Buying my first Wrangler... Advice Needed!

[Ksload92]

So I went to look more in depth at this 2005 Wrangler today. It has the 4.0 6 Cyl and is a 6 speed manual. It has 163,000 mi on it...One owner, clean Carfax. The frame seems to be in pretty good shape (pics included). It does have a few small areas of body rust (see pictures). Didn't see rust anywhere else...lifted up the carpet on driver/passenger and rear floor, checked hinges, etc. Being in PA, finding a totally rust-free TJ in my budget has been tough...(flying to and buying from places where rust isn't an issue is not a feasible option right now.) This one was just inspected and has 2 new front tires on it. Has the full doors/hard top and seemed to run smooth on the test drive. No noises or anything like that. Dealer asking price is $7490.

Looking for opinions on the body rust patches...possible to fix? Lead to bigger issues, etc?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[MaloStapalo]

If you needed you could sand the body rust down, treat it to kill the rust, then bondo any holes you create then paint or cover.

How much body work is within your scope of completing or how much budget would you have to pay a shop? At some threshold it crosses over to the same cost as flying or traveling to pick up one that doesn't need some TLC, especially if your abilities are limited and youre paying shop rates.

 

[Westtown Willy]

you've got some stuff to deal with & probably more you can't see. Did you look inside the frame rails? I've got a feeling there may be piles of rust flakes inside & if so you may be biting off a big chunk with this one. I live right down the road from you if you'd like me to take a closer look at it & possibly identify some issues you might have missed. There are TJs around here that have less rust, I see them all the time, just have to be patient.

Edit: never mind, already found it, it's 3 miles from my house so whether you like it or not I'm gonna go take a look

Edit #2: checked it out, my concerns about the frame were unfounded, it's one of the best I've seen. The inside of the frame around all 4 control arm mounts & the rails close to the tc skid are smooth as glass inside, outside looks fantastic too other than some minor surface rust. The only area of potential concern is where the tc skid bolts onto the lower frame rails, high rust area because water & salt can get trapped in there & cause rust & it's hard to see in there without dropping the skid but given the overall condition of the frame I don't think that's much of a problem. There was some corrosion on bolts but that can be dealt with along with the body rust in those areas of the body you've identified (I'd take it to a mechanic for an inspection & while he's at it have him drop the skid to check the rails for rust & also do a more thorough inspection with a hammer, I wasn't going to start whacking at that thing but I'm very confident it's a great frame).

The add says it's an auto but it is a manual. Also, it's got a Dana 44 rear, see attached build sheet. If it were me I'd take it to my mechanic & if it checks out mechanically JUMP ON IT yesterday, it's an awesome TJ

 

[Rob5589]

Needs a hands on inspection of the frame. The skid plate to frame area has some concerns.

 

[glwood]

Needs a hands on inspection of the frame. The skid plate to frame area has some concerns.

@Westtown Willy did that, it seems...

 

[IPerkWVU]

you've got some stuff to deal with & probably more you can't see. Did you look inside the frame rails? I've got a feeling there may be piles of rust flakes inside & if so you may be biting off a big chunk with this one. I live right down the road from you if you'd like me to take a closer look at it & possibly identify some issues you might have missed. There are TJs around here that have less rust, I see them all the time, just have to be patient.

Edit: never mind, already found it, it's 3 miles from my house so whether you like it or not I'm gonna go take a look

Edit #2: checked it out, my concerns about the frame were unfounded, it's one of the best I've seen. The inside of the frame around all 4 control arm mounts & the rails close to the tc skid are smooth as glass inside, outside looks fantastic too other than some minor surface rust. The only area of potential concern is where the tc skid bolts onto the lower frame rails, high rust area because water & salt can get trapped in there & cause rust & it's hard to see in there without dropping the skid but given the overall condition of the frame I don't think that's much of a problem. There was some corrosion on bolts but that can be dealt with along with the body rust in those areas of the body you've identified (I'd take it to a mechanic for an inspection & while he's at it have him drop the skid to check the rails for rust & also do a more thorough inspection with a hammer, I wasn't going to start whacking at that thing but I'm very confident it's a great frame).

The add says it's an auto but it is a manual. Also, it's got a Dana 44 rear, see attached build sheet. If it were me I'd take it to my mechanic & if it checks out mechanically JUMP ON IT yesterday, it's an awesome TJView attachment 58317 View attachment 58318 View attachment 58319

This is why this forum is great

 

[fourpointzero]

My two pennies: it’s a dealer. After taxes, title fees and dealer nonsense fees, add your reconditioning w all those little rust spots and you’ll be in it for way over 10k + the headaches and the likeliness that all that rust returns. I would personally keep on looking. But this is from someone who’s been down the reconditioning rabbit hole. If you got the time, or the cash, and the patience, then maybe it’s for you. Just be aware of what’s ahead.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Equilibrium31]

you've got some stuff to deal with & probably more you can't see. Did you look inside the frame rails? I've got a feeling there may be piles of rust flakes inside & if so you may be biting off a big chunk with this one. I live right down the road from you if you'd like me to take a closer look at it & possibly identify some issues you might have missed. There are TJs around here that have less rust, I see them all the time, just have to be patient.

