Engine is running rich - RPMs drop and it vibrates

TheManWithNoName

Member
Original poster
Joined
Mar 14, 2025
Messages
87
Location
Miami
Looking for advice on a strange issue with my 2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0L, manual transmission, with approximately 77,000 miles.
I’ve replaced or checked quite a few things while trying to diagnose it:

  • New fuel pump
  • o2 sensors
  • Fuel injectors
  • Spark plugs and coil rail
  • MAP sensor
  • IAC valve
  • EVAP purge valve
  • CPS/crankshaft position sensor
  • Coolant temperature sensor
  • PCM (from WranglerFix)
  • Intake manifold gasket, although I’m not completely confident that I installed it perfectly
  • OPDA
A mechanic also performed a smoke test and did not find any vacuum leaks.

I’m still dealing with an intermittent vibration and strange fuel-trim behavior.

The Jeep generally drives fine and has no check-engine light. A vibration mostly happens when the engine is fully warmed up, especially after accelerating and then coming to a stop.

For example, when I accelerate up the slope into my garage, press the brake and put the transmission in neutral, the fuel trims suddenly go very negative—sometimes around -16% to -17%. As the trims gradually return toward zero or positive, the vibration slowly disappears.

The fuel trims also go significantly negative under acceleration. While driving, my long-term fuel trim is usually around -16%, and the short-term trim can also drop to approximately -16%. At idle, the short-term trim is normally closer to 0, but can go randomly in the negative.

Once the Jeep is fully warmed up, I also sometimes feel a hesitation during acceleration, especially when shifting from first to second and then from second to third. It feels like the engine hesitates or briefly struggles when I get back on the throttle after changing gears. This is much less noticeable when the engine is cold.
Other things I’ve noticed:
    • The vibration rarely happens when the engine is cold.
    • Turning on the A/C makes the vibration noticeably worse.
    • The hesitation becomes more noticeable after driving in traffic and getting everything fully hot.
    • Disconnecting the EVAP purge line and capping the intake side seems to reduce how often the vibration happens.
    • It drives normally at highway speeds and generally feels fine once cruising.
    • I have no misfire codes or check-engine light.

I'm honestly clueless of what it can be.
 
You've changed everything else, did you check the TPS?

If you had an intake gasket leak, you'd have very high idle.

O2s need to be MOPAR or NTK to avoid issues. (MOPARs are made by NTK)
 
How is the insulation on the manifold /fuel rail? My thought is wondering if the heat is getting the fuel to vaporize in the fuel line and some heat sheilding on the injectors and fuel rail might help out? It would explain once you got some RPM that your fuel consumption is getting enough fuel cooler fuel flowing to smooth out. Just a spit ball guess.
 
You've changed everything else, did you check the TPS?

If you had an intake gasket leak, you'd have very high idle.

O2s need to be MOPAR or NTK to avoid issues. (MOPARs are made by NTK)

The TPS has been changed. Also, I just disconnected the IAT and I still have the same issue. The O2 sensors are NTK
 
How is the insulation on the manifold /fuel rail? My thought is wondering if the heat is getting the fuel to vaporize in the fuel line and some heat sheilding on the injectors and fuel rail might help out? It would explain once you got some RPM that your fuel consumption is getting enough fuel cooler fuel flowing to smooth out. Just a spit ball guess.

I initially had the heatsoak on cyl 3 when I bought the car. I put some shielding and it fixed the issue.
 
https://imgur.com/a/GSVMizj
IMG-1518.webp




I think I perhaps find the issue. A while ago, I changed the rear main seal myself. I had to drop the exhaust. I think what happened is that the exhaust correctly attached somehow. So what's probably happening is that air is escaping creating and exhaust leak. The bank 1 sensor 1 is seeing that the engine is running rich.
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood

View: https://imgur.com/a/GSVMizj
View attachment 699320



I think I perhaps find the issue. A while ago, I changed the rear main seal myself. I had to drop the exhaust. I think what happened is that the exhaust correctly attached somehow. So what's probably happening is that air is escaping creating and exhaust leak. The bank 1 sensor 1 is seeing that the engine is running rich.


It usually wouldn't show up as a leak from that far back on the upstream sensors, but definitely can where you dropped the cats to get to the RMS.
Are you hearing any exhaust leak up front on the driver side?
Do you see the O2 showing lean or a high positive STFT and LTFT values?
 
It usually wouldn't show up as a leak from that far back on the upstream sensors, but definitely can where you dropped the cats to get to the RMS.
Are you hearing any exhaust leak up front on the driver side?
Do you see the O2 showing lean or a high positive STFT and LTFT values?
Yup, that's what I think too. It's from when I drop the cat to fix the RSM. Yes, my STFT are negative -15% and LTFT are around -20%.

I disconnected by bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 as a test. This is what I have with the sensors are disconnected:

1783906061107.webp


And that's what I see when all the sensors are connected:

1783905965471.webp
 
It's interesting to me that when bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 are disconnected, they are still showing 1.270v
 
S1 sensors move up and down alot, but if B2S1 is staying there, it's reading lean due to a exhaust leak.

They graph like this, range from around .18 to .80 more or less.
1783906883802.webp

Turquise and Red lines are B1S1 and B2S1 respectively. Key point being they're oscillating in a range while the S2 group are slow moving, but do move under events like deceleration fuel cutoff and wide open throttle power enrichment.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
Hard to believe guys, but it was the spark plugs. I changed them and no more vibration. I don't get it. I've been trying to fix this issue for the past 9 months. I changed every f***** sensor on this Jeep. I put back the Champion copper and the car runs smoothly now. I don't know if it runs rich, but no more vibration. I don't get it. I had Autolite platinum spark plug that I put when I bought the car.
 
Were they the single platinum? The coil rail ignition does not like single platinums. Double platinum works fine. Also, standard plugs work fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
The car is running fine, but it's still running rich. I found an exhaust leak at the flange. Could this be the reason the car is running rich?

1784491442278.webp
 
It's not helping, tighten the flange bolts. When mine get loose I get cat efficiency codes.

15 mm.