Dropping Dana 35 & bolting up Dana 44

[Jeepin’]

Anyone have a good video link that shows dropping axles and bolting up new ones? Specifically, 2005 TJ, replacing a rear Dana 35 with a Dana 44/3.73 and a front Dana 30 with a new Dana 30/3.73
My apologies if this is the wrong forum for this.
Thanks in advance...

 

[Chris]

I haven't looked on YouTube, but I imagine there has to be a video there. There really isn't much to it, it's a pretty easy swap, especially if you have an extra set of hands.

 

[jazngab]

I’d be interested in seeing this as well. I casually looked on google and YouTube and surprisingly I don’t believe there is a how to video, at least one that I could find

 

[Jeepin’]

I’d be interested in seeing this as well. I casually looked on google and YouTube and surprisingly I don’t believe there is a how to video, at least one that I could find

Yeah, I looked too and was surprised that I couldn’t find one specific to my model. Guess I’ll keep looking. Apparently there’s not much to it, but I just don’t want to screw anything up.

 

[Jay P]

I just did mine and I’m far from being mechanically inclined as most Jeep owners seem to be. I can mess up most things somehow. Just take your time and check everything 5 times like I did. Definitely try and get a helper. I had zero help and it was a pain, especially when I needed a tool that was not at arms reach. If I can do it, most others can do it.


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[Jack72]

Not exactly what you’re asking for but it’s a very simple how to video on removing a Dana 44 rear axle. For a bolt on swap it should be somewhat helpful.


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[Flivver250]

By the time you have removed your current differential, you will be expert at reinstalling a compatible replacement. Make sure you end up identical gearing front and rear. 4wd could be quite entertaining if you get that wrong. That would be a cool video if on ice. Seriously, nothing hidden when it comes to fasteners.

 

[Jeepin’]

Not exactly what you’re asking for but it’s a very simple how to video on removing a Dana 44 rear axle. For a bolt on swap it should be somewhat helpful.


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This helps. Thanks!

 

[Jeepin’]

By the time you have removed your current differential, you will be expert at reinstalling a compatible replacement. Make sure you end up identical gearing front and rear. 4wd could be quite entertaining if you get that wrong. That would be a cool video if on ice. Seriously, nothing hidden when it comes to fasteners.

Thanks! Yeah, I’ve scored a great deal on a set from a forum member here. Dropping a Dana 35/3.07 rear and Dana 30/3.07 front to bolt up a Dana 44/3.73 rear and Dana 30/3.73 front. I just figured it would be easier to drop both and bolt up replacement assemblies than it would be to re-gear the front from 3.07 to 3.73, especially since I got a great deal on a pair with matching gears.

 

[Flivver250]

While they are on the bench it is a great time to freshen them up. Seals, bearings, axle U-Joints and ball joints. Not particularly hard or expensive to do. I am a firm believer in preventive maintenance. It is the old soldier in me. Replace wear items before repair is required. I love new parts. New parts are the distinction between an old jalopy and a classic. I might even go nuts and paint them too.

 

[jazngab]

By the time you have removed your current differential, you will be expert at reinstalling a compatible replacement. Make sure you end up identical gearing front and rear. 4wd could be quite entertaining if you get that wrong. That would be a cool video if on ice. Seriously, nothing hidden when it comes to fasteners.

I’m planning to have the Dana 44 regeared and have it sit until I’m ready to install. Then once installed drive it with mismatching gears (no 4wd obviously) until I save up to regear the front. That way I can split up and offset the costs of regearing and buying the Dana 44 all at once.

 

[Jeepin’]

While they are on the bench it is a great time to freshen them up. Seals, bearings, axle U-Joints and ball joints. Not particularly hard or expensive to do. I am a firm believer in preventive maintenance. It is the old soldier in me. Replace wear items before repair is required. I love new parts. New parts are the distinction between an old jalopy and a classic. I might even go nuts and paint them too.

Any advice on cleaning and coating products to use?

 

[Andy Maurer]

Dropping a Dana 35/3.07 rear and Dana 30/3.07 front to bolt up a Dana 44/3.73 rear and Dana 30/3.73 front.

I just finished the same job, you will be happy with the gain from 3.07 to 3.73. A couple things I learned:

* I had to get new rear brake lines as I could not get the piece shown below out of the old drum housing without snapping off the brackets which allow it to click into the drum:

*Rusted bolts are a pain in the a**, Kroil/PB Blaster is your friend. Use it early and often, I started spraying all bolts a week before I planned on doing the job and it helped a bunch. Even with this there was still a good amount of cursing involved.

* Make sure you have an extra floor jack when installing the new axles, you may need to lift one side when trying to get a control arm to line up in order to get the bolt started

Good luck!

 

[jazngab]

Any advice on cleaning and coating products to use?

I would wire brush any rust and use a degreaser spray to clean up. Por15 can be used for rust spots or rustoleum rust reformer. Use a self etching primer spray and then paint with a few coats of an acrylic enamel spray.

 

[Jeepin’]

Not exactly what you’re asking for but it’s a very simple how to video on removing a Dana 44 rear axle. For a bolt on swap it should be somewhat helpful.


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Love the very end! :uzi:

 

[Flivver250]

I would wire brush any rust and use a degreaser spray to clean up. Por15 can be used for rust spots or rustoleum rust reformer. Use a self etching primer spray and then paint with a few coats of an acrylic enamel spray.

I'm also a big fan of a pressure washer and dishwashing liquid with elbow grease.

 

[jazngab]

I just finished the same job, you will be happy with the gain from 3.07 to 3.73. A couple things I learned:

* I had to get new rear brake lines as I could not get the piece shown below out of the old drum housing without snapping off the brackets which allow it to click into the drum:

View attachment 73709

*Rusted bolts are a pain in the a**, Kroil/PB Blaster is your friend. Use it early and often, I started spraying all bolts a week before I planned on doing the job and it helped a bunch. Even with this there was still a good amount of cursing involved.

* Make sure you have an extra floor jack when installing the new axles, you may need to lift one side when trying to get a control arm to line up in order to get the bolt started

Good luck!

Did you use an impact wrench to remove mostly of those rusted bolts?

 

[Andy Maurer]

Did you use an impact wrench to remove mostly of those rusted bolts?

No, but only because I don't own one. Normal socket wrench with a cheater bar.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

No, but only because I don't own one. Normal socket wrench with a cheater bar.

Yes but if the the hardware is rusty, definitely spray the nuts/bolts several times with a good penetrant before attempting to remove them. Giving the hardware a day or two for the penetrant to work its way in is recommended. Good penetrants include Kroil, Liquid Wrench, and Break-Free. Don't bother trying WD-40 which is not a penetrant and is ineffective with anything that is really seized or corroded.

 

[JMT]

I did a rear Dana 35 to Dana 44 swap last weekend. It wasn't bad. Just take your time, and I was able to get the Parking Brake out of the bracket without breaking any of the retaining clips. It took awhile, I thought later you might try using a zip tie around the three retaining clips, which may get it tight enough to slide out. As it was I could get two out and then had to hold the cable at an angle till I could slip a screwdriver in and pop the third one and walla. When you put it all back together, leave everything loose until you get it back on the ground to torque down to spec. That will help things go together easier and also the torquing should be done on the ground...Be patient. You've got two to do. Divide it up so you don't kill yourself. Always chock your wheels and have failsafes in place. Better safe than sorry.