TJ2
TJ Expert
eww, that sounds bad."What's an inch among friends?"
Right.....
That's what she said.
eww, that sounds bad."What's an inch among friends?"
Right.....
That's what she said.
Come on brah! One more inch ain't gonna sink the ship!
"What's an inch among friends?"
Right.....
That's what she said.
Hey Rob5589, didn't you put an RC track bar on your rig? How's it working out?A Rubicon won't sit any higher, if that is an issue. I am happy where I am at with mine. It does what I need (mostly) and I haven't spent a fortune. A taller skid, engine skid, and a few odds and ends should complete it. I beat the poor thing up in Idaho last week; dented fender, scratches down the sides, grill and fenders rock blasted, plus a busted headlight. Felt bad for treating her so poorly.
Negative, JKS. Beefy, JJ on frame end, easily adjustable.Hey Rob5589, didn't you put an RC track bar on your rig? How's it working out?
Nice. Any issues? Did you have to bump stop for it?Negative, JKS. Beefy, JJ on frame end, easily adjustable.
Yup, three options. Ignore the front axle offset, it isn't much, but the passenger side tire rubs at full lock, the JKS adjustable track bar, or the Rough Country forged track bar with a Jeeps West weld on frame mount. Or get my next set of wheels and tires before the Jeeps ready and set up for them. Choices, choices. Really starting to look hard at the Rough Country track bar.
That's a very clean suspension you got going on there! My body paint doesn't look that good most of the time.Go for the JKS Trackbar. I have one...Its great. Lots of clearance, and I'm only running 2" springs. Its closest to the Diff at full stuff and I have a half inch of clearance. I have a picture....remember...I have the Dana 44 front axle. Its a well designed unit. Been very impressed. No extra bumpstop for the trackbar needed.
View attachment 56021
Those look like the Jeeps West brackets, kinda sorta. Definitely plan B and a half. Thanks...I wonder if you could bring it far enough forward to clear even a stright bar with some frame and axle weld on track bar brackets? Mine does but my uptravel ends at about the stock ride height.
Some thing like this
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/ca/universal-track-bar-bracket-axle-mount
And this
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/ca/universal-track-bar-bracket-frame-mount-offset
Edit:
Turns out if I keep scrolling there's a kit so you can see the setup better
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/ca/universal-front-track-bar-pan-hard-bar-kit
I know they make a frame side bracket without all the offset I just can't find it at the moment, but you get the idea. You could push it forward so it just clears the drag link.
—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
I was already bump stopped when I installed it.Nice. Any issues? Did you have to bump stop for it?
Not a bad way to go.Keep the H&R springs, add 1" coil spacers, get a JKS track bar, and stay on 31's. You'll gain some uptravel, which will help improve the ride over small events. Shocks could be an issue though, so you might need to bump to some Ranchos.
That's a very clean suspension you got going on there! My body paint doesn't look that good most of the time.
Thanks for the picture, I appreciate it. Thank you.
Why the coil spacers? Just curious... The whole point of the the H&R springs was to replace my old sagging stock springs because the poor TJ was dragging it's gas tank skid across drainage bars (mini cut and berms) on logging roads... The springs fixed that. The springs needed longer shocks, hence the new Bilsteins...bad choice it seems though. So now to wedge a new set of Ranchos under there and do the whole suspension cycling thing all over again. Since I'm getting tire rub on the passenger side now at full lock, and better backspace on the wheels isn't on the list at the moment, a new front track bar is in order.Keep the H&R springs, add 1" coil spacers, get a JKS track bar, and stay on 31's. You'll gain some uptravel, which will help improve the ride over small events. Shocks could be an issue though, so you might need to bump to some Ranchos.
No, not really better. I just prefer the early Rubicons over the later Rubicons is all. Some minor details between the two make me prefer the early ones a little more.I don't feel your pain yet; I have not bought a TJ yet!
Why a 2003 -4 Rubi, are they better than 2005-6?