Edit: never mind, already found it, it's 3 miles from my house so whether you like it or not I'm gonna go take a look

Edit #2: checked it out, my concerns about the frame were unfounded, it's one of the best I've seen. The inside of the frame around all 4 control arm mounts & the rails close to the tc skid are smooth as glass inside, outside looks fantastic too other than some minor surface rust. The only area of potential concern is where the tc skid bolts onto the lower frame rails, high rust area because water & salt can get trapped in there & cause rust & it's hard to see in there without dropping the skid but given the overall condition of the frame I don't think that's much of a problem. There was some corrosion on bolts but that can be dealt with along with the body rust in those areas of the body you've identified (I'd take it to a mechanic for an inspection & while he's at it have him drop the skid to check the rails for rust & also do a more thorough inspection with a hammer, I wasn't going to start whacking at that thing but I'm very confident it's a great frame).

The add says it's an auto but it is a manual. Also, it's got a Dana 44 rear, see attached build sheet. If it were me I'd take it to my mechanic & if it checks out mechanically JUMP ON IT yesterday, it's an awesome TJView attachment 58317 View attachment 58318 View attachment 58319

Well damn, that's about the best feedback you can get for this question! Pretty awesome of you to head down there and give a detailed write-up.

 

[Westtown Willy]

My two pennies: it’s a dealer. After taxes, title fees and dealer nonsense fees, add your reconditioning w all those little rust spots and you’ll be in it for way over 10k + the headaches and the likeliness that all that rust returns. I would personally keep on looking. But this is from someone who’s been down the reconditioning rabbit hole. If you got the time, or the cash, and the patience, then maybe it’s for you. Just be aware of what’s ahead.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

it's actually really clean in person, looks worse in the photos though that one rust spot on the rear is substantial. I'm a little perplexed because I was certain the frame would be worse given the spots of body rust but other than the unknown area around the tc skid it's great. Unless it had a frame swap there's no chance this thing was subjected to a lot of salt or if it was it was well taken care of at the same time, the rails were empty. Looked clean top to bottom but I didn't pop the hood or really crawl underneath so it would certainly need a far more in depth going over by a mechanic, I'm just saying it's absolutely worth a closer look. It goes without saying that the price should be negotiated down too, but for seven grand given the OPs situation I'd find it hard to believe much better is out there.

I looked at a similar impact orange one over the winter for someone & as I was driving over I was hoping it wasn't that same one, if memory serves it was on the same used car lot. As I approached that one I could see the frame was shot & sure enough when I got under the rails were filled with chunks & flakes. Someone had painted everything so it looked good from a distance but I'm pretty sure I could've pushed my index finger through some spots on the frame. Not the case with this one. If the engine & all check out & I was in the market I'd be on this one like stink on a pig

 

[Artemis]

it's actually really clean in person, looks worse in the photos though that one rust spot on the rear is substantial. I'm a little perplexed because I was certain the frame would be worse given the spots of body rust but other than the unknown area around the tc skid it's great. Unless it had a frame swap there's no chance this thing was subjected to a lot of salt or if it was it was well taken care of at the same time, the rails were empty. Looked clean top to bottom but I didn't pop the hood or really crawl underneath so it would certainly need a far more in depth going over by a mechanic, I'm just saying it's absolutely worth a closer look. It goes without saying that the price should be negotiated down too, but for seven grand given the OPs situation I'd find it hard to believe much better is out there.

I looked at a similar impact orange one over the winter for someone & as I was driving over I was hoping it wasn't that same one, if memory serves it was on the same used car lot. As I approached that one I could see the frame was shot & sure enough when I got under the rails were filled with chunks & flakes. Someone had painted everything so it looked good from a distance but I'm pretty sure I could've pushed my index finger through some spots on the frame. Not the case with this one. If the engine & all check out & I was in the market I'd be on this one like stink on a pig

That was awesome that you took the time to check it out

 

[JDS123]

it's actually really clean in person, looks worse in the photos though that one rust spot on the rear is substantial. I'm a little perplexed because I was certain the frame would be worse given the spots of body rust but other than the unknown area around the tc skid it's great. Unless it had a frame swap there's no chance this thing was subjected to a lot of salt or if it was it was well taken care of at the same time, the rails were empty. Looked clean top to bottom but I didn't pop the hood or really crawl underneath so it would certainly need a far more in depth going over by a mechanic, I'm just saying it's absolutely worth a closer look. It goes without saying that the price should be negotiated down too, but for seven grand given the OPs situation I'd find it hard to believe much better is out there.

I looked at a similar impact orange one over the winter for someone & as I was driving over I was hoping it wasn't that same one, if memory serves it was on the same used car lot. As I approached that one I could see the frame was shot & sure enough when I got under the rails were filled with chunks & flakes. Someone had painted everything so it looked good from a distance but I'm pretty sure I could've pushed my index finger through some spots on the frame. Not the case with this one. If the engine & all check out & I was in the market I'd be on this one like stink on a pig

Thats interesting. I would definitely check the Vin on the frame versus the vin on the dash (though I don't understand why someone would have frame swapped this Jeep...). Very interesting that the inside of the frame is good but the body is rusted out in the common places.... Usually the body is fine and the frame is rotted, like on my Jeep.

 

[Westtown Willy]

Thats interesting. I would definitely check the Vin on the frame versus the vin on the dash (though I don't understand why someone would have frame swapped this Jeep...). Very interesting that the inside of the frame is good but the body is rusted out in the common places.... Usually the body is fine and the frame is rotted, like on my Jeep.

Exactly, which is why I thought an up close look at the frame would be a train wreck, so it doesn't make a lotta sense thus the swap comment...

here's an example of what I'm talking about on the frame rail as it goes up behind the front tire, check out the rust on the brake line bracket & how it's screwed to a pristine frame, it didn't appear painted or sealed in any way, just smooth on both sides everywhere I checked. There's also some rust behind the frame. The second picture is part of the rail at the skid where you can see some surface rust. Assuming it's not too bad under the skid I'd wire wheel this, POR15 it & do Eastwood inside, I didn't check for drain holes but if not there I'd drill them out before hand. In the 6 or so spots I checked I didn't even feel any dirt/debris inside so there's not much flushing that would even need to be done before hand

* I don't have a lot of experience with body rust so I'm not sure how that really impacts the analysis

 

[JDS123]

Exactly, which is why I thought an up close look at the frame would be a train wreck, so it doesn't make a lotta sense thus the swap comment...

here's an example of what I'm talking about on the frame rail as it goes up behind the front tire, check out the rust on the brake line bracket & how it's screwed to a pristine frame, it didn't appear painted or sealed in any way, just smooth on both sides everywhere I checked. There's also some rust behind the frame. The second picture is part of the rail at the skid where you can see some surface rust. Assuming it's not too bad under the skid I'd wire wheel this, POR15 it & do Eastwood inside, I didn't check for drain holes but if not there I'd drill them out before hand. In the 6 or so spots I checked I didn't even feel any dirt/debris inside so there's not much flushing that would even need to be done before handView attachment 58357 View attachment 58358

Hmm, really makes me wonder if it was frame swapped (but frame swapping a stock TJ that you plan on selling...? I don't know). That really doesn't make a lot of sense. Unless someone meticulously washed out the frame, but never washed the outside of the Jeep, I don't understand how this is possible... I would find the vin on the frame and compare. Then I'd run a history check on this Jeep, mostly just out of curiosity...

 

[Artemis]

Hmm, really makes me wonder if it was frame swapped (but frame swapping a stock TJ that you plan on selling...? I don't know). That really doesn't make a lot of sense. Unless someone meticulously washed out the frame, but never washed the outside of the Jeep, I don't understand how this is possible... I would find the vin on the frame and compare. Then I'd run a history check on this Jeep, mostly just out of curiosity...

Unless, the original owner had plans for this Jeep but real life dictated otherwise.

 

[Chris]

Personally I wouldn't touch that thing. Way too much rust (and what looks to be rust hiding in other very shady places) for me to want to deal with. If you plan on keeping it for a short amount of time, no big deal. If you plan on keeping it for a long, long time, look for a rust free TJ (unless you don't mind a big project).

Just my 2 cents.

 

[luk4mud]

I am concluding that there is a market for sand state TJs in the east. Buy, ship make a few bucks, save our eastern brethren from having to buy rusty frames. Good TJs are plentiful and cheap here. Just looking at my local CL, there are currently 6 for sale with under 130k miles and cost less than 10k.

 

[JDS123]

I am concluding that there is a market for sand state TJs in the east. Buy, ship make a few bucks, save our eastern brethren from having to buy rusty frames. Good TJs are plentiful and cheap here. Just looking at my local CL, there are currently 6 for sale with under 130k miles and cost less than 10k.

There is a pretty big market for that. There are a few people who take Jeep parts from the South or Arizona and sell them up north as a business. I came across a few when I was looking for my new frame. I wish I could find the photo, but I saw one guy with a 3 car trailer full of about 20 TJ frames and 2 tubs from the South. He was selling them up in PA and probably making a fair bit doing so.

 

[AndyG]

Here's how much rust you want —-none.

Wait . Search Craigslist . Make calls , take a vacation and find one , do whatever to avoid rust .

A near perfect Jeep with 160,000 plus Miles is going to need all sorts of work likely ...front end parts , drive line , etc .. starting with one that is rusted is going to make investing more into it hard.

 

[TJ2]

Unless you love rusty tub, that sheetmetal is rusted and nasty. It will take a lot of fixing and IMO bondo is not a good fix. You have to know how to do sheetmetal tig welding to take that kind of jeep at that stage.

 

[Twowheelz]

I am in the Atlanta area and there are lots of rust free TJs down here and one of the guys that works with me is driving up to Pittsburgh for Thanksgiving. Just saying. Rust sucks and happy to help.