easy stuff. OPDA was $30 to replace and I think that’s ‘05-06 only.

PCM, at least the shift points are programmable! Also ‘05-06 NGC stuff only!

‘03-06 has way better mirrors, way better HVAC control center, and the steering wheel doesn’t look like it came out of an alien spaceship. The seat designs suck but an improvement over early models.

‘03-06 has the Rubicon option! I’ll stick with the 8 or so late models I’ve bought.

Glad you like like the post 02's . I like the pre. 03's . Something for everyone in Jeep world !