Why the coil spacers? Just curious... The whole point of the the H&R springs was to replace my old sagging stock springs because the poor TJ was dragging it's gas tank skid across drainage bars (mini cut and berms) on logging roads... The springs fixed that. The springs needed longer shocks, hence the new Bilsteins...bad choice it seems though. So now to wedge a new set of Ranchos under there and do the whole suspension cycling thing all over again. Since I'm getting tire rub on the passenger side now at full lock, and better backspace on the wheels isn't on the list at the moment, a new front track bar is in order.
Anyway, I've got a build plan out for the next couple of years. Here it is. Feel free to shoot holes in it. I've spun in circles forever over the limited slip vs. lockers deal for a year now.
Block one
H&R springs (Done)
Bilstein 5100 shocks (Done)
KO2 31x10.50R15 tires (Done)
Block two $380 left
Full tune up (Done)
Centric front brakes (full kit, stock) (Done)
Centric rear brakes (full kit, stock) (Done)
YJ front brake hoses (Done)
ZJ Moog Front track bar (Done)
JKS quicker disconnects (Done)
JKS front track bar OGS126 $240
LED Tail lights $32 (Done)
LED Flasher EP26 $13 (Done)
3rd brake light / License plate light / license plate spare tire mount Ace #ACESTPR $95 (Done)
Block three $1,055
UCF aluminum winch plate $140
Engo SR9S winch $449
Smittybilt Premium Sailcloth replace-a-top $250 (Done)
Bestop replacement tailgate bar $66.95
Block four $2,453 (not including gear install)
Revolution Gear and Axle 5.13 gears & Master install kit $476
Alloy Dana 30 & Dana 35 axle shaft kits
Rear Dana 35
Left Hand - YA WM35C-27-L-HD [21304] $151 Yukon 4340 Chrome Moly 27 spline. 30 11/16" long, requires screw-in axle studs (part number YSPSTUD-010)
Right Hand - YA WM35C-27-R-HD [21306] $151 Yukon 4340 Chrome Moly 27 spline. 29 1/8" long, requires screw-in axle studs (part number YSPSTUD-010).
Front Dana 30
Left Inner - YA W38821 [21358] $125 Yukon 4340 Chrome-Moly left-hand, inner axle. Uses 5-760X u-joint, 27 spline, 16.63" from end of splines to center of u-joint bore.
Right Inner - YA W38875 [21359] $301 Yukon 4340 Chrome-Moly right hand, inner axle. Uses 5-760X u-joint, 27 spline, 32.36" from end of splines to center of u-joint bore
Outer (x2) - YA W39125 [21361] $103x 2 Yukon 4340 Chrome-Moly outer stub axle, Uses 5-760X u-joint, 27 spline, 6.11" from end of splines to center of u-joint bore.
Spicer 5-760X u-joint $25 x 2
Yukon studs YSPSTUD-010 $3.50 x 20
Detroit Truetrac(s)
Dana 30 - Eaton Detroit TrueTrac 912A585 27 Spline $451
Dana 35 - Eaton Detroit TrueTrac 912A569 27 Spline $472
Block five $780
Core4x4 control arms, tier 2, rubber/JJ, +hardware, core4x4_tj_set8_T2 $780
Block six $1,105
M.O.R.E. 1" body lift BLTJ97 $150
Brown Dog 1" MML and engine mounts KU2569-1H $275
Savvy transfer case shifter $170
Advance Adapters SYE with Tom Wood rear drive shaft $510
Block seven $1,478
UCF rocker guards (Genright with backers?) $350
UCF tailgate hinges $158
UCF deep cover skid plate system, aluminum, UHC $760
UCF high clearance aluminum gas tank skid $368
Block eight $1,500
32x11.50R15 tires $200 x 5
15x8 wheels $100 x 5
Total: $8,751 (without gear install)
Right!? If I do, I'll keep the SE. She's not going anywhere. Those JLR's sure look nice though, especially in red. Clackamas Town Center here I come! 35's are supposed to fit nicely under a JLR by the way...You forgot one:
Block Nine
Sell SE for Rubicon
Add 35" tires and a 4" lift, tummy tuck, and take my lead of pure insanity!
Just say, "you only live once... fuck it"
:risas3: