Jeepsy Driver

New Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2023
Messages
12
Location
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
If this has already been discussed and I've just failed to find the post I'd love a link.
So, Dana 44 front axles are actually quite affordable in the US especially considering their rarity (im just looking at ebay as a reference) but shipping to the UAE where I live is kind of expensive, at least in comparison to my little brain wave here.

Used Dana 44 rears here a dime a dozen as we never got a Dana 35 option and cost a fraction of what Dana 44 fronts cost, could I perhaps buy a Dana 44 rear, do a bit of chopping and weld the Dana 44 rear pumpkin the Dana 30 axle tubes and celebrate a victory?

I've seen large lift builds where people have cut the pumpkins off and turned the diffs up to adjust their pinion angle without severely contorting the coil springs (akin to this video on DirtLifestyle's channel:
), does that make sense to do with the Dana 30 + Dana 44 rear thing?

Are the tubes the same diameter?
Will I run into R&P issues?
Can I then buy a set of Dana 44 front axle shafts?
What should I pay attention to when doing the whole welding thing?
Is it worth adjusting the front pinion angle in the process?
 
Let me say I have absolutely ZERO knowledge on whether or not this would be possible, feasible, or sensible. But the thought is interesting and I'm curious to see what others know and say.

Why are you trying to go with the front 44? The general consensus being that a TJ front 44 is essentially a Dana 30 with a different center section, meaning the weaker C's and tubes remain. Other than slightly larger ring and pinion, I'm not sure that the strength gain would be there. A Dana 30 can be reliably built to handle 35's and beyond that, most will recommend to skip a 44 and jump to a 60 for the cost vs. strength.
 
If this has already been discussed and I've just failed to find the post I'd love a link.
So, Dana 44 front axles are actually quite affordable in the US especially considering their rarity (im just looking at ebay as a reference) but shipping to the UAE where I live is kind of expensive, at least in comparison to my little brain wave here.

Used Dana 44 rears here a dime a dozen as we never got a Dana 35 option and cost a fraction of what Dana 44 fronts cost, could I perhaps buy a Dana 44 rear, do a bit of chopping and weld the Dana 44 rear pumpkin the Dana 30 axle tubes and celebrate a victory?

I've seen large lift builds where people have cut the pumpkins off and turned the diffs up to adjust their pinion angle without severely contorting the coil springs (akin to this video on DirtLifestyle's channel:
), does that make sense to do with the Dana 30 + Dana 44 rear thing?

Are the tubes the same diameter?
No, rear is larger by a small amount. You best bet is to remove the tube from the center section. It will take some shenanigans after that to get a new one machined up out of larger stock to fit into the pumpkin and opened internally to slide a bit of the long side into. Probably looking at 3" x 3/8" wall to have enough for both. The long side can use 3" x .250 wall.
Will I run into R&P issues?
No, the TJ Rubi front and rear use the same set of gears.
Can I then buy a set of Dana 44 front axle shafts?
Yes
What should I pay attention to when doing the whole welding thing?
You are going to have to mow off the brackets on the short side, be careful getting them back on and use a set of Dana 44 stock shafts to set the side to side location of the center section.
Is it worth adjusting the front pinion angle in the process?
Yes, qualified by how much lift you plan to run. I'd lay all that out first and calculate the new pinion angle.
 
Let me say I have absolutely ZERO knowledge on whether or not this would be possible, feasible, or sensible. But the thought is interesting and I'm curious to see what others know and say.

Why are you trying to go with the front 44? The general consensus being that a TJ front 44 is essentially a Dana 30 with a different center section, meaning the weaker C's and tubes remain. Other than slightly larger ring and pinion, I'm not sure that the strength gain would be there. A Dana 30 can be reliably built to handle 35's and beyond that, most will recommend to skip a 44 and jump to a 60 for the cost vs. strength.

I see, so really the only advantage would be the larger pool of gearing and locker options? Either way if it's no better than throwing chromoly shafts in there I could just go in that direction. Most of our driving here is in the desert and I've already cracked a few control arms launching the TJ off dunes so though I'd try to get ahead of it somewhat.
 
No, rear is larger by a small amount. You best bet is to remove the tube from the center section. It will take some shenanigans after that to get a new one machined up out of larger stock to fit into the pumpkin and opened internally to slide a bit of the long side into. Probably looking at 3" x 3/8" wall to have enough for both. The long side can use 3" x .250 wall.

No, the TJ Rubi front and rear use the same set of gears.

Yes

You are going to have to mow off the brackets on the short side, be careful getting them back on and use a set of Dana 44 stock shafts to set the side to side location of the center section.

Yes, qualified by how much lift you plan to run. I'd lay all that out first and calculate the new pinion angle.

Really appreciate the response dude! Between this and @bbaldwin237's comments I think it's clear that this really isn't worth it especially since my plan is to keep the TJ at 2" of lift and use highline fenders to clear a set of 33" tyres, Chromoly shafts pending.

On a similar note though, is the Dana 30 and Dana 44 combo worth pilfering off a JK? Sure cutting and welding new brackets on also a thing here but im just looking at it from an axle width perspective? Dana 60s are much harder to come by here while JK axles are pretty plentiful thanks to all the roll overs we get here